40311 - Instructions

Unscrewed the old part; screwed in the new part and said a quick prayer - LOL!
The part worked great, but I wanted to mention how quickly I received the part!
I would definitely order from this company again!

Pulled out the old one put the new one in . Simple and easy

get fingers between lower spray arm and drive flange - rotate arm counter-clock wise and lift off...the arm was warped and hitting inside of lower door liner.

The web interface is nice, however in this situation it references the wrong part which was not known until the item arrived. Customer Service handled return, however I had to call LG directly to confirm correct part number (LG p/n 4866ER0004A = p/n PS3524040) but this was only after LG also gave wrong p/n. When replacement part arrived the internal concrete had a crack in it. The part is basically a plastic shell that is filled with concrete. However the opening (about 1 x 4) is left open and with the concrete having a crack in it the piece will vibrate together and continue to break down over time (which is what happened to the original one) Before installing I chose to fill opening with epoxy and a plastic layer, then covered with electrical tape to seal it in. I feel this item is poorly designed from LG. Additionally this item was poorly packaged by PS when shipping which caused the damage (it weights about 15 lbs and was allowed to float around in a large over-sized box filled with large air pillows). I have photos but no way to upload here.

The repairman offered to fix the dishwasher at a cost of about $200 or supply the water inlet valve for $85. Google led me to PartSelect.com where I easily found the correct part for $45. I received the part in 2 days by FedEx ground.
The hardest part of the repair was removing the dishwasher from the cabinet. I took the dishwasher out a short distance to the patio where I replaced the water valve...about 10 minutes.
I then made a makeshift connection to an outdoor water hose and connected the electricity and ran the dishwasher while out on the patio through a short cycle to make sure of the repair and check for leaks.
Then reinstalled into the cabinet...total time about 2 hours.
Thank you PartSelect.com

First unplug the machine. Turn the water off to the hoses. Remove the hoses from the machine to make it easier. Remove the screws from the back of the top cover. Pry the front sides with a screwdriver and lift. Standing behind the machine on the left side you’ll see the three solenoids or inlet assembly. Remove the two screws so as to take the inlet assembly out. There are hoses attached to the assembly.

Disconnected the electricity, the drain hose, and the water supply from the dishwasher. Loosened the two screws from the countertop and pulled out the dishwasher. Turned it on to it's side. Saw the damaged inlet sump. Had to remove the Pump connector to get to the inlet sump. Checked it also and discovered that it was starting to develop a small crack from the inside. I decided to replace it as well. The job involves removing the hose clamps and removing the spray mechanizm from the interior of the dishwasher to spin out the inlet sump. Not a difficult job.

Open dishwasher and remove the bottom spray wheel, filter, and unscrew the mounting bracket to release the pump connector below the bottom of the unit. Remove mounting screws at top front of dishwasher and carefully slide the unit out; you may have to pry side panels inward with a flat screwdriver in order to get the dishwasher past any cabinetry. Be careful not to pull the dishwasher too far out as the water supply and drain hoses could be damaged. Unplug the unit. Turn unit sideways and tip over onto its' back. At this point, the sump will have to be removed using a nut-driver and/or socket set. This will open access to remove the old pump connector. Replace the old connector with the new connector, and reassemble the sump, connecting and firmly tightening all connectors. Tip unit upright. Screw mounting bracket back into the bottom of the dishwasher and put the remaining parts back. Before pushing the unit back into it's nook, I advise running a quick cycle just to make sure there is no leakage. If there is no leakage, put the unit back, tighten the mounting screws and you're done.

Repair is super easy and anyone can do it in no time!
At first my fear was that it was the pump, but after reading through the trouble shooting here it narrowed it down to the water inlet valve. The new valve even came with easy to read and understand instructions. I had it fixed in less time than it took my wife to make us lunch lol.

2 screws hold the mount bracket in place. Just remove the screws, remove the c-clip that holds the secondary/small water line on, pop the hose off then remove the main water inlet line [ its the bigger line with the brass fitting ] I only needed a pair of pliers for this. Reinstall the main water line into the new valve, but make sure you use pipe tape on the fitting or you'll have a water leak. Reinstall the secondary water line and reclip the c-clip using pliers to squeeze the clip. Hold the valve in place and reinstall the 2 mounting screws. That's it your done !!

This is the second time I've used partselect, and they are hands down the best !! Other sites would have you buying part after part until you happened to get lucky and get the right one. Not here, they help you figure out just what you need and nothing more.
Great people and fast service !!
Thank you once again.

No way to repair since the wrong part was sent. I have sent numerous emails with order numbers, part numbers, model numbers BUT I have no return label to send this back and get a refund. Maybe this will get someone's attention. Pretty disgusted!

Disconnect water line and screws (2) holding dishwasher under cabinet, and clamp for wastewater line. Pulled dishwasher out, turned on its side, and removed pump. Disassembled pump per instructions (great instructions) and installed new parts. Reversed to reassemble and except for a loose clamp that leaked (I tightened) it went well. Just under 1 hour.

I watched the parts select video and followed their instructions. Only “ issue” was there were no screws on the door behind the exterior skin as in the video, so lifting the inside door liner to put the new lower door seal in was concerning. I was able to pull the liner up enough and slid the seal in with no problem. The video was the key to a smooth repair.

Turn off power and water from dishwasher. Remove Base Access Panel. Remove the upper 2 screws that holds the dishwasher in place. Pull out dishwasher. Locate the valve and remove the 2 screws holding the mounting bracket. (I used a hex Nutdriver to remove the screws) Remove the valve. Disconnect the wire connector. Disconnect water supply. (Place a towel to catch the water) Loosen the hose clamp holding the inlet hose and remove the hose. (I used pliers to loosen the clamp) Remove the elbow from the old valve and reattach to the new valve. (Use teflon tape around the threads) Reverse the Process. Check for leaks. Piece of Cake. Part was an exact fit.

unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet, then I flipped dishwasher on it's side. loosen pump motor bracket arm on the end of the motor. loosen pump motor to pump conecter hose clamp and then unscrewed pump motor connector from dishwasher. To install I did the reverse. very easy.

Removed top panal found broken parts and pieces, replaced spring and plastic spring holder. Straightened out and reattached drum front boot.