LSE1000T Maytag Dryer - Instructions

When I removed the front of the dryer I saw one of the old glide kit pads laying in the bottom of the dryer outside of the drum. When I removed the drum retainer plate (4 screws) I could see where it came from and tell by the wear marks what was causing the rubbing noise. When the pad came out it caused the drum to shift downward in the front and the top of the drum cut through the felt seal. All of this resulted in a fairly loud metal-on-metal grinding. The repair went very well. The glide pads are held in place by two screws each and the felt seal is held in place by bent tabs around the inside of the drum retainer plate. Approximately 15 min. to disassemble and determine the problem and 15 to 20 min. to fix and reassemble.

As described on video, except re-installing the belt was difficult. I found it easier to reinstall the drum first, then put belt on inside the grooved part of the drum, so there is some slack. Once installed around the idler and drive shaft, slide the belt forward into final position

we opened the front panel, removed the tumbler and replaced the rollers. put it back together and started up the dryer.Noise continued.again opened the front panel and discovered a warned-out blower wheel. Replaced wheel. Runs good now

All of this repair can be done from the front of the dryer. There is no need to move it as long as access to the front is good. Unplug the dryer. Remove the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Hinge the front panel upwards until the clips on the top disengage. Unplug the door switch (two single wire plugs)and remove the wires from the wiring guide on the front panel. Set the front panel aside. Remove the lint screen. Remove the door switch wires from the wire guide on the front drum support. Remove the four 5/16" headed fasteners connecting the drum support to the main body. Remove the front drum support by lifting it up slightly and pulling it towards you. Set the front drum support aside (now would be a good time to inspect the drum slides, they are little blue plastic rectangles riveted to the bottom of the front drum support where the drum rides, if the plastic is damaged or missing replace the slides as they are part of your noise issue as well). Push the belt tensioner towards the motor until you can slip the belt off one of the pulleys. Remove the drum. Now you can access the drum rollers. There are two and they should be replaced as a set. Remove the snap ring on each roller shaft and slide the roller and washers off. There should be a non-metallic washer on both sides of the roller. If one of them is missing it will cause a metal on metal screeching sound while the unit is running. Clean the shaft with solvent (brake clean, etc) and inspect it for damage. If it is damaged replace it. Apply a little heavy grease to both sides of the washers and the shaft and reinstall the drum rollers. Install the snap ring (I replace the snap rings instead of reusing the old ones to ensure a snug fit). Reinstall the drum. Position the belt on the drum, tensioner, and motor. Reinstall the front drum support, making sure to line up the holes. Place the door switch wires in the wire guide on the front drum support. Place the door switch wires in the wire guide on the front panel and reconnect them to the door switch. Install the front panel and reinstall the front panel screws. Plug in and test run the dryer.

watched the u-tube video provided by you Part Select, very easy to follow, removed the thermostat and heating element as instructed, determined it was the thermostat and replaced it. The dryer works great. We saved alot of money thanks to Part Select.

First I took the front of the dryer off and removed the drum (of course, after disconnecting the power supply) Removed the belt and then the roller itself. I had to open a removable port on the back side to reinstall the belt but that was also very easy. The videos made it all seem soooo simple. Thank you.

I viewed the roller replacement instruction video on the website which was very helpful since I had never replaced drum rollers. A leisurely pace of one hour to replace the two rollers, half of which was spent vacuuming the interior. Removed the front panel without tipping the dryer. Had to disconnect a ground wire to remove one bracket but otherwise only had to remove screws, slip rings and washers. No belt removal. Drum was pulled away from rollers but remained in cavity Reassembled without any problem. Ran the dryer - much quieter and no longer had the whirring noise.

removed front of dryer, release belt tension, remove drum, remove old drum rollers, snap ring pliers a must, install new rollers and reassemble dryer.

I watched the video which was extremely helpful. I recommend taking pictures of the wiring and any other components if you take apart as you go along . it would be foolish not to vacuum while your in there.

Removed 2 front panel screws and pulled out bottom to disengage top clips. Unplugged two light wires. Set front panel aside. Remove 4 screws that support the front drum support. Remove panel in back to reveal motor and belt. NOTE HOW BELT IT THREADED AROUND IDLER AND PULLEY. Remove belt from pulley. Remove front drum support and set aside Pulled out drum and set aside. NOTE ORIENTATION OF RIBS ON BELT. Remove snap ring on roller shaft inside of machine. Pull off roller and two washers. Replace 1 washer, 1 roller ,1 washer in that order. Replace snap ring. Replace glides on drum support while apart. Drill out rivets and remove glide assembly. Replace with new parts and put rivet in hole to align. Rivet into place. Make sure glide assembly is seated by forming it to front drum assembly. Align second hole and rivet together. Reassemble in reverse.

MOved all my wifes stuff, disasembled the dryer based one the instructions I found on Google. Located the worn out parts. Reassembled the unit with the new parts, which were an exact match, immagin that. Hooked the power back up. (Note: Safty First allways disconect the power source first. And it is recommended to give the unit and the vent system a through cleaning when you have it disasembled.) Gave trhe unit a quick smoke test. Job complete, wife almost happy,(Question ? if it was that simple to fix the Dryer why did you wait so long. Life is good once again.

I followed video, took out two screws from bottem front of dryer. removed door set a side, used a nut driver to remove the 4 nuts holding the front drum panel, I used a 1/8 drill to remove 4 pop-rivets holding what use to be front glides,I put the new glides in cork parts first then the plastic parts, than used my poprivet gun to but in the new rivets. I put it all back together and now no more holes in my underwear!!!

After watching the video on this web-site it was very easy. I took the time while I had the drum out to vacuum out everything inside the cabinet and sprayed the sealing felts with silicone spray before re-assembling the unit. Wallah!! No 'mo' squeaks. Tommy

This repair can be made entirely from the front of the unit, so long as access to the front of the unit is good. Unplug the dryer. Remove the two front panel screws (bottom front of the panel). Hinge the front panel upwards along the top seam until the clips disengage. Unplug the door switch and remove the wires from the wire guide on the front panel. Set the front panel aside. Remove the wires from the wire guide on the front drum support. Remove the four 5/16" headed fasteners for the front drum support. Lift the front drum support upwards slightly and remove it front the unit. On a workbench use a 1/4" drill bit to drill the heads off the rivets that hold the drum slides (or glides) to the front drum support. Remove the slides and cork pads, or what's left of them. Thoroughly clean any residue from the mounting areas with solvent (brake clean, goof off, etc). Instal the new cork pads and plastic slides lining up and riveting one side, then the other. Now is also a good time to scrape any hard to get lint out of the exhaust well. Compressed air and a plastic scraper work well for this. Reinstall the front drum support, taking care to line up the holes. Place the door switch wires back in the wire guide on the front drum support. Reinstall the door switch wires in the wire guide on the front panel and plug them back into the switch. Reinstall the front panel and fasteners. Plug in and test run the dryer. Note: given the age of these machines it is a good idea to replace the drum rollers and washers at the same time as the drum slides. If one side of the system that keeps the drum running true has failed the other side has likely been damaged as a result. Having the parts on hand and at least inspecting them will save you the frustration of not fixing the issue and having to take the machine apart again. Also, noise related to the drum guidance system tends to start 10-20 minutes after the machine is started, and get worse as it runs. If the noise starts immediately the problem is more likely the belt. Again, given the age of the machine if you want to make sure you fix all possible weak points at once having a belt and tensioner on hand while doing the repairs is a good idea. I find you can fix all the age related failure issues at a cost much less than 1/2 that of a new machine of comprable quality.

I googled the model number and partselect.com was the first hit. I picked the the correct parts and it even showed me a video on how to replace the parts. Pretty easy to do and saved me from buying a new dryer:-) The repair was done in 20 minutes.