FWTR445RFS1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

S/O Water , Removed front panel, removed screws from side panel water valve accessible. Removed screws that hold water valve, installed new valve reassembled washing machine.

I installed this part on a stackable washer-dryer unit. First, I removed the hoses (one had broken off already, damaging the cold water coupling). Using a nut driver I removed the screws on both L-brackets in back that help secure the dryer unit to the washer base. Then, I located 2 other screws securing the dryer to the washer base. These were fairly accessible in the recess where the dryer exhaust vent is located, directly above the water inlet valve. I removed both with a nut driver. I thought I would have to also unscrew 2 more screws on the other side of the dryer, but these were not accessible. So I lifted the side of the dryer I had unbolted to get to the water inlet valve. And voila! It lifted up. I placed a 2x4 on edge to keep the dryer tilted open. The inlet valve is attached to the back inside of the washer by a single screw on the Kenmore, which I removed with a phillips screw driver. Reaching inside the back of the washer, I disconnected the water hose by pinching the retaining clip with pliers. Then I pulled the electrical connections off the the hot and cold solenoids and the unit came out. The replacement unit was installed in reverse.

First called a repairman.Wanted over $300 to put a new door lock assembly in.Searched the web, found PartsSelect,bought part for less than $75,husband did repair in less than 30 min.
VERY happpy customer.

THANKS

Removed top cover of washer to get to the door lock mechanism then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove door lock mechanism. I then replaced door lock mechanism with the new one I bought from PartsSelect. The repair job was very easy and took a total of 15 minutes to remove old part and install new one.

First thought the problem was with the spin cycle, however it soon became clear it was the pump that wasn't draining the water that kept the spin cycle from doing it's thing. After hand-wringing a large load and shopvacing out the remaining water, I ordered the new pump, got it in two days, and did a quick change out and it works perfectly. During the removal of the rubber boot that connects the tub to the pump, the one thing I did discover was a yucky buildup of years of fabric softener which I couldn't break my wife from using. But, after showing, and more importantly, letting her SMELL the fungus/mildew in the sludge, I've finally broken her of the habit! Best bang for the repair buck so far.

Paid $27 total for a shock kit to replace the 2 broken stock shocks. Replaced them. It turns out it was not the problem, but just a symptom of the spider bracket (mates inner SS drum to drive shaft) corroding and breaking causing the drum assembly to shake out of balance. Found out is a systematic problem with this model washer, and no matter what else you fix, this will break and kill it at some point. Piece of crap!

first took off old pump off by removing 2 screws and removed 2drain hoses under front load washer with pair of pliers then put new pump on same as removal.

disconnected electric and water supply. removed back cover from front loading washer. removed two screws from spring end plate on the top of the washer. replaced old spring with new spring/insulators by lifting the tub and hooking the new spring on. replaced the back cover and top spring cover plate. reconnected water supply and electric. machine is working like it did before the spring broke. very easy fix. the majority of the effort was moving the washer around to get easy access.

Had to replace one Spring on top of the tub and both shock absorbers. Anyone with even a limited amount of mechanical ability could handle this repair. Save yourself about $300 in repair cost and replace these items yourself. Spring and Shocks absorber kit cost less than $60 with shipping.

Just look at the diagram that comes with the parts, it's a piece of cake. The most difficult part is replacing the spring, she is stiff. You will need to take the top of the machine off, which is super easy, and remove the metal keeper on top of the frame rail. Get someone to help you as you will need to lift the tub and slip the spring over the frame rail.

The shocks are the easiest part of the repair, and should take less than five mins. to replace.

E47 error code means control board or door lock. From reading other stories, I decided to try the door lock first since it is much cheaper. Frigidaire tech support was no help at all.

First I removed the "wire" and spring that hold in the rubber seal at the door.

Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the door lock in place.

Removed the door lock, unplugged the 3 connections, plugged the connections into the new door lock, screwed it back in and replaced the rubber seal and wire that holds it in place.

Runs fine now.

First,turned the power and water off. I disassembled the door lock and switch assembly by removing two screws from the rear of the top lid to gain access to the switch. Removed two screws from the switch assembly located in the front door latch area. With screws removed, I seperated the three terminal blocks and inspected the assembly for failure potential. Discovered a small crack in the switch housing which created error in relay function. Ordered the part and installed in reverse order of above. Realigned the door for proper closing, turned water and power on and did laundry all night to catch up!!!

removed the old selector knob just pulled it out gently and lined up the new selector knob and gently pushed it into correct alignment. what a breeze.
reasonable prices. saved me $ on a service call, part, and labor. Thank you M



I just feel the postage is way too much for an item that weighs under 1 oz.

Pulled washer electrical plug from receptacle.
Unscrewed hot and cold water inlet hose connectors.
Removed screws retaining backplate.
Removed back plate.
Removed two screws connecting valve assembly to frame.
Pulled two spade electrical wire connectors from valve assembly.
Opened hose clip securing hose on outlet side of valve assembly, using pliers.
Pulled hose from valve assembly.
Valve assembly now free.
Reversed above with replacement valve assembly.

Pulled the back off and it was right there. Hardest part was to get the belt all the way around the drive wheel on the washer tub. Found out that it wasn't just the belt. It is the shock absorbers that probably broke the belt, even though the belt was probably well over 15 years old. The bouncing and banging because of the absorbers being bad probably had something to do with the belt eventually breaking. Now, we need to replace the shock absorbers.A big thing to remember about the belt install....clean the drive wheel real good!!!

First I did some research and concluded the water inlet needed replacing. Obviously once you know what you need you go to PartSelet.com for parts and installation info. I went through the front of the machine. So I removed the front of the washer(2 screws at the front bottom)slide down the panel to separate it, lifted the top cover of the washer(2 screws on the underside of the lid and 3 wire connectors to the fill switches) and then loosened the right side panel(3 screws at the bottom). Now pushing the wash barrel to the side it gave me enough room to squeeze my arms in to the inlet part. Be careful there are sharp edges and screw tips inside the machine. I removed the 2 wire connectors(hot and cold solenoids) inside the washer and then removed the screw from the back outside that holds the water inlet to the machine. Now I was able to pull the inlet closer to me so I could get pliers on the hose clamp to loosen and remove the old part. The new part was an improved version that was more solid. I attached the hose affixed the squeeze hose clamp and pushed the water inlet into place. The screws were not threading so I grabbed a couple of self taping hex head screws and a nut driver head for my drill and screwed the inlet in from the back of the washer. Then I replaced the wire connectors to the water inlet. With the water inlet complete, I reattached the right side panel, the washer lid, fill switch connectors and the front panel. Washer fixed and running perfectly!