1108873279A Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

ordered wrong limit switch had to reorder right switch and decided to replace the heater element as well. works fine now

Removed back cover of entire dryer.The thermostat was accessible from that point(Just as diagram showed), removed two wires from thermostat, removed thermostat & replaced with new thermostat & plugged 2 wires back in just as instructions indicated. Very simple,15 minute job. I will certainly use again for any appliance repairs.

removed front panel and drum and replaced drum support rollers

Reviewed video on how to disassemble appliance by removing drum. Removed both rollers, replaced both rollers, installed drum with new belt, test ran it w/o gas attached, so quiet a baby can sleep beside it.

I watched the video on this site and it went exactly as described, fixed it and it sounds like a new dryer. Was going to junk it, glad I didn't!

follow the vidio. removed lint screen. removed screws securning the lint trap guide. used to disconect the two clips honding the top cover and lifted it up and secured it as not to drop down. removed two screws at top of front paned and removed it. took out drumb. took off the two rollers and remounted the drumb and belt. replaced front panel and two screws. lowered top panell and two screws. replaced lint trap. turned on to see is noise stoped and it had. done

By following the repair video available, I took off the top and front panel of my dryer, removed the drum, removed the old drum support rollers, vacuumed out the inside of the dryer (so much lint!), replaced the drum support rollers, and put the dryer back together. Dryer runs like brand new and is very quiet. Repair was extremely easy to do. Got the replacement parts in about 2 business days. PartSelect repair videos make the repair easy too! Lots of satisfaction for a girl to repair her own dryer!

We found great video instructions via youtube.com to give us an idea to what might be the problem even before we opened the dryer. Then we opened the dryer top and front door and then removed the belt and drum. We then saw that one of the drum wheels was worn and the rubber part of the wheel was warped off. Once we saw what part we needed we ordered them through PartSelect.com since their wonderful instructions helped us out. Once we received the part we easily removed the old drum wheels and installed the new ones...super easy! Then we had to put the drum back in with the belt. The only "difficult" part was looping the belt around the motor because there was a lot of tension. Once that was set we just put the door back on and then the top! I guess the only snags we had during the process was where exactly to remove screws or pry open certain places b/c every dryer is a little different. I just advice people to really look at their dryer and think about how it is held together instead of just unscrewing everything. We are so glad we found the partselect.com instructions via YouTube.com. We were ready to buy a new dryer but fixing the dryer ended up only costing us $30! Our dryer is so quiet now, just like it is brand new.

Removed top and front of dryer. Removed drum. Removed old rollers from spindles. Installed new rollers and new retainer triangles. Replaced drum. Re-installed front and top.

Disconnected electrical and then water inputs on the rear of the cabinet. Tipped the machine onto its front. Found that a spring was unhooked and dangling from a bracket. I searched for the location to secure the spring and found a hole on the rear base of the cabinet rusted through. I drilled another mounting hole nearby, Since the original spring had also broke, I replaced it with a new one from PartSelect, securing it between its bracket and the new retaining hole. Returned the machine to its upright position, reconnected water input lines, then its electrical. The machine works fine once again.

1) Using a Phillips head screwdriver, the two screws retaining the hinge pin to the lid were removed. 2) Remove hinge pin and tilt lid slightly to gain access to bushing hole. 3)Install new bushing in hole. 4)Reposition lid. Insert hinge pin through lid and into bushing. 5)Reinstall hinge pin retaining screws and tighten.

Repair went fine. Really easy for the most part. Unfortunately it didn't solve my problem. Great place to get parts though. I'm going to continue my search for the source of the noise

I consulted the internet and found Part Select and use online repairman to diagnose the problem and found the roller solution with the parts, video and parts illustration. Sure enough, the left roller hole was worn and egg shaped. I ordered the parts on a Wednesday afternoon. While I waited, I got all the lint from the bottom pan, motor, and around the burner cleaned out and ready for the new parts. The parts arrived Friday morning and I installed them and put the dryer back together before noon. The dryer works and sounds like a new machine. Now I am ready to attack the squeaky fan motor in the freezer compartment of our refrig.

I followed the instructions on the Part Select website for drum support rollers and shaft. The videos were great! (There wasn't one for the right side shaft but I could extrapolate from the other instructions.) The hardest part for me was releasing the dryer top - the video made it look so easy but it took me a long time to get the little clips to release with the putty knife. Also, tightening the new right side shaft required the help of another person as my arms are not long enough to hold the shaft with pliers while I tightened the nut in the back of the dryer (and I did have to remove the back cover for this shaft). I would recommend to anyone even a little bit handy to attempt a repair following part select's videos.

Very old washing machine began to make a horrible noise and agitator would attempt to agitate during spin cycle. Eventually determined that the problem was in the transmission. The way the transmission works is that when the motor runs in one direction a metal fork pushes on a cam mechanism and lifts a spring loaded gear on the agitator shaft from the gears that make it move, putting it in neutral so that it can spin freely with the basket in the spin cycle. When the motor runs the other way the same fork pulls on the cam and drops the gear down so that it engages with the agitator mechanism. The problem was that the plastic cam pieces on the base of the shaft had worn down to the point where they where not fully lifting the gear clear and it was partially engaging with the drive mechanism. Repair was relatively straight forward except the YouTube video that I was using showed the parts on upside down. All the other transmission parts are labeled with TOP on one side but oddly the cam pieces are not marked. For reference the U shaped protrusion on the cam parts goes on the top of the assembly, not the bottom. All in all it took me about 12 hours to do this fix, but at least 10 of that was simply trying to figure out how the mechanism worked and tracking down the problem. Be sure to refill the transmission case and use some RTV sealant to seal the cover back on when you are done, just like you would for an oil pan on an engine.