WTW5000DW2 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

I did the repair just as the video showed, and had no problems at all.
the hardest thing I had to do was to move the washer out to where I could get to the back of the machine.
Due to the help of the sales rep and the video the repair was very easy

Thanks
Louis

The video you sent me was very helpful told me the exact tools I needed and how to do it.
Thank you

Cold and hot water valve .easy as pie.

Following what the video shows how that they send with your part email, confirmation or receipt!! Easy Peasy!!

I unscrewed the top panel of the washer. I lifted up the top and used the pint scrapper to loosen up the lid switch and slid it out. I pulled the switch wiring harness out of the rear top of the washer. I slid the new lid switch and wiring harness back through the opening and secured the switch in place. Screwed it back in place. Took less than 15 minutes. I followed the instructions on the video, easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Our 5 year old Kenmore washing machine broke. The first symptom was that the clothes would come out completely wet. This was due to no spin cycle. The second symptom was that the washing machine had little to no agitation. The lid still locked shut, there was no odor, and you could hear the machine running.

In the event a machine does not agitate or spin, the diagnostics on this website will lead you to believe that drive hub assembly or shift actuator is the problem. The drive hub assembly is by far the more common repair (the pieces are made of plastic and are designed to wear out). If you are torn, go with the drive hub kit repair. That's what it was.

There were some surprises after carefully watching the how to video. First, the agitator in my machine was very tall and required a socket wrench extension to reach the drive hub nut. This will require two sets of hands. Second, the drive hub nut was stuck to the point where I nearly gave up. WD-40 and degreaser did not work to loosen. I ended up pouring a half teaspoon of powdered soap onto the stuck nut to get more grip on the nut. This, along with two sets of hands, got it loose. Third, calibrating machine was barely touched on in the video but this is extremely difficult, the instructions that come with the part were insufficient, and the videos on the internet are not that good. In the end, I'm not sure that the machine ever calibrated. In essence, the machine is re-calibrated by turning the switch in a specific sequence of right to left. Lights are then supposed to flash. This never did anything. I ended up opening and shutting the lid 10 times in 10 seconds as this was allegedly a way to recalibrate.

Note: 2018 and later washing machines suck because of California and the federal government rules and pressure to make them "green". Well, they don't work that well anymore as a result. Keep this in mind when you vote.

Thought we needed a new shift actuator but after getting the parts and starting the replacement noticed the capacitor had come loose and was banging around under the washer. Found there was a little wire to the shift actuator that was cut probable from the capacitor being loose. spliced the wire back together and replaced the capacitor but not the shift actuator and its been working great. was an easy fix and easy to get to. Didn't need the maytag man when we can get parts from here.

I watched the supplied video when I purchased the parts

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

see you tube on how too

Turn off the water at both the cold and hot. May need an bucket to catch any water left in the lines. Then unplug the washer to kill power of course...Taking off the 10 or so small screws in the back metal cover will get you started. The tricky part is getting the clips off the back top where the knobs are. You will have 2 plastic clips and 2 metal clips, 1 on each side. Take a flat head and ease them up and out....careful not to break them! You can pull the whole control panel away from your work area. Once you have full accuses to the valves its self, it is held in by 2 screw on the top inside a slot. You can now unplug the pigtail harness. Repeat the process in reverse to get it back together and the job is complete. 30 to 45 minutes Max.

screw driver and a rachet and socket took it off and put the new one on . no problem follow the direction that comes with it .

had to change out wiring harness was not compatible

I watched the instructions on line, and followed them. Completed the parts change with out any problems, but that wasn't everything I had to do to make the washer to work again. I had to clear all the fault codes that were on the machine. Then the washer started working in all the cycles.

I have a Kenmore he 500 series washer that would not get out of the sensing mode. Googled the problem. It let me know it could be the water inlet valve. So I ordered the valve through Part select (mailed to me with in days of ordering) Had a towel and small bowl for nuts and screws. Shut off water to washer, disconnected hoses, used screwdriver and socket wrench to unscrew the back of washer (since it was my first time to ever do something like this on my own, I took pictures to make sure everything went back in place) replaced valve. It was an easy connection. Washer works great