1108873279A Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

The numbers on the metal plates were the JC Penney numbers - that no one recognizes. I eventually found the model number inside the timer case on a printed schematic. I started by disassembling whatever metal covers were removable by finding sheet metal screws and unscrewing them. If you pull on the sheet metal covers, you can find where they are connected to the frame. Eventually, I found that both the heating element was broken and the thermostat was fried. It took a while looking at various websites to find the proper parts. It's all OK now.

Turn off Gas, unplug electric cord, remove rear cover, remove two screws holding the lint trap to the top, raise top flip[ping to the back supporting it not to damage wiring, remove bottom front cover, remove door springs, remove front cover, disengage belt tensioner, remove drum. unclip right side roller and remove, unbolt left wheel mount from the rear and the bracket in the front, remove clips or cut off (new ones come with new clips). clean the wheel shafts, light sanding if needed, apply light coat of lithium grease. replace wheels and reassemble dryer in the reverse order from disassemble. roll drum by hand after front back on to ensure it rolls without catching. Finish and test.

I follow the instructions from the video you guys show the only issue is putting back the tensioner in place but my brother leaves next door and help me.

just like the guy in the video. It was easy to folow his instructions, and the best thing of all i could stop the video if I had a question and then resume!

replaced internal dryer filter housing

Replaced roller. Very simple. Dryer is the easiest appliance to repair. Only a few parts keep a dryer working

It was very easy to install the new parts successfully thanku parts select I will always keep using your business the representative was so helpful and understanding my problem I wish I could remember his name he was outstanding and a 100 thumbs up to him

unplugged power, slide unit away from wall, removed bottom front cover, rear sheetmetal cover, tilted front of unit to remove roller outboard support (sheetmetal screw from bottom of dryer). Removed shaft bolt from rear of dryer which released roller assembly. Remove speed nut from old roller assembly to remove outboard support arm, mounted new roller to new shaft placed triangle clips (one each side of roller), mounted outboard support to front of new shaft and completed re-assembly (reverse order of disaasembly).

lifted top section of dryer
removed front dryer panel
removed drum belt and tensioner
removed both drum rollers
cleaned both roller axles
installed new rollers
reassembled remainder of dryer
if you are at all mechanically inclined, it is a simple job

Disassembled dryer, removed tumbler, replaced drum support rollers

After identfying that the problem was due to a damaged drum support roller, I decided to replace the bad roller instead of replacing the dyer itself.

The first thing was to remove the front cover
and the front panels to expose the drum. (Only a few screws hold them in place.) Next, the drum was removed by first releasing the belt from the motor pulley and tensioner, and then pulling the drum straight out.

At this point the two rollers would be exposed. The triangular plastic retaining locks were removed by slightly prying them off. The old rollers were then removed and replaced.

Before putting everything back, this was a good time to vacuum all the accumulated lint inside, especially the lint that had accumulated around the motor assembly and the fire box.

(A pleasant surprise: I found a lot of coins inside the unit, enough to recoup half of what I spent for the new rollers.)

the tube when spinning the tub would shake so bad the washer would walk away from the wall but it will not happen anymore since I put the new spring on it runs great and this is not my first rodeo. Removed the outer part to timer controls then removed two screws then shell in front came off the body

Replaced hinge switch. Still no spin cycle. Noticed hinge bearing cracked & if hinge forced into switch, spin activated. Ordered new hinge bearings.Spin cycle still didn't engage. On further examination, observed that hinge was bent. Straightened hinge & worked like a charm. Didn't really need new switch or bearings. NOTE : Avoid having washer door bang shut.Took longer than expected, but each procedure was simple.

After reading everyone elses stories, I purchased all new springs(5), new spring brackets(one of mine was rusted really badly)and all new wear pads(two sets of 3pcs each). The rusted spring bracket was the most time consuming as the screw was rusted into the bracked so I had to drill it out. Other than that, the actual spring replacement was easy. Took maybe 10 minutes. The wear pads were another story. I'm a pretty good mechanic and I had a bit of a struggle getting the old pads out. I used a long, flat head screwdriver to pry them out. Once they were out the new ones weren't too tough to get back in. Took about 20 minutes all together. I stongly recommend watching the video on removing the washer cabinet first. It will save you some time. Acutally, watch the videos on all of the parts to simplify the process. Oh and by the way, all of my washer problems are gone. Well worth my time and $70 in parts. Good web site!

Used the video to remove the top and front. Removed the drum. Removed the spindle through the whole next to the spindle. Vacuumed a ton of lint in the dryer and vent pipe. Reassembled in reverse order. Easy repair and a good time to clean the lint.