MAH8700AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

this is a front load washer, removed a small access plate from the back of the washer, removed the old pump and install the new one

found diagrham on line, located parts needed , orded,replaced when arrived a few days later.

Purchased the pump from PartSelect after reading other reviews and let me tell you....it works great now. Way cheaper than hiring a repairman.

I removed the back service panel and checked the drain hose for any debris and checked the connection from the tub basin to the drain pump. I then check the drain pump and noticed the impeller blades were a bit worn. After the new drain pump arrived, I did have to swap the old intake housing with the new one in order for the whole thing to mount to the shock-absorbing mounting plate. Reconnected both hoses and the electrical connection and everything ran great!

Installed dampners with a little trouble because of location on machine. But turned out not to be the problem. Machine still shakes and move. Looking for for another reason for shaking. Replacing dampners would be a "do it yourself project" for most people.

We followed another very helpful repair story. Unplug machine. Unscrew top back screws, remove top of washer. Reach inside from the top in the front of the machine. Remove screws holding latch in place, unplug the three plugs attached to latch. Replace with new door latch, screw it in place, replug the three plugs, put top of machine back on, replace screws on back and your'e done! Works great! Job made easy thanks to others helpfulness!

It is very easy. Unplug from the wall. Take out the two screws from the back that holds on the top panel. Unscrew the three screws inside the door by the latch. Reach inside the washer from the top and unplug the three plugs on the latch part. Then plug in the new part , put the three screws back in. Then put the top panel on. Plug in and magic. It works!

I followed the guy on the video. The only parts that were tough was having the right tools and having enough space to put the new part in. The part was only 70 dollars and I was so proud that I could do it. I am not very handy so if I can do it then anyone can. Plus I saved some money!

I ordered the pump because we have 3 kids and laundry piles up. The pump was not the issue, because it would drain in rinse, but not during spin... The computer would have been a $330 part. Not sure the issue, but my wife wanted a new dryer so we replaced the washer at the same time. I didn't use the part. The website was really easy to order and it got here fast.

The washer tech manual stated to: 1) remove the top, 2) control console, 3) front below the door (front load washer), 4) remove the retaining wire, 5) pull back the rubber bellows, 6) remove the three screws and remove the door latch/lock assembly. I discovered that steps 1 through 3 are not required to replace the assembly. Installation is the reverse of steps 4 through 6. That was easy. The difficult part was figuring out how to reset the pressure switch so the drain pump would not start every time you reconnected to the power supply (pressure switch thinks the washer still contains water). With the power disconnected, I disconnected the pressure switch from the central control unit. Then I reconnected the power supply and pressure switch. That reset the pressure switch solved the problem with the drain pump. Washer works fine now.

My husband removed the water heater element. It was kinda an ordeal. Just glad it's done and fixed, relized how much I love to hate laundry.

Checked owners manual for diagnostics. Pointed to door lock mechanism, so we replaced. didnt work. Went online to Just Answers.com, chatted with pro named Mike(for the fee of $25) and without getting full description, he told me to replace pressure sensor. Bought one here for $50, replaced it, and still the problem lingered. Called a real Technician to the house, for $90, and he spent 4 minutes looking and tapping, and voilla, it worked. Turns out it was a stuck relay on the control board, and the tapping loosened it. He told me I may have trouble with it in the future. If so, I would buy one here. Thanks

first of all, I am not at all handy, so that fact that I could do this at all is pretty amazing. I watched the video and it was very good. At first all went smoothly...I got the top off, the control panel off and the detergent drawer out. Then I ran into problems, three of the six screws holding on the front panel wouldn't come out. I sprayed Liquid Wrench on, waited for a while, still wouldn't come off, then I tapped them with a hammer, still wouldn't unscrew. But I was able to access the door latch from the top rather than the side...a little tight and awkward, some swearing was required, but it worked. Machine now working like a charm, yay!

Of course, before starting any work always make sure your power cord is unplugged to begin with. Move the washing machine to an area with enough room to maneuver around as needed. Now, move around to the back of the washing machine and remove the two Phillip headed screws from the back panel. Push slightly up to pull the two bottom flanges out of their slots. Then pull out on the bottom of the panel which will remove it to allow you access to the inside of the washing machine guts. The drain pump is located directly inside and to the left being held down by three bolts with two hoses running from each side of it. Since there may be a bit of water stored inside the drain pump and hoses have a shop-vac ready to suck up any water that will otherwise go all over the place. If your washer has been down for a while that means sour disgusting mildewed water. Now, unplug the power cord on the top left of the pump and wedge it out of the way making sure it doesn't get wet. Use either a wrench or pliers to remove the three bolts that are holding down the base of the Drain Pump. Remove all of the screws that are holding the Drain Pump to the base. Flip it over to remove the last screw from the bottom. Twist the Drain Pump slightly to move the notches to be able to remove the Drain Pump from the base. Reverse this process to place the new Drain Pump on the base and into the washing machine. If you purchased a Drain Pump with a whole new base already on it then you just have to remove the three bolts and place the new drain and base in. This job is a very easy fix and would have cost you around $300 to $400 dollars having a repair man order the part and come out and do the work. I know because I asked a repair man how much he would charge me for this job. So save your money and fix the easy jobs yourself. Just don't tell my wife it was easy. HaHa!

Disconnected power cord. Shut off water supply. Disconnected hot water supply hose. Removed top cover. Disconnected appliance connection to Hot Water Control Valve. Removed screws holding HWC valve. Removed existing HWC valve. Installed new HWC valve. Reconnected appliance connection. Reconnected water supply hose. Turned on water to check for leaks. Reconnected power supply. Started washer with hot cycle selected. Timed water fill time. Replaced top cover. Washed a load of whites in hot water. Installation and test complete.