JDS9860AAP Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

UNPLUG THE POWER CORD! This particular model is a (slide-in) unit, it was wedged between to fixed cupboards/cabinets. Therefore, there are really no side panels to speak of, this made the repair slightly easier. I simply slid the unit out enough to unplug the power cord and access the right side of the unit. All one needs, at this point, is a Phillips head screw driver to remove a small metal panel installed just below the stove top panel (right side of range), its held with approx. 8 screws. There is one other panel that must be removed as well, (you may want to remove this panel first). It is an enameled-like panel approx. 5" wide x 36" long located at the front of the range (right side) running the length/height of the range (held with 2 screws). Get those 2 panels removed and you will see the spark module attached near center of range just under stove-top panel. Module is attached to a small metal bracket, module has 6 wires attached to it (2 feeding the module and 4 exiting the module to the burners). Bracket screws are nearly impossible to get at (you need a very stubby Phillips screw driver, if you can even get your hand in there). Anyway, I simply released the module from the bracket, then carefully bent the bracket back toward me; to provide work area for my hands. The bracket bends easily and really can't be broken. Now, at this point (using longer needle-nose pliers) detach the wires from the old module (remembering each wires location) or, as I did, hold the replacement module near the existing module and transfer the wires one at a time. Now, slap it all back together as you took it apart. Really simple job, total time is easily/generally under 30 minutes. It may be easier to access the module by removing all the burner components and raising the stove-top? Not sure? I chose not to do the repair that way. Hard part was locating where the manufacturer hid the module on the range. :- ) D.I.Y.ers Rock!!!

Remove Vent Cover, Remove Old Filter, Replace With New Filter, Replace Vent Cover, Repair Complete

Just took the old one out and put the new one in. Very easy!

Make sure all burners on stove top are off.Half twist burner top to separate burner from stove top.The burner slide fits over the metal tube that transports the gas to the burner.Remove the 2 slip fit connected wires from the underside of the burner.They should be of different sizes so no worries about incorrectly re-attaching them.The igniter has 2 philips screws holding the igniter to the burner, Remove those and the igniter will be able to be removed with a little wiggling.Insert new igniter thru the hole in the burner and secure with the 2 screws. Reattach wires , place burner back on top making sure the wires aren't being crimped when the burner slides over the aforementioned metal tube and twist burner to seat in stove top, turn on burner to confirm igniter now ignites properly.

Take out 2 screws. Unplug the old element, plug in the new one and put the screws back in.

Turned off power to oven. Removed screws from each side of element. Removed connectors to disconnect old element. Connected new element to connectors. Replaced screws, then turned on power to oven. Turned on oven to heat. Easy install.

First I did was to google the problem I have. There several video how to solve the problem. It show me different ways to solve my problem. I just follow the instructions. Thank to google without it, I am lost. I may add, that google is a big saver for me.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Put the back of stove on blocks of wood to get high enough to screw the new leg in.

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

Removed old hinges, fabricated new mounting plates from 16ga steel plate. . . Cut new hinges to fit in available space. . . Drilled and tapped new mounting holes and adjustment tracks. . . Shortened existing springs to fit new configuration. Installed new hinges.

lifted the top center panel off removed old filter installed new easy peesy