GDT635HSJ4SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed two latch screws and one electrical connection, Removed
two screws that hold D/W to countertop, pulled D/W out enough to remove the old latch, install new latch, push D/W back into place, rescrew to counter top and rescrew the two latch screws. This problem happened since new, had repairmen twice and they did nothing but move the dishwasher stating it needed alignment, never mentioned this easy repair....

The Mid Spray Arm Assembly was not spinning due to a dish that was in placed the dishwasher that was too high and hitting the arm. When it spun until it broke the center shaft. Replacement was easy. After removing power I pulled the upper tray out and removed the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly by unsnapping it from the tray. I twisted off the broken spindle of the damaged arm assembly from the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly and inserted the new arm and gently pushed it until it snapped into the Mid Tiered Assembly. Reinstalled the assembled parts by snapping into the tray making sure it was centered.

Super easy repair, just removed the old latch and replaced it with the new one.

The old gasket pulled right out with no tools needed,
The new gasket went in the same way.

Results:
It did help on one side, but the bottom gasket also needs to be replaced it has a couple of tears one on each end.

Next Steps:
When the bottom gasket gets here I will replace that and it should be as good as new.

took off 2 sheet metal on the bottom, lowered the dish washer, pulled it out enought to unscrew 2 screws, unplugged the old part plugged in the new, put it back together.
Works like a champ.

Replaced latch

I replaced the flood switch following instructions shown in readily available YouTube videos. In short, you remove the coarse and fine filters, then take out the bracket holding in the flood switch and finally the switch itself. After replacing the switch, the dishwasher works normally again.

The pump went out after a few months of very loud noise during the drain cycle and then one day no drain or noise. A bit of research shows that this pump goes out frequently on this model so I ordered a new pump after inspecting the old pump for a clog or snag on the rotors.

The Install:
After removing the dishwasher from it's installed location and turning it on it's side (unplug water and electric of course), I was able to remove the pump from the two lines that connected it to the dishwasher and the drain line. I also had to unplug the pump from an electric connection to the dishwasher. Swapping out the new pump was the same but in reverse. Not a hard install, only simple tools required.

One note, my electric connection to the dish washer was different on this model pump since they changed the original part but there is an adapter included with this part so make sure it is in the box and fits before beginning.

Followed video instructions step by step.
I was fortunate i had enough slack in water, electric and discharge lines to avoid disconnecting.

Two wrinkles
1. wire clips on my door had to be pulled/pried loose from door and there were two not one

2. could not slide dishwasher out after lowering adjusters and figured out it was the mounting tabs bumpimng the granite countertop, thus the use of putty knives to slide the dishwasher out.

Removed the top two screws that hold the dishwasher to the cabinet , remove the two screws on the bottom panel and remove the panel. Screw the levelers all of the way up and pull out the dishwasher about 6 to 8 inch. Hook the new cabe on the spring and pull around pulley and attach it to the door bracket. I replaced both cables. Reverse to complete.

Followed troubleshooting procedure to determine that defective Flood Switch caused the problem and not the Heating Element. Replaced only the Flood Switch. I also replaced a deteriorated door gasket.

De-installed dishwasher from cabinet, removed door, and tipped unit over with back of tub resting on floor.

I followed the document referenced here for the troubleshooting and repair procedures: GE Appliances Technical Service Guide, 2012 GE Dishwasher, 31-9226.pdf available on web.

First, I watched YouTube video's a few times. Then as I was waiting for the user interface to arrive I watched some more video's. This repair isn't too difficult but requires a lot of patience. Just pay attention to what is required to get to the user interface. Also, I recommend doing this repair at a quiet time with less traffic from kids and pets and it will take about two hours.

Disconnect power breaker. Remove the internal dishwasher plastic rack trays. Remove kick plate and kick plate insulation. Disconnected electrical connector plug from power board. Remove junction box cover and disconnected electrical wires (hardwired model - not typical electric plug model). Pull dishwasher out about 6"-8". Disconnect user interface cable from power board. Remove door. Follow electrical trouble shooting to determine that power board was getting power to the user interface board but lights still non-operational (including START button). Remove internal door panel to get to interface board and replace it with a new one. I decided to replace the power control board with a new one as well because I had ordered it prior to determining that it was the user interface board (module) that was bad. Reversed the installation, reconnected everything. Turned the power. Put the plastic trays back in. Tested the unit (empty and loaded) and, it worked.

Took off the door and separated the two door pieces. Unscrewed the old dispenser and replaced it with the new one.

The base of the spray arm literally just spins a little bit into place like a luer lock. Takes two seconds to replace.