GTWN4250D1WS General Electric Washer - Instructions

The after school director told me of the washing machine flooding. It took only a bit to find the hose that was leaking--a little longer to figure out where it went. It was the bleach line to the drum from the little bowl under the lid. It had pulled off.

I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.

Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.

The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.

The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.

The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.

I removed the bottom pan and found the problem , It was the drain hose , then I removed the hose , and began to look for a replacement part , and my search lead me to Parts Select .com , It was MOST helpfull and for that I thank you guys , I got my part and insalled it in about 15 min. and took the machine back into the laundry room hooked it up and it's been doin good sense .

First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.

The video I watched said to remove front panel, control panel, and top panel. After I removed the front panel, I was able to remove the lid switch and splice the wires together and reinsert in the mounting without removing the other panels. Secured with wire tie and put front panel back in place. This did not, however fix the problem.

after reading repair stories, decided I should take front panel off and see where leak was coming from. taking the panel off was real pain but well worth as inside was dry! so I looked again and discovered a pin hole in drain hose that only leaked when tub was full. while I had panel off I noticed tub dampening straps were broken so went ahead and ordered those parts too.

Main thing is watch the video. It may vary a little according to the age of your appliance, as it did with me but common sense guides. The difference was minor on my part. Two hex head screws to remove per strap and they had to make them 1 size different. Go figure. Have your change handy. A ratchet nut driver will save you some time.

follow youtube vid. simple

pulled up on agitator and it came off and replaced it with the new one

First tried pulling the old agitator out by hand but couldn't get my fingers under it to pull upward. Tried several times but no success. Finally put two metal rods about 8 inches long in the holes in the bottom of the agitator and used them to lift upward, it came up immediately. I then pushed the new agitator down into the slot and it was finished. There is always a way when you think about it.you are a winner.

Remove two bracket screws. Removed hose. Put new hose in place using same bracket and screws. inserted end of hose into washer drain. Secured hose to cold water hose with two zip ties.

Unplugged machine. Used tape markers to identify knobs then removed control knobs with vigorous straight pull. Unscrewed three screws on rear of control panel face and tilted control panel over with a small sideways slide, to expose circuit board. Laid new circuit board alongside old and transferred jumper block and wiring terminals from old board to same positions on new. Unscrewed old board and removed. Put in new board and tightened screws. Replaced back panel and knobs. Plugged in machine and tested. Done!

really easy repair, just open the front cover panel & removed the Drain Pump.

As the video described. The two rear dampening straps holding screws were only accessible from underneath making their installation much more difficult than the front ones which were accessible from the top.

I followed previous parts select customers advice exactly, of replacing the dampening straps, and it worked perfectly. Thanks-A-Million!

Removed the screws from the control panel and flipped it open. Used putty knife to pop the retaining clips that held the front panel of the washer in place to expose the drum itself. Noticed black gunk build up in hose connecting the drum to the water level pressure switch.

Disconnected the hose at both ends. Attached the new hose to the pressure switch and proved it was working by blowing into the hose and getting the water to stop flowing into the washer.

Taped the old hose to the new hose so I could use it as a pull-wire to guide the new hose through its protected housing. Attached the other end of the new hose to the tub and voila, all was well.