Product Description
Shaft and Mode Shifter Assembly Specifications
Also known as the gearcase or transmission. This part helps move the agitator back and forth during the wash cycle. New shifter mounting holes are NOT threaded, use original self tapping screws to install new part. Tub seal is included with assembly.
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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Will not agitate
This part works with the following products:
Washer.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Hotpoint.
Part# WH38X10017 replaces these:
AP4380186, 1475792, WH38X10017, WH38X10015
Customer Reviews
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Mike V - December 27, 2020
Verified Purchase
Part we needed.
Got part way sooner than expected, Had all ready opened up the machine. Once the nut was removed, part went in easily. This was the part that was needed to silence the airplane noise from before. Works very well & quiet. Thanks !!!
Boyde H - January 24, 2019
Verified Purchase
great part
part was in good condition , easy to replace ,everything working good
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 2.4 / 5.0, 6 reviews.
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Very loud noise during the spin cycle
The first attempt to fix the problem did not turn out so well. I replaced the tub bearing, split ring, tub bearing washer and the hub washer. After reassembly and testing, the loud airplane noise was still present during the spin cycle
Then I ordered and replaced the mode shifter shaft assembly and, since I was going to disassemble again, also ordered a new 6-rib belt. Once reassembled and tested, it was quieter than when it was when brand new, according to my wife.
Parts came in very quickly and the tutorials/youtubes were spot on.
Then I ordered and replaced the mode shifter shaft assembly and, since I was going to disassemble again, also ordered a new 6-rib belt. Once reassembled and tested, it was quieter than when it was when brand new, according to my wife.
Parts came in very quickly and the tutorials/youtubes were spot on.
Other Parts Used:
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Walter from IRVING, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
7 of 7 people
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Very large noise during spin cycle
Tub seal was found completely broken. Replaced it.
Then replaced tub bearing, tub bearing washer, shaft & mode shifter assembly and 6-rib drive belt.
Reassembled and tried, more quieter and like new machine.
Loosening tub nut was a challenge as it was bit corroded, use of WD40 was a great help.
Knowledge from you tube was a great help.
Then replaced tub bearing, tub bearing washer, shaft & mode shifter assembly and 6-rib drive belt.
Reassembled and tried, more quieter and like new machine.
Loosening tub nut was a challenge as it was bit corroded, use of WD40 was a great help.
Knowledge from you tube was a great help.
Other Parts Used:
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Ashok from CUPERTINO, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
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Banging and noisy when running,especially on spin. Leaked water. Alot of rusty colored dirt on bottom of machine
Took all apart.. front off,top off, took basket top off..took the basket assembley out by unhooking the four shocks. Took a picture of all wireing and fittings. Then came the most difficult. The main nut that holds the basket to the main shaft. If you do not have one of the wrenches made for that nut good luck. Between all the gunk and rusty parts around it. It would not budge. I used a pipe wrench and a 3# hammer and it wouldnt budge. It is a oppisite drive nut so it comes off in reverse as a regular one. I ordered the wrench on line to use on the new one i orderd. Had to because the nut was getting chewed up. So waiting to order the parts i needed i ground down the nut with my angle grinder.. worked well. Knowing i had to replace the main drive and bearing it wasnt that bad. Got the nut off... pulled the basket out and then the shot seal. Really looked tore up. So because of the seal leaking, the water drips down onto the main drive and thats what ruined it. Cleaned everything up really nice.. went to put the new seal in and noticed it didnt fit as tight as it should.. so i put some silicone around it and installed everything back together. Still thinking of the seal still i went ahead and finished it all and guess what. It leaked.. the seal in my opinion needs to fit over top of the plastic main bucket not just inside of it. After researching the same problem some guys said they filled the bearing seat with silicone and it helped. Others say the plastic tub needs replaced because the bearing seat is wore out.. the tub is like $70.00. The seal is $8.00. So, what to do? Buy another tub and seal and hope the seal fits in tight, or gob alot of silicone on the seal and older tank and see.. the washer new was like $600.00. Been dicontinued now. The main shaft assembley was $160.00... seal$8.00.. the tool for $15.00...misc stuff still comes out to $200.00 . Now to buy a new tub? Is it worth it or not.. we'll see
Other Parts Used:
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Kyle from PT CHARLOTTE, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Water leaking from between inner shaft and outer shaft of assembly and teeth worn off of clutch assembly
Followed instructions from video for shaft and mode shifter assembly and tub bearing, all went as in video except extremely difficult to remove tub nut. Could not get nut to loosen and when it did finally move it was spinning the whole shaft, had to have the shaft held with a pipe wrench from underneath (2nd person). The tub seal was another issue, removal was easy just as in the video but because water had gotten inside the seal it caused the internal metal of the seal to corrode and rust which deformed the old seal and the plastic of the tub where the seal sits. There was no way the new seal would go in and be tight enough to seal so I put a hose clamp around it, heated the plastic with a heat gun just enough to be able to tighten the clamp several times, let it cool and removed the clamp. It held its shape and the new seal went in snug so I proceeded with the reassembly. Test ran the washer and checked for leaks, no leaks. It has been a week now and approximately 10 loads of clothes cleaned, all is good.
Other Parts Used:
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Dean from GLEN BURNIE, MD
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Noisey during spin cycles
Followed videos on partselect.com for changing tub bearing. Video does very good job of showing steps required. Repair would be easy if washer was new. First problem was conical tub nut could not be loosened even applying penetrating oil and heat. Finally resorted to 1/2" drive pneumatic impact gun (wrench) which hammered about 10 seconds before the nut came loose. Had to purchase 1-11/16 deep well 6 point impact socket at cost of about $30 for this task. Second difficulty was removing tub seal whose exterior rubber coating had apparently failed and the seal internal metal parts corroded causing it to expand. The tub seal had to be beat out from the bottom side using a drift. The next difficulty was removing the tub bearing which had corroded from minor leakage through the tub seal. Corrosion made the tub bearing outside diameter (OD) larger so it could not be removed using the method in the video. The outer tub bottom side was supported as close to the center as best possible and a socket just smaller than the tub bearing OD was placed on top of the bearing and was used to drive (hammer) the tub bearing out. There was a lot of cleaning necessary especially on the inner tub conical fit areas where tub rides on the split ring and hub nut. During reassembly the tub seal did not have a press fit into the tub; it was barely finger tight. I suspect the tub had permanently distorted in the seal area because the old tub seal had corroded and expanded. So silicone sealant was applied to the outside diameter of the tub seal to assure no leakage around the seal. I allowed that to cure overnight to be certain the seal would not move when inserting the shaft and mode shifter through the seal. A very light oil was applied inside the tub bearing. The last problem found was when tightening the bolts holding the base frame to the outer tub the base frame was pulled to one side so the mode shifter was not concentric with the base frame. This would place a side load on the mode shifter shaft and tub bearing. This was resolved by placing a 1/16" thick washer between one leg of the tub and base frame which maintained the base frame concentric to the mode shifter as the tub to base frame bolts were tightened. The repair is conceptually easy to perform but was challenging due to corrosion and detergent residue from 11 years operation. Now the washer rotating parts are essentially new, the repaired assembly is probably better than the original factory assembly, and the washer should operate for another ten years before the mode shifter bearing goes out again. A longer repair than anticipated but time and money well spent. Being retired helps.
Other Parts Used:
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Daryll from MURRYSVILLE, PA
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
3 of 3 people
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Had to make the 1-11/16” spanner nut tool
Followed the video guidance supplied by this site
Other Parts Used:
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Victor from PEARL RIVER, LA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
2 of 2 people
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Questions and Answers
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Chad
November 16, 2017
My washer makes a soft banging noise as the agitator changes direction during the wash cycle; when I move the flywheel back and forth by hand, there is free play when I change direction before the drum starts to spin. Is the shaft assembly the proper part to correct this?
For model number VBSR3100G2WW
Hi Chad, Thank you for the question. Before replacing the shaft assembly, I suggest checking the pulleys and the belt to make sure they do not have wear to them as well. Other wise the Shaft and Mode Shifter Assembly may need to be replaced. Hope this helps!
12 people found this helpful.
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Jeff
November 5, 2017
Washer makes roaring noise when spinning have replaced tub bearing and all related parts with it. Still makes roaring noise. Did notice when I had it apart lot of grease in bottom of washer couldn't really tell where it came from. Thinking wherever it belongs is my problem
For model number WJRR4170G2WW
Hi Jeff, Thank you for the question. The noise and the grease would indicate an issue within the Shaft and Mode Shifter Assembly and it will need to be replaced. Hope this helps!
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Rob
August 13, 2017
Washer won't spin or agitate. My switch and my belt are good. ..my bands are good. Took cover panel off and turned belt by hand and tub spins as I move belt. Ran washer with cover off and shaft that belt wraps around off motor is not spinning. What's the problem?
For model number WPRE6150K2WT
Hi Rob,
Thank you for your inquiry. If the shaft of your motor is not moving, you will need to replace your motor. Good luck with your repair.
4 people found this helpful.
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Jeremy
October 8, 2017
I have a washer that I am unable to spin the transmission by hand.Washer will fill with water and drain no problem but will not agitate or spin. I replaced the transmission on this washer a couple years ago and was hoping that wasn't the issue again. Any advice you have for me?
For model number WHRE5550K2WW
Hi Jeremy, Thank you for the question. With the information you have provided it does sound like there is an issue with the Shaft and Mode Shifter Assembly and it would need to be replaced.Good luck with the repair!
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Jose Rodriguez Sr
March 19, 2018
Hi sir, my issue is the washer takes water and wash but it comes to spin and drain it only drains it won't spin the tub. I pulled the cover and watched the washing process.
For model number WPRE6150K2WT
Hello Jose, thank you for your question. I would recommend testing the lid switch first, as that can cause the unit to not go into a spin cycle. You shouldn't be able to lift the lid and watch the agitate or spin cycles, so that might be the issue. If the lid switch is tested, and is functioning properly the issue is probably with the Shaft and Mode Shifter Assembly WH38X10017. I hope this helps!
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Paul
December 15, 2017
I get clunking while agitating, like the thing is trying to take off. It broke 2 damping straps. What can it be?
For model number WJSR4160G1WW
Hello Paul,
Thanks for your question. This may arise from a faulty transmission, part number PS2354082, and it is worth considering replacing that.
I hope this helps.
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Damian
December 13, 2018
My washer makes a high pitched loud squealing noise during agitation cycles but not during the spin cycle. It squeals when it changes direction and it also squeals if i lift the lid during the spin cycle and it attempts to brake. It also leaks at the tub seal. I can't tell if the noise is coming from the tub bearing or the lower transmission itself. Can you tell whether this is the tub bearing/seal or the transmission itself?
For model number WPRE6100G0WT
Hello Damian, thank you for your question. Before replacing the shaft assembly, I suggest checking the pulleys and the belt to make sure they do not have wear to them as well. Other wise the Shaft and Mode Shifter Assembly may need to be replaced. Hope this helps!
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Larry
October 30, 2017
Extremely noisy in the final spin cycle. Sounds like a bearing is gone.
For model number WJRR4170G2WW
Hi Larry,
Thank you for your question. Yes, it could be that part that is the issue. Here is a video showing how to get to the part to check if it has worn down or not: https://youtu.be/cWe8YAMM_Ds . Good luck with your repair.
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Brad
August 27, 2017
Washer has been making a shuttering / groulling noise, and now has a slow leak coming through the shaft shifter assembly.
For model number WHRE5550K2WW
Hi Brad,
Thank you for the question. The first thing we recommend you check is the Tub Seal, this part can wear down over time and can cause leaking and the noises you are experiencing.
Hope this helps!
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Dale
January 5, 2018
Washer does not leak but has started grinding sounds, heavy loads louder the grinding sound. I noticed there are 2 bearings one is the main shaft bearing. Do both need to be replaced? Second question, does in my opinion yes the seals need to be replaced? I am a man with very limited time so I want to have all parts on hand and do the job right the first time. Thank you for your feed back
For model number WJRE5550K2WW
Hi Dale, Thank you for the question. Without taking the appliance apart to look at them, I do suggest replacing both the bearings and the seals. If one part is bad it can put extra wear on the others as well. Hope this helps!
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Related Parts
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS2354082
Manufacturer Part Number: WH38X10017
Manufacturer Part Number: WH38X10017
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