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FWTR445RFS1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the FWTR445RFS1
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Loud humming noise from the door closure area.
First,turned the power and water off. I disassembled the door lock and switch assembly by removing two screws from the rear of the top lid to gain access to the switch. Removed two screws from the switch assembly located in the front door latch area. With screws removed, I seperated the three terminal blocks and inspected the assembly for failure potential. Discovered a small crack in the switch housing which created error in relay function. Ordered the part and installed in reverse order of above. Realigned the door for proper closing, turned water and power on and did laundry all night to catch up!!!
Parts Used:
Front Load Washer Door Lock and Switch Assembly
  • Alyre from Van Buren, ME
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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old selector knob cracked inside could not use the dryer.
removed the old selector knob just pulled it out gently and lined up the new selector knob and gently pushed it into correct alignment. what a breeze.
reasonable prices. saved me $ on a service call, part, and labor. Thank you M



I just feel the postage is way too much for an item that weighs under 1 oz.
Parts Used:
Control Knob
  • Marilyn from Pembroke Pines, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Inlet valve leaked water from supply line(s) back into washer.
Pulled washer electrical plug from receptacle.
Unscrewed hot and cold water inlet hose connectors.
Removed screws retaining backplate.
Removed back plate.
Removed two screws connecting valve assembly to frame.
Pulled two spade electrical wire connectors from valve assembly.
Opened hose clip securing hose on outlet side of valve assembly, using pliers.
Pulled hose from valve assembly.
Valve assembly now free.
Reversed above with replacement valve assembly.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • John from Powhatan, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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WASHER WASN'T SPINNING OUT ANYMORE.
Pulled the back off and it was right there. Hardest part was to get the belt all the way around the drive wheel on the washer tub. Found out that it wasn't just the belt. It is the shock absorbers that probably broke the belt, even though the belt was probably well over 15 years old. The bouncing and banging because of the absorbers being bad probably had something to do with the belt eventually breaking. Now, we need to replace the shock absorbers.A big thing to remember about the belt install....clean the drive wheel real good!!!
Parts Used:
Drive Belt - 6 ribs
  • Christopher from CHARLEVOIX, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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The water would not stop filling
First I did some research and concluded the water inlet needed replacing. Obviously once you know what you need you go to PartSelet.com for parts and installation info. I went through the front of the machine. So I removed the front of the washer(2 screws at the front bottom)slide down the panel to separate it, lifted the top cover of the washer(2 screws on the underside of the lid and 3 wire connectors to the fill switches) and then loosened the right side panel(3 screws at the bottom). Now pushing the wash barrel to the side it gave me enough room to squeeze my arms in to the inlet part. Be careful there are sharp edges and screw tips inside the machine. I removed the 2 wire connectors(hot and cold solenoids) inside the washer and then removed the screw from the back outside that holds the water inlet to the machine. Now I was able to pull the inlet closer to me so I could get pliers on the hose clamp to loosen and remove the old part. The new part was an improved version that was more solid. I attached the hose affixed the squeeze hose clamp and pushed the water inlet into place. The screws were not threading so I grabbed a couple of self taping hex head screws and a nut driver head for my drill and screwed the inlet in from the back of the washer. Then I replaced the wire connectors to the water inlet. With the water inlet complete, I reattached the right side panel, the washer lid, fill switch connectors and the front panel. Washer fixed and running perfectly!
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Jeff from Monticello, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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drain pump stopped working
First, I unplugged the unit, then took out the hold down screw. Next I took off both snap rings and layed towels down. Pulled off both hoses. Finally reattached in reverse order. I did not have the problem of others with the snap rings they came off easy and went back on easy.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump - 60Hz 120V
  • Robert from Camby, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
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Both shock absorbers for the tumbler had broken off
The repair itself was simple; it was the original design of the washer itself that made it time-consuming, because of the tight spaces involved. Basically, all you have to do is remove 2 plastic pins, take out the broken part, make sure you have the new part facing the right way, and put the 2 plastic pins back in. Should take 2 minutes if there are not other machine parts in the way!
Parts Used:
Shock Absorber Kit
  • Elizabeth from Bellevue, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Rubber seal (boot) needed to be replaced.
I began by removing the seal from the exterior lip of the machine housing. I took a razor and removed any rubber and adhesive that remained on the unit.

Next, I remove the boot from the soap dispenser tube (located at about 11:00 of the opening) with a needlenose plyers. The manual recommends flattening a 3" copper pipe to fashon a tool to release the "bread tie" fastener. I can see why but patience with a needlenose sufficed.

I pulled the boot down from the tub housing (with much force) exposing the band that holds the boot in firmly. I one pull, both pieces came out. I could tell getting the new one is was going to be a chore.

I cleaned the area and after about 40 strenuous minutes of getting the new boot onto the tub, only a couple things remained. Even with help, be prepared to dedicate hours of frustration getting the band around the boot securing it to the tub. The working space is minimal and the task is virtually hopeless to slightly possible.

Once that's taken care of, you may feel like you can accomplish anything. The rest goes up in the order it came out. Make sure you slide the boot up as far up the soap dispensing unit as possible before securing the bread tie clamp.

Run the seal around, close the door and have one of you kids clean up the work area (and mop the blood, sweat and tears from the unit and the floor.
Parts Used:
Inner Door Panel Kit - White
  • Jon from Stevens Point, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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It would not start
I unplugged it from the outlet, undid the two screws from the top, then slid it off, opened the door and undid the two screws from the door switch lifted it out relaced it with the new one, screwed it back into place, replaced the top, plugged it back in and away it went.
Garry
Parts Used:
Front Load Washer Door Lock and Switch Assembly
  • Garry from Burlington, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Washer Door Wouldn't Lock
I watched the u-tube video and followed what he did and it was fixed. Reason it took over 15 min I had to find the correct bit for the screw. I think your web site is great thanks
Parts Used:
Front Load Washer Door Lock and Switch Assembly
  • Shawn from Springdale, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
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Washer wouldn't enter the spin cycle. Clothes wet at end of wash cycle.
Open the door. Pull the clamp off of the boot (locate spring at bottom). Peel back the boot on the right side so that you can get to the door lock and switch assy. Remove the 2 screws in the front that hold in the door lock and switch assy. Remove the wires from the old assy. Transfer the wires to the new assy. Screw in the new assy. Refit the boot and clamp. give it a try.
Parts Used:
Front Load Washer Door Lock and Switch Assembly
  • Leslie from Tolland, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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water leaked into machine when turned off
Removed top,removed hose from inlet valve to washer,removed hot and cold inlet hoses and with phillips screwdriver removed water inlet valve assy and replaced. Reassembled and tested.

My order arrived 2 days after i ordered same. Excellent service from partselect, Thank You....
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Henry from Frenchtown, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Water would not drain from washer
The drain pump was easily acessible at the front of the washer. There were only two screws to remove. However the two clamps holding the in/out drain pipes were a bit tough to release. When installing the new part, it made it easier to attach the drain pipes first before reattaching the two screws. We were able to get one clamp on fairly easily but the other we finally gave up on and put the old fashioned screw-type clamp on. It worked fine.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump - 60Hz 120V
  • Beverly from Chiefland, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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2 shocks and one spring broke
repair wasn't too difficult, hardest was raising the drum to engage the springs.

Steps I took:

remove the rear and front (bottom) covers. To remove the rear cover, I went ahead and took the hoses off. The bottom cover needs a good tug once the two screws are removed.

Once both covers were off, it was obvious what had to be replaced.
Pushing the notch on the shocks, removed both top and bottom pieces. Then I used books to lift the drum so that i could attach the new springs. Removed the books, installed the shocks from the top to the bottom.

Went ahead and removed the coin drop, cleaned it out, and reattached. Ran the washer two cycles to confirm the vibrations were gone. Loaded it up with towels (seemed to cause the worst vibs) and it was quiet.

Re-installed the covers and that was it.
Parts Used:
Shock Absorber Kit Single Spring with Insulators
  • Don from campbell, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Would go into high spin in regular wash settings .
(1) Removed top of washer . (2) Open washer door . (3) Removed the two screws holding the Door Lock Sw while holding the switch from inside the machine . (4) Lifted the switch up to remove wire harness one wire at a time and reconnect to new switch . Double checked work and reinstalled switch . (5) Run washer machine make sure everything is back working . I need to add that the washer door needed to be adjusted . The bottom of the door was kicked out . Washer is now working .
Parts Used:
Front Load Washer Door Lock and Switch Assembly
  • Larry from TOLEDO, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the FWTR445RFS1
76 - 90 of 336