GMR05BLHWWC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

a) remove front panel by depressing the 2 clips at the top in line with the lid b) remove the lid switch and 2 screws holding top on and remove top by tilting up SLIGHTLY and sliding to left. c) Remove agitator and by pulling straight up on it and remove adapter underneath d)remove 4 bolts holding 4 rubber straps to top of tub assembly, readily visible when top is removed. e) unplug motor wiring and disconnect pump and bleach hoses from tub f)while lifting up on tub, push down on each of the 4 suspension rods and disconnect them at bottom of tub ( this is the most difficult part, and to make it easier disconnect the rear rods first) g) tilt tub forward and remove tub assembly h) NOW, for the big nut that holds the spin basket in-- #1, it is LEFT HAND THREAD, so you will turn it to the right to remove it. #2, it is VERY TIGHT and requires a 1&11/16" spanner wrench (which I did not have) for removal. Instead, I used a 1&11/16 socket, an extension and an air impact wrench to remove and replace the nut. Assembly is reverse of removal and remember, that nut is ALUMINUM so be careful with that impact wrench when tightening it back up!I replaced the nut and split ring and cleaned the whole area thoroughly, and it greatly reduced the noise in spin mode. I did not replace the metal housing on the bottom of the spin basket, because it was $50 bucks. this probably would have eliminated all the noise, but my repair only cost $19 in parts, including shipping ,and the parts arrived in 1 day.

used a socket to unscrew the clip. pulled out the old hose, slid the new hose into the clip and screwed the clip back on. all fixes should be this easy.

It was easy, I just removed the old drain hose clip with a screwdriver. Next, removed the old, cracked hose, inserted the new one, and screwed the new clip in.
The best part about this story is the incredible service I was given, by this company. I bought the machine at Sears, so I assumed I could find the hose their. No, they instructed me to go to Orchard Supply(their sister store), I purchased a drain hose, the clerk told me to buy, but the water was still leaking. So, I went on-line and found the right hose, and now I will continue to purchase what I ned for my machine from your company. REALLY Fast Service. Thanks

You would think the timer was bad but it wasn't. The timer mount engineered is not sufficient and mounts brake so timer gets pushed off of broken mounts, then timer does not catch. Pathetic. Mount a U type bracket on back of metal back plate which acts as a stop for the timer. Use duct tape timer to keep timer from sliding down.

I followed partselect repair videos to see how to pop off the front panel and also remove the top control panel. Lay the control panel on top of the washer and leave everything connected. With power disconnected I first checked the fill tube and fill sensor by pulling the rubber tube off the bottom of the drum and blowing in the tube - you can hear the sensor click on and off. It requires more pressure if you set the water level switch to a larger load. This behavior told me the tube and sensor were working but this must be an airtight system to be reliable. To test for slow air leaks I blew in the tube to cause the switch to click, then clamped the rubber tube shut with a C-clamp. I left it overnight and no leaks - the switch was still activated in the morning, as I could hear it click when I released the C-clamp. I then suspected the fill valve, so I plugged in the power cord, set the washer for a load and started it. The water started filling and I unplugged the power cord, which should cause the fill valve to shut off immediately. It did not - it kept on filling with water, but in this case eventually shut off after 60-90 seconds. Since it did not shut off immediately when power was removed I knew the fill valve was sticking. I ordered the fill valve from partselect and received it in a couple days. Replacement was easy - shut off water, remove the hoses, and then 3 screws and two electrical connectors to swap out the valve. Then 3 screws to put the control panel back on and snap the front panel back in place. Done. Since replacing the fill valve the washer has been working perfectly.

Turned off the both the hot and cold water. Removed the hoses from the back of the control panel. Removed 3 panel screws to expose the inside of the component parts. Removed the 2 screws holding the valve. Installed the new valve. Then I pulled off the knob for the temperature control. To remove the switch, you need to press the tab that locks in the switch and turn the switch counter clockwise to remove the switch from the panel. Reverse the operation to reinstall the new switch. Pay close attention to the 4 wires that clip to the switch to get them in proper order. Reinstall the control panel and and reattach the hoses.

Easy repair-removed hex nuts and and screws to pop out old part and replace with new one. New part works better than the original! 1st replacement part arrived with a broken piece, a quick, courteous phone call got a replacement sent out. It took a 2nd phone call to obtain the refund, but the customer care reps are efficient and friendly. I would order from them again for positive service reasons alone.

The first thing I did was watch the video on the removal of the old broken dispenser and I said to myself that it couldn't be that easy. Well I am going on 70 years old and I was going to call a local to fix it. I bought the new dispenser just to avoid the up-charge. When the conformation email got here with video and written instructions. I watched the video and read the instructions. Just after the part arived (ahead of scheduls) I looked at the machins and said wat the he** what is she going to do to an old man. Got my screwdriver (battery and reversable) and wouldn't you know it . It only took me less then 15 minutes to do the whole job. I can't thank them enough for the video. Wife asked where the part was and almost pased out when I opened the door.. lol Trust these people . They know what they are doing!!!

You tube is the only way to go!

I followed the video and paused it after every step. What gave me the most trouble was the tub nut which would not turn so I used a chisel and it just disintegrated along with the split ring, so that worked. Now its like a new machine. It was a fun job and I'm glad I did it instead of replacing the whole washing machine.

Followed video to take washer apart. I used the Shaft & Drive Assembly to tap out bearing as it was stuck. BTW the screeching was because the Shaft & Drive Assembly ball bearing retainer cage was in pieces. Replaced tub bearing and installed new Shaft & Drive Assembly. Washer now runs like new. Get the spanner wrench to remove existing nut and purchase a new nut.

R&R Leaking/Damaged Hose and replaced it with the new one. One thing to be aware of is that after removing screws from the discharge hose upon removing the damaged one there was some water that did not expel from the unit so there was about a cup of water that came out. After removing the leaking hose you will need to remove the retaining plastic piece so that it can be placed on the replacement hose. Or if you ordered one put it on the hose so that it can retain the end of the hose in the washer. The anti-siphon clip is located about half way up the back of the washer it simply clips in place.

I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.

Pretty much the entire machine has to come apart to replace a transmission. The thing to know that no one mentioned is that the hub nut is reverse threaded - that means righty loosey.
Even if I had known, I tried it both ways and I doubt I could have gotten it off without the chisel as the others also had to do. Split ring was also frozen in place by hard water and soap scum so had to break that cheesey piece of aluminum off also. If you are taking apart your washer, I advise ordering these 2 parts so you will have them after you destroy the old ones trying to get to the part you need to fix.

Thanks to parts select for the exploded diagram!

Followed video on You tube that showed step by step how to compete repair.
The machine used in video was brand new and there was no corrosion on any parts so disassembly was much easier in video than on 9 year old machine.
Also reinstalling drive belt was a little tedious but overall job very straightforward and resulted in positive improvements in performance and greatly reduced noise levels.