The tub dampening straps support the wash tub and reduce vibration by keeping the tub at the center of the cabinet. If your washer shakes and moves, or is making a loud banging noise during the wash c...
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. This seal is difficult to replace and should probably ...
This is a handle actuator for your dishwasher. It is made of black plastic, and is sold individually. The handle actuator is found in the control panel, and it releases the door latch when you lift th...
This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you...
This part is the hub nut, or lock down nut for your washing machine. It is designed to hold the inner tub on to the transmission. If your hub nut is stripped or damaged, it may need to be replaced. T...
This switch interlock is found on your dishwasher door, and it must be actuated for the dishwasher to start. If your dishwasher door does not close properly, or if the machine will not start, you may ...
After removing frt panel which prys off I checked for anything obvious like a loose belt. Then I jiggled the magnet switch located on the inside of the loading cover. I saw the machine start agitating the it stopped again when I stopped touching it. I ordered the new part and spliced it in with the wire crip tool. Now the machine is A ok.
First I removed the screws that held the hose drain hose clip in place. Removed the damaged hose. Placed the new drain hose clip at the end of the new drain hose. Re-inserted back in hole, pushed in hose to necessary depth then tighted screws, Very easy and painless.
Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door. Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them. Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the door.
Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them. Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place. Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work. Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly. Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy. Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand. Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.
