1108873279A Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

It was actually much easier than I expected. The worst part was dealing with the gear oil as I drained it to clean out the plastic pieces that came off the gear. To see how to fix things like this, I went to Google, enter my model and what the problem was and watched a repairman do it. It seemed easy and it was.

There are youtube vids on how to get the thing open. I just wish I'd known the following: 1.remove agitator BEFORE opening the unit up and leaning it back (much easier to work inside the tube with it upright). 2. be aware that a free-floating part known as the skate plate can dislodge while the unit is on it's side/back. It is a generally triangular piece of flat-ish metal between the base of the tub and the top of the drive-train chassis. If it doesn't line up properly after you replace the parts you're going to get a noisy, clanking spin cycle the next time you run the thing (as I discovered).

Removed the control panel and the cabanit. Then removed the adjutatior . Removed the motor and gear box slid the old shaft out and put the new one in put back together. Took about one hour .

Followed procedures in Parts Select web site video

After removing the front of the dryer it was evident that the blower boss had broken where the motor shaft comes through and is attached. I removed a few more parts to make the blower more accessible and removed it. I then machined a new boss and attached it to the blower and reinstalled it.I then did a quick continuity check on the three thermostats since the dryer was already apart.I discovered one was faulty and ordered a new one from you.That repair took all of five minutes.The irony of the whole thing is that while I was ordering the thermostat from you,I asked out of curiosity,if the blower was still available. As it turns out it still is but the new machined part worked out great and the dryer was back up and running in no time.

Thanks again,
Dave

removed two screws from filter chute,raised top of dryer and removed front panel,lifted drum out,replace both rollers,replaced drum,reset belt tensioner replace front panel,lowered top,put screws back into filter chute.

I watched your repair video and followed what the repair man said and did, it was a snap! I needed my dryer fast so decided to do it myself. I am a 65 year old female and petite, so I say if I can do it anyone can. Your video was the key to my sucess.

Drum support roller bearrings went out. Had to replace drum support rollers! It's like a new dryer now!!

I made it very difficult. I didn't research the repair. My back is old. It's easier if you just You Tube a video. The top roller you have to take drum completely out. The bottom one, The one that failed for me, you can actually do it without taking anything apart. Access it at bottom back, two holes. I do not have small hands, it would have been easier. Channel Locks inside, 9/16th socket outside. That will loosen main axle. Then use short screwdriver or socket driver on small bracket connected to bottom of unit. Mine had one screw holding it in. Easy bottom fix. I don't really recommend replacing top till it needs it. You can only buy them by the pair too. You will be ready when time comes. I found top roller didn't actually need replacing, did it cause I had it all apart. Don't fix if not broke, right? Trust, BUT, Verify. Smaller hands, would have helped me. All I got.

used your video instructions were great a great tool to repair. know wonder the maytag man is not busy ha ha .

Not knowing exactly what needed to be replaced I used the in-site questionnaire and followed through to problem and then ordered the first two items suggestions. Turned out the Heating Element Connection Wire Kit was redundant and not needed as the Cycling Thermostat included two such wire kits. I watched the video on the site and that gave me a fairly good idea how to proceed. I removed the back panel, lot of small screws, and then the Thermostat was easy to see. There are two similar looking parts but after closer look only one matched the new thermostat. Super easy, just remove wires and old thermostat and replace with new item and then before actually reinstalling back panel I put a load of damp clothes to dry. Half hour later...Wallaaa...problem resolved. Good luck with your fix. Oh, there is a sheet referencing to set the new thermostat if needed to a certain limit, however using old thermostat with its embedded model # found that factory setting for new one was fine. So, no need to reset.

My husband changed the part but part select was very helpful. With their free repair help site it made repairing a breeze! We will use parts select again and again. I did order all the parts we might have needed and only needed one. Now I will return the others.

Removed the transition panel in the front. Removed the washer's rear cover bolts and slid washer cover forward enough to be able to lift it a bit. Disconnected the wires. Removed wiring clips, unscrewed switch from cover. Replaced lid switch and reassembled.

Removed front and back covers on dryer, screws on top and down one side to spread cabinet to remove drum,removed blower cover to get access to shaft nut on that side. The other is accessible. I found that both shafts can bethe longer of the two that were sent. The shorter shaft is too short and needed to be modified to let the roller come outward to lay in the grove in the drum. I will get a longer shaft and replace it.

Found the assembly manual page for that model on your site, disassembled the washer top, replaced the bad switch, re-assembled, tested the washer [worked perfectly], and I was done. Couldn't have gone any smoother or quicker if I had planned it. This is the second repair that I have used PartSelect. Their parts are competitively priced and I am still amazed at the shipping transit time. I paced the order on Monday nite at 9PM PST, and I have it Wednesday AM, so 1 day, coast to coast. Keep up the great work, PartSelect !!!!