KGCD807XBL00 KitchenAid Cooktop - Instructions

- Removed the cover.
- Removed te two Torx screws.
- Pulled the burner a couple of inches to be able to disconnect the wire.
- Spent a lot of time removing the small Philips screw holding the ignitor. Ended up breaking the ignitor with pliers to be able to put WD40 under the screw's head.
- Treated all screws with a high temperature copper paste to prevent oxidation.
Installed the new ignitor with the new screw.
- Reconnected the wire.
- Installed the two Torx screws.
- Voila, it works.

Removed grate and burner cover (held on by gravity - no tools needed) then removed the two screws holding down the burner itself. These screws are Torx screws so you will need a Torx bit set (looks like a phillips head screw driver but is star shaped). Once these screws are out, the burner lifts off to reveal two phillips head screws holding the ignitor in place. Remove these two screws, un-plug the ignitor, plug in the new ignitor and replace the two screws holding the ignitor in place. Be sure to have the ignitor centered. The first time I put the new ignitor in place, it was touching the frame of the stove, so it failed to spark since it was grounded. Replace the burner and two torx screws and replace the burner cover and grate. Done and done.

I removed the burner cap and then the two screws that held the burner in place, pulled it out about 3 inches, disconected the ignitor and pluged the new one in, put the burner back in place and put the two screws back in, replaced the burner cap and it was done. I would also like to mention that I ordered my replacement part on Sunday evening and recieved it on Tuesday morning. Thanks Part Select!!!

The igniiter is made of ceramic and had cracked.
I remove the burner assembly, but couldn't remove the screw holding the igniter. After trying liquid wrench and every available screw driver. I opted to order the complete burner assembly. I installed the new assembly in 5 minutes and it worked great. This is the second ceramic igniter that has cracked on this stove top and both times I've had to replace the whole assembly. For a $1000 stovetop, I expected better quality. I'm just wondering how many times I'm going to have to replace burner assemblies. Each time it's been a different assembly.

I first tried to remove the torx screws only to have them break off..soooo as with most home repairs it grew into a bigger task. 1) unhooked the gas line and unplugged the unit 2) place the unit upside down on workbench 3) used a socket set to remove the hex screws that held the top on 4)removed all the other burners and disconnected electrical wire connected to the igniters. 5) Removed the top 6) uses pliers to remove the screw parts left in the burner base (wd-40 and lock wrench)..Replaced the old gaskets 7) put the top back on and screwed the top back on (make sure you pull the igniter wires through the top before securing it) 8) Reseat and screw in the burners using a torx bit

I've done this once before on this same gas stovetop as the electrode can degrade if it suffers from too many "boil-overs". The most important thing to do if the 2 screws holding the burner head on the cooktop are "tight" and don't unscrew easily is to soak them with WD-40 to loosen them up. Don't be in a hurry. They may need a couple of soak and waits. Once the screws are out, it's just a matter of connecting the wire on the electrode and replacing the burner. Also a Star screwdriver that fits properly is essential.

I had the front right burner and back left burner always click, but never light without help from a match or lighter. So I saw how you can use rubbing alcohol to clean the ignitors with a Q-Tip. I did that, but the ceramic on the back left ignitor broke off with just a gentle cleaning. I ordered a replacement ignitor which came quickly. While waiting I had to try to get off the burner, as the Torx (star) screws were both not budging even with a little WD40. I ended up drilling both screws out. When the ignitor came I replaced it quite easily. However, all five burners started clicking and kept on clicking once I plugged the cooktop back in. Problem number two - the Spark Module or wiring had a problem. It was the Spark Module and I'll describe that repair with the next installation s=instruction I fill out.

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches to disconnect the electric wire - it had a small bayonet connection. I turned the element over and unscrewed the small screw holding the ignitor to the element freeing the ignitor from the element. After receiving the part from Part Select, I reversed the process...

1. attaching the ignitor to the underside of the element using the small screw.
2. reattaching the electric wire to the ignitor.
3. positioning the element on the stove top.
4. reattaching the eelement using the 2 screws.
5. testing and finding it worked fine.

A couple of observations:

1. The screws holding the element to the stove are star screws while the screw attaching the ignitor to the element is Phillips - necessitating 2 different screwdrives for an easy repair.

2. I had problems with the initial part delivery - it went to a wrong address. PartSelect Customer Service was great. I had a less than 5min wait for getting a rep on the line with the 1 call I had to make to get this corrected. And when I did get a rep she was both helpful, friendly and knowledgeable in correcting the situation.

I thought I had ordered metal knobs but it appears that I got plastic ones. I’m thinking they’ll be fine, the others had just split the shaft that sits on the control stem, but I’m hoping this won’t happen again. I do have a repair question regarding one of the sealed burners on my Jenn-Air. The igniter switch sounds like it’s working but the burner won’t light without putting a match to it. Do you have any ideas of what could be wrong?
Thanks for your help,
Carol Lance

Ordered new knobs & now all burners work. Easy installation.

Disassembly: Removed 2 screws with nutdriver. Pulled off electrode connection. Screws were rusted and needed replacement.

Assembly: Slipped on electrode attachment. Went to local hardware store and bought 5/8" 8/18 pan head screws. Used screwdriver to screw down burner head. The 3/8" inch screws on the tech sheet do not work. Too short and flange is too wide to fit in opening in burner head.

This is the 3rd burner head that was replaced . everyone had the screws break off , & had to be drilled out & re tapped .I would not purchase the replacement screws @$4.00 each . They were just plain sheet metal screws that were steel . Better going to a home center & purchasing brass or stainless machine screws at a 1/4 of the cost .If you are not familiar with drilling out broken screws ,then this is not the repair for you .

The ceramic on the electrode broke due to water over boiling the week of Thanksgiving. When i tried to loosen the screw to replace the electrode it broke off inside the threads. Ordered whole new unit overnight. Back in business in five minutes. Thanksgiving was back on!! Thanks!

I took the old knob off, got needle nose pliers to get the small steel sleeve off the post, and put the new knob on. The knob had a number on the underside, but it is not the part number. Part Select's picture showed the number, so I knew it was the right part.

It was very simple two Phillips head screws to remove the burner and one screw to remove the ignitor. It was probably less than a 5 minute job per burner. Unfortunately one burner had a very rusty screw holding the ignitor and the head stripped out. I tried a stripped screw removal tool with no success so I used a drill press to drill the screw out. It still took less than 30 minutes. Now both burners work like new