This is a flood switch assembly for your washer. The flood switch controls the hot and cold water filling your washer tub to ensure the proper amount of water. You may need to replace this part if you...
This is an end cap for a dishwasher rack. This part is about 2.5 inches long, is black, and is made of plastic. You may need to replaced this part if it is broken, or if your dishwasher rack continuou...
This OEM-compatible screw is designed for use with many GE dishwashers. Measuring 8-16 HXW and 1/2" in length, this stainless steel screw secures the middle spray arm hub to the upper rack assembly, e...
This is replacement door latch for your dishwasher. The door latch is attached to the tub frame, and connects to the door strike to keep your dishwasher door closed during operation. If you have a bro...
This diverter valve assembly controls water flow between the upper and lower spray arms in compatible dishwashers, ensuring efficient cleaning during each cycle. Located inside the appliance, it direc...
If your dishwasher isn’t draining properly, this drain pump kit could be the fix. It helps remove water from the tub during the cycle so everything gets cleaned and dried the way it should. The kit mi...
The lower rack roller supports the smooth sliding of your dishwasher’s bottom rack. Measuring 1.5 inches in diameter and charcoal-colored, this OEM replacement part is sold individually. Replace all f...
This dishwasher latch strike is a manufacturer-approved replacement part for your appliance. The latch strike is an important component in your dishwasher door assembly, and adds an extra layer of sec...
This middle conduit assembly, also known as the middle spray arm water supply tube, is an authentic OEM replacement part designed for dishwashers. It is a gray, plastic tube that connects the main wat...
This dishwasher toe-kick plate covers the lower front section of the appliance to create a clean, finished appearance while protecting internal components from dust, debris, and accidental contact. Ma...
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John
October 23, 2023
PANEL DOES NOT LIGHT UP AND BUTTONS ARE NOT ACTIVATED.
For model number GDT635HSJ4SS
Hi John, thank you for the question. First, you may need to make sure that there is power coming to the unit. If the unit has power but still does not start, then you may need to check the user interface board, part number PS16762500, as it is most likely faulty and may need to be replaced. Glad to be of assistance!
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I first tested for 120volts to my dishwasher to verify it was getting power from my electrical panel. Then tested pins 2 and 5 on the control board to make sure there was 14 volts going to the user interface harness. After I verified that I knew it was the user interface that was bad. I watched a video I found on YouTube and followed it. This repair was fairly easy while watching the video and making sure that you use the correct pin out that comes in the box for your model. I’m not an appliance repair person and it took me about an hour start to finish. I’m going to attach the video I https://youtu.be/TI8cUjy5YOE
We tried cleaning out the filter and it clogged with a huge amount of gunk. We removed the gunk, scrubbed the filter, and tried running the dishwasher, but still no water. That took over an hour (not counting the time the dishwasher spent running). Then we tried your diagnosis center and it pointed to the flood switch or the water valve. I extracted the flood switch (another 30-60 minutes) to check it, and it also contained gunk and (significantly) did not rattle, which made me suspect the flood switch was the problem, so I ordered one. Once the replacement arrived, I checked it and the flood switch rattled, confirming that it should work properly. I spent 30-45 minutes installing it, plus the filter assembly and racks I had to remove to access it. Ran the dishwasher and everything came out sparkling clean. I don't know where the gunk came from, but if you aren't getting water and the filter is full of gunk, check the flood switch.
Didn't actually do the compete repair but got close. Pulled out dishwasher, disconnected and checked continuity on the existing heating element (about 16 ohms) the new element was also about 16 ohms. This indicates they both were working fine and no need for replacement. Next step would have been to swap the elements would have been simple. Tried to replace main board as well, still not the issue so giving up and replacing the dishwasher. It wasn't the high temp cut off thermostat either incidentally and no error codes in maintenance mode. Check continuity of your existing element before ordering to save aggravation.
