38768RBWWRBS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the broken frame, glass, and bins from the refrigerator, cleaned the area, put the new frame in place making sure it was fitted into the brackets securely, and replaced the glass and bins into their proper slots.

Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long

Removed old fan and replaced the fan with new one.
2 years ago, the refrigerator was under warranty and tech replaced the fan but I found that the fan was not the original spec fan. Apparently, the fan that the tech replaced did not fit opening.

Now, my refrigerator works no problem. Save a ton of $$$ by doing it myself. Do not have to buy a new fridge and this one works perfect.

First I removed the left condensor fan motor bracket nut, loosened the right motor bracket, dropped the moter bracket down freeing the motor from the rubber grommets.
Pulled the fan off from the motor shaft, pressed the new fan on the shaft and installed new grommets. Replaced the motor bracket and tightened the right bracket nut and checked fan for clearance and free spin. Reinstaled the left bracket nut. Turned on the refrigerator and checked fan for action. Everything worked great.
I did not know the fan replacement came with a compression ring already installed, so now I have an extra compression ring.

First I had to go to the hardware store to buy a star bit to remove the old screws ($1.09). I attached it to my quarter-inch drill and used it to remove the old screws. I then used those same screws to attach the new slide. Once I had the star bit, it was little more than a five-minute task.

I didn't call for repair iwas just order 2 pcs it's coming early morning in the next day I was happy 1hundred% I will recommend this company

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.

First, remove the cardboard cover on the back, lower portion of the refrigerator.

Next, locate the condensor fan motor assembly and blade. (Right side as you are facing)

Using a pliers, hold the shaft to keep it from turning and prevent damage to the motor. Using a screwdriver, slide the old ring compression on the blade shaft toward the motor (away from the fan blades) to loosen.

Remove old blade from the shaft by firmly grasping the motor shaft with a pliers (to prevent from damaging) and pull the blade assembly off.

Reverse the above steps to attach the new blade.

The original design is poor. The evaporator fan is mounted in an upright position just below the ice-maker. A plastic grate mounts over the fan assembly to allow for air circulation. Unfortunately, random chips of ice from the ice maker can fall into the fan, causing the fan to shear its blades. Replacement of the fan blade is relatively simple (accept for having to completely unload the freezer and remove all back covers, the ice-maker auger motor assembly, and the metal evaporator cover). In order to mimimze this from reoccuring, I installed a 1/4'' mesh metal screen over the exhaust ports on the cover. Thus far, this has worked well to keep ice chips out of the evaporator fan.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.