WTW5000DW2 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Pop center cover off wash plate. Remove bolt. Lift off washplate. Slide retainer off with screwdriver and hammer. Slide new retainer on. Replace washplate.

Removed old one (2 screws) slid in place and screwed in.

Take the old one out and put a new one in

removed shield and pully nut and replaced shifter pulley and belt.
rolled it around several times to see how it stayed on or not, it stayed
. I replaced the new shield put the washer upright and tested fine.

Removed two screws to remove guard. Two screws to remove another part with wires. Pulley nut was already missing. Component was twist locking tabs.

Getting to the actual hub is a bit difficult as it involves removing the accetuator and takes some time and patience, but when I tried to replace with a new hub, I found that the screws were stripped, so PartSelect walked me through the ordering process and helped me choose the exact size screws that I needed. Parts came quickly...I already had the hub waiting to be secured and the screws tightened easily. (We had tried using a similar size, but you REALLY need the whirlpool screws that go in there) No more spinning problems, and the machine is not jumping around anymore. Works just like before. This particular machine has to have this part replaced at least twice a year (luckily it's cheap),but saves us from having to buy a whole new machine. My son also told me that since I replace the part so often, best to replace the screws every other time as well.

Royal pain getting the wash plate off. I'm 6 foot 215 lbs with muscular arms( beer belly too) and I could not get it to come off. Put hay bail twine around the edge and pulled up so hard the entire machine came off the ground. Luckily I am married. Yep I pulled one end of the string and her the other and it flew off. Part select was $10 cheaper than whirlpool and was a perfect match. I might order another to have because like stated earlier I'm married. She is married to me and the washer and dryer.

Part fixed it perfectly.

I figured out through the process of elimination that the problem was the rubber plunger that the solenoid opens and closes. I couldn’t fix just the plunger so I replaced the whole water inlet valve and the cold water worked perfectly after that. Even though it was a little tough to diagnose the problem it was very easy to replace the part once I found out what it was that was wrong.

We replaced the gear casing, actuator, splutch and belt, but the grinding continued. It continued with the tub out, with a different motor, we basically rebuilt the internals of the washer, but still it grinds. Everything was recalibrated. No noise when you hand turn the shaft, or motor. Only the splutch when the actuator switch is disengaged and in the spin cycle. It is washing fine, but very loud.

remove basket and replace drive hub kit

Per the instructions on the website, I:
1. Disconnected AC Power, turned off the water supply and disconnected the water and drain hoses from the rear of the washer.
2. Laid the washer front side down to access the bottom of the washer.
3. Remove the Pulley Guard ( 2 nuts.)
4. Removed the Shift Actuator Assembly (2 philips screws.)
5. Disconnected the electrical connector from the assembly.
6. Remove faulty Actuator and replace with replacement part.
7. Install the Pulley cover lift washer upright, reconnect water supply hoses and drain tubing, plug washer in and tested.

Problem is resolved, saved almost $250 by doing it myself!

Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.

Trying to follow the instructions according to the video was easy enough until the part where I had to remove the control panel for access to the screws holding the inlet valve. I don't have a putty knife, so I had a bit of trouble trying to remove the panel. I found another way. There are screws on the left and right sides which hold the control panel to the side pieces holding it to the body. If you remove the screws and use a pick or flathead screwdriver to carefully pull up on the tabs below the screws while gently pulling the control panel away, it will easily pop off with a rotational movement. The panel is centered into its location via two plastic pins molded into the side panels, so be aware of them and try to avoid breaking them. They'll help you get the panel properly positioned during reassembly, which is simple. You'll see all this easily if you take the time and look. Don't be in a rush. To reassemble, line up the panel with the plastic pins and rotate it into position. The tabs slide easily into position and lock the panel into place. Just don't forget to reinstall the screws. Removing the panel in this manner added a bit of time to the repair, but not a lot. It's still a fast repair overall. Everything else was exactly like in the video. Well, almost. I had no difficulty whatsoever with sliding the new valve into place. But once the job was done the sounds coming from the washer during the filling stages ceased. Turns out the screens in the inlet valve were getting stopped up with lime.

followed the instructions on the video, very easy install