BX521VCPWR (P1325030W W) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

It was simple - I just had to place shelf on top of crisper drawer. It took more time to find item on website.

Needed ice maker bucket for extra fridge. Part came the next day, and worked perfectly.

I took out the old one and put in the new one. For some reason the repair story associated with the ice bucket had nothing to do with ice buckets.

I found the instructions on line which seemed very simple but I soon learned otherwise. The instructions say to remove the water line and then firmly pull the fill tube out as it is a tight fit. I couldn't get the tube out and ended up removing the lower freezer door/tray, the upper tray and the icemaker where I found the water had frozen solid in the end of the tube. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice then I could easily remove the tube. After several attempts to install the new tube I finally inserted a 3/8" OD flex tube thru the passage then I was able to slide the new fill tube over this and get it in place. I then reinstalled the icemaker, upper tray and the door/tray assembly. Turned the water on the check for leaks then plugged the unit back in and all is working well.

Watched the video you posted with the part and getting the gasket to fit like he did was not as easy as he made it look. Took me a few hours and before I was done the lights went out from a power failure but I was able to finish because the drill was battery operated. I may have saved money doing it myself but not time.

I sealed the freezer with cardboard and duck tape and kept the door attached (I recycled all the cardboard after I was done). I didn't need to use the hair dryer to remove kinks from the gasket because I couldn't get to the repair for a week and the gasket was in good shape after I took it out of the box.

I almost installed the gasket without removing the plastic door liner (more the twenty small hex screws) but I'm glad I decided to remove it after all. When I removed the plastic liner half of the fiberglass insulation was consumed by a huge block of ice. All these years my freezer had been working harder and wasting more energy than necessary.

I removed all the insulation and replaced it with spray insulation which took longer to allow for the spray foam to cure. The reason I knew what I was doing was because all of you took the time to post your installation experiences. Thank you....

By the way, if you decide to remove the plastic liner for my model, it really helps if someone holds the liner while you attach the first few hex screws. Thank you wife. Also, I'm so glad I had a can of spray insulation in the garage so my wife wouldn't say "how many trips to Home Depot is going to take to finish the job"

Removed the slide out bin and then removed the many screws that held the inner panel to the outer insulated door panel. Removed the gasket. Melted the ice and dried the fiberglass perimeter insulation in the door panel. Placed the gasket in position on the door that was lying on the table. Replaced the inner panel screws. Put everything back together.

THERE IS A PROBLEM NOW. THE GASKET DOES NOT MAKE CONTACT ALONG THE TOP EDGE AND AIR LEAKS INTO FREEZER. SIDES AND BOTTOM ARE OK. DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO DO NEXT.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

Watch video. Very helpful, followed instructions went in fairly easy. Gasket deformed, used hair dryer could not get to set straight. WAIST of TIME and MONEY. I wouldn’t recommended buying one of these twisted gaskets, buy a new fridge which is what I’m doing tomorrow.

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

I needed to replace a torn and mildewed gasket on the bottom freezer.

To prepare the freezer so I did not lose the cold air I taped a clear plastic sheet from a window insulation kit to the frame of the refrigerator. It held the cold in very well.

I did not remove the door from the refrigerator, but I would suggest you do so that you are working on a flat and non-movng surfact. It wasn't impossible to work with the door on, but it slowed me down.

Next, remove the screws under the existing gasket and take off the gasket (be sure you know what part goes behind the lip that gets screwed down).

Clean off the exposed area to remove any dirt, mildew, etc..

Place the gasket on the door and run your fingers across the top of the gasket to ensure that the little piece that is supposed to sit behind the lip is in place. If it doesn't feel even, it may mean that it is not totally behind the lip, and it may not shut properly (trust me - placing the gasket carefully is key).

Then replace the screws and voila, you are done!

let gaskets on cement patio in high ungodly chicago heat during sun shine. freezer had to remove the door 8 bolts . no problem. cleaned area and gasket fit to a tee. top part removed the upper nuts and 4 side ones left and right side . popped the gasket on top and screwed in the center bolt. there are one centering bolt on each side. this insures a sure fitting. worked my way side to side and finnally bottom. did not tighten bolts till gasket fit snug in the groove.

This is a bottom drawer freezer/refrigerator. Removed the drawer face from the drawer assembly. Removed screws that secure the inside of the drawer and removed the old gasket. Discovered that some fibreglass insulation inside the door was wet and icy from condensation that had gathered over time. Removed the insulation and dried it. This took some time as the ice was slow to melt. Once dry, I replaced the insulation, installed the new gasket and reassembled the door and reinstalled it on the door assembly. Used a hair dryer to warm the new gasket so that it would take proper shape as it had deformed slightly in its packaging . Was tipped off to this approach in the instructions that came with the new gasket. Laa in all the repais was successful.

My husband and I worked on it for hours, until we gave up and put the whole project off for the next day. The next day was not fruitful either, so we called my brother, who has had experience with this sort of thing. He figured out that the screws all around the door needed to be taken out. Finally, relief!! If there had been instructions included with it it would have been a snap. Long story, but a lot longer than it needed to be. (Of course, I could have looked online for instructions!) As for the product, I give it an A+. But the clamp is still holding the door closed. It was so stretched out on one side from our efforts that the door would not close. Well, you did say, "Describe how you did the repair".