ARR620 Amana Range - Instructions

The Job didn’t take very long at all. I pulled the unit out and unplug it before I started the repair. I had to remove the back two access cover plates to get to the two wire leads that connect the broiler. I don’t believe there was enough wire to be able to do it all from the front side. Next I disconnected the two wires that connected it while remembering what color goes to the correct side (just incase this does matter). After removing the wires I moved on to remove the element with a Philips screwdriver. The new part already had the hangers on it so I reused the old screws and installed the new element. Next I reconnected the wires in the back and re-installed the back panels. I plugged it up and it works as good as new now. This was definitely a lot cheaper to fix this myself than hire a repairman.

Our oven started turning on randomly by itself with the knob in the off position. I removed the upper back plate from the stove and took a look at the electronic assembly which looked fine, but there must have been a bad switch in there somewhere. I ordered the KRC electric to replace the whole assembly (I know it's not cheap, but it's a better deal than a repairman!).

Repair couldn't have been simpler: Remove the four individual wires and make note their orientation, remove the plug with multiple wires, remove the oven knob (up front), remove 4 screws holding the whole assembly in place. Once the old assembly is out remove the sticker plate and place it on the new KRC electric, screw back in, put all the wires and the knob back on, put the back upper plate back on, that's it! Took me 10 minutes tops...including turning off the breaker and pulling/pushing the oven into place. Oven no longer turns on by itself!!

Sorry I don't have the model number of the oven available, but it popped right up with a part search.

Turned off the power! Unscrewed the element (2 screws) pullled the wires out. Put the new part right in. Easy!
Thank you-only a week before Thanksgiving, what a life saver! Also, order on Monday AM and was delivered by mid-day on Wednesday!

Turn the power off to the unit. Remove the cold element by lifting up and pulling out. Remove the drip pan. Remove the element plug screw and pull the plug up and out of the socket. Cut the leads to the plug as close to the plug end as possible to allow enough wire to splice the new plug in. Strip the insullation back 3/8" to allow for splicing. Install the shrink tube collar on the wire and place one new lead (prestripped at the factory)next to the old wire and place the wire nut provided over the bare wire ends and twist it on until it is tight. Bend the wire nut splice back over one of the leads and slide the shrink tape over it. Heat up the shrink tape with a hair dryer to make it tight over the wire nut connection. Repeat the process for the next lead. Slide the leads into the new socket. Install the socket and secure the the new screw provided. Reinstall the drip pan and plug in the heat element. Follow the same procedure for each element socket replaced. Turn the power back on.

Exactly:
(e.g. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...)

Regarding my right side oven door hinge replacement, P/N PS2172201

After reading that other people had trouble threading the screws into the new hinge, I looked at the drilled mounting holes in the new hinge. Neither hole was threaded. The smaller hole used a self tapping sheet metal screw which works fine. The larger hole gets a machine screw and will not self tap. Since the instructions say put the screw in "once" to tap the holes before installing the hinge, I tried this. It doesn't work, regardless of what the instructions say. The larger hole should come from the manufacture threaded. I do have a tap and die set so I tapped the hole myself. After that, the installation is a 5 min. ordeal.

Take the two screws, one on each side, out that hold the oven door on the hinges. The door will then pull straight off the hinges. Take the storage drawer below the oven out. Unscrew the top and bottom hinge screws and pull the old hinge out from inside at the bottom. Put the new "threaded" hinge into position and hold from the bottom, inside. Screw in the two screws, large one on the top end, and put the door back on. You can open both hinges about 30 degrees to allow the door to slide back on the hinges easily. Put the last two screws in that hold the door to the hinges and you are done.

Really very easy and saved several hundred dollars in repair bills. I might add that my hinge arrived on time 3 or 4 days after the order was placed.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Using a nut driver, remove the back panel of the oven. Remove the electrical connections from the elements.

The Bake element has two Philips head screws at the back of the oven, the Broil element has one screw at the back of the oven and two on top of the oven near the front. Remove the screws.

The element then falls out very easily. The new element has to be pushed gently through the insulation on the back of the oven, but this was not a problem.

One issue: make sure that the Broil element is "right side up." The screw on the back of the unit is below the electrical connections.

Replace the screws, reconnect the electrical connections, and test the oven. If everything works, replace the back panel.

Total time from turning the first screw to the last was roughly 30 minutes.

replaced drip pans with correct type

Followed instructions from previous repair story!!
Pulled old burner out. Unscrewed plug element. Cut old wires back about 6 inches from plug. Attached new part with wire nuts provided and covered with shrink sleeves provided. Attached plug with provided screw and slipped in new element. Works great!!
I want to thank the previous posters for posting their detailed repair stories....without reading those, I may have called a repair service and paid big bucks. Thanks to all previous posters for the detailed information they provided!! PS...The parts arrived in amazingly quick!!

Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.

The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.

My bottom oven didn't work, and I had called a service to come out and fix it. It was a $60 charge just to come out. My friend owns an apartment complex, and she told me it was two screws and a pull to remove the element and replace. I took the element out, ordered it for $38, had it the next day and repaired my oven in a matter of minutes. It was so easy and inexepensive. I feel like I can do anything!

ordered part -got it the next day- stalled as long as I could then opened oven removed racks-used screwdriver to loosen screws in bracket holding element on- pulled out element-used pliers to take off wires in element-thew old element as far as possible-reversed procedure to put in new element-replaced rack-received praises of all afffected-the end

TURNED OFF POWER TO STOVE Removed 5 Knobs, 2 screws that held bad switch.
Removed 4 screws and lifted panel up and forward to expose switches. Adjusted spring tension on knob stem to hold knob ( stem in new switch slightly smaller) removed wire from defective switch one at a time and fastened to new switch in sequence. Reassembled and turned power on. Defective switch had stuck contacts making it full hot.