JDS9860AAP Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

It is really easy to replace IF you know that the tabs that hold the switch in are ON THE TOP AND NOT ON THE SIDES. I wasted a lot of time prying on the sides to get the switch out. It would have been really easy if I had known the tabs were on the top and bottom.

The entire "project" took me less than 3 minutes, and required no tools at all! First, the saleswoman over the phone pointed me to the correct product for my problem ($30 less than what I thought I needed), and it arrived at my home within 4 days. Then, it was just a matter of pulling off the old gasket, and snapping the new one in place! Simple!

I eventually searched online for a supplier and ordered the replacement knob. Ordering was easy and delievery was quick. Replacing the gas valve knob was easy; just slid it in place. Now all 4 burners are available for cooking again.

It is very easy shut off the power yo the stove at the fuse box, unscrew the two screws and pull the element out replace and screw back into place.

Turned the power off to the oven, unscrewed the ends of the element, connected new element, screwed it back in to place and turned the powe back on. The video provided in my shipping confirmation was very helpful.

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

This cartridge fits my JennAir Downdraft Slide In Rage, part No. JDS9865BDP. The burner cartridge replaces a downdraft cooking grill module that comes with the original stove/Oven.
The spark quit on the cartridge side. I re-inserted the original cooking grill, and it lit fine. There are two components to look at. The sparker, and the burner igniter (one per each burner). Since both failed to light, I ordered the spark controller.
PartSelect has a video on how to test for failure, but I couldn't find that again.
Two screws mount the controller, two wires re-connected. and works perfect.

Simply removed old knob and popped on new knob. No tools needed.

I unplugged the cord to the stove. Then I removed the two screws on the broken heating element. Once the screws were removed, I slid off the two wires attached to the element prones. Grab the new element and attached the two wires. Reinstalled screws. Plugged in the cord, and turned on oven. Heating element came on.

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

Turned oven circuit breaker off. Removed oven racks. Removed 2 screws from old element. Pulled element out slightly disconnected wires on each end and reattached to new element. Pushed back in and reinstalled the 2 screws, reinstalled oven racks and turned circuit breaker back on. All done in about 20 minutes.

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

Because the stove is over 10 years old the screws were very hard to loosen up and I needed to use WD 40 several times to loosen them,after that it was a snap for a 71-year-old woman.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Still not fixed. Waited about a year for the part to arrive, due to "COVID supply chain issue". Part finally arrived and was missing a sub component (ironically the worn out part). Now awaiting a reorder confirmation that this is being sent along with a return mailing label.
The re-order required me to obtain a better picture of the part from your competitor's web site, to prove the part sent was defective as your site was inadequate. My first call on this issue failed because of an absence of the better picture.
The 2nd call to customer service was very understanding and professional but I have yet to receive any confirmation on this re-order in the past 5 days.