11080754000 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

The reason it took as long as it did was because the job is not in line as the work I normally do.
It would be a fairly easy job for an experienced repairman. (Taking the back off the washer was time consuming for me) The rest of the job was easy as the part was a perfect fit.
I remember having a problem blending hot/cold water for some time. Most recently, while washing a load the water did not want to shut off. I can't remember how I diagnosed the water not shuting off as a problem along with the water temp control, but it is now repaired.
With the new valve installed, water temp select is now OK and the water now shuts off as normal.

After taking the entire washer apart one time, we learned that we could take the top and front of the machine off only to repair it. I found Part-select online and with the model number locating the part was easy. It arrived within 3 days and with instructions I could easily replace the old part with a few tools. I spent dollars instead of hundreds for a new machine.

First I removed the softener bin by pulling it up and off, then I removed the plastic seal by pulling it up and out, then I removed the 1/2 inch bolt with a ratchet and extension, then I removed the upper and lower agitator assembly from the machine and seperated the two by putting my feet on the lower agitator to hold it to the floor and pulling the upper agitator fast and firmly.
Sitting on top of the lower agitator I found the dog ear assembly. I pulled the dog ear assembly off and removed the yellow cap and existing dog ears.
Assembly was reverse.

First I raised the top of the dryer(after unplugging the power cord) disconnected two wires to the front door switch and then removed two screws using a nutdriver. The front cover lifts up and while supporting the drum set the cover aside. Slide the belt off the drum and remove it. I then removed the two support roller tri rings and replaced the rollers and tri rings and reassymbled the dryer.
It was a very simple repair.

Thanks Mike

Removed capscrew in end of agitator shaft took cover off machine-[ unscrewed two screws holding down control panel, hinged back, pryed retaining clips out, rocked back machine cover.]
Removed motor mounting clips and pump hoses, swinging motor and pump out of the way. Removed 3 capscrews holding transmission, pulled transmission towards me removing agitator shaft, disassembled clutch assembly - removing one cirlip then another, installed new clucth parts in same order

flip machine back remove two spring clamps and hoses remove two spring clamps and water pump save $500.+on a new washer

Unplug power from wall.
Disconnected water lines
Tip Unit on it's side. (Recommend turning so motor is to the top side)
Disconnect Electrical connector and Hoses from the pump and motor.
Disconnect metal straps used to retain the motor to the transmission. (screwdriver to pry)
Remove old coupling pieces from transmission/motor(used a long screw driver, rock back and forth)
used air compressor to clean up electric motor
replace new coupling on motor and transmisison (may need hammer to tap into place)
set rubber bushing on transmission side (transmission shaft should be facing up at this point)
replace electric motor into place, making sure to line up bushing and motor mounts.
replace metal strap connectors between transmission / motor (this can be tricky, as the one in the back is hard to get at.)
replace electrical connectors and hoses
connect washing machine power and water and test

my dryer door didn't latch for over a year. We were accustom to proping large objects against it. a friend told me to look on line. The close up pictures and parts diagrams were awesome. It was here in 4 days . Now my family thinks I am a hero. The end

I pulled back off machine. A real pain. Not something you have to do although once the back is off, the whole cabinet just lifts off. Idealy: Remove agitator and reatiner clip, lay washer on it's side or face, Remove electrical connector form motor, remove two hoses from pump, (motor can be remove easily from transmission if desired. It's lighter), remove three 1/2" bolts, lift transmission w/clutch assembly out. Pay attention to orientation of flat washer and clip (remove). The cluch band is indside the silver cover. Pich together with pliers to relieve tension and lift out. There are three while pads that wear away and glaze over when they get too hot from slipping. Reassemble. Ths is from memory so I hope I didn't forget anything. Time to do it this way would probably only be 45 minutes.

one of ears that holds filter was broken leaving a small gap so lint went into duct work so i replaced the cover and filter is now held in place letting the filter do its job trapping the lint

I used a screwdriver to remove the old part and pushed the new part in with my fingers, it was very easy. If I could do it, anyone can. I was a lot cheaper then having a repair man come to house. I am very glad I found your site online, I will definitely be using your company again.

This is a relatively new washer and failed early. My previous whirlpool washer lasted 20 years without any repairs. 1. First inquired about the spin problem in partselect. Machine will not sping unless manualy forced then it will take off but weak. 2. Partselect suggested a clutch problem. Ordered the part that came fast. When I tried removing the shaft hub with a hammer and chisel it will not get loose so I opted ordering the special wrench to loosen the tub hub. 3. I put the machine on its back and loosened the pump retaining clips. Do not remove the hoses from the pump. Move the pump away from the motor shaft. Remove the motor electrical connector and set aside. 4. Remove the three bolts holding the gearbox-motor assemply and pull it out of the tub. 5. Put the assembly on a towelwith shaft up and remove the separator washer from the old clutch that is sitting on the gearbox. Then remove the c-retaining clip from the shaft. 6. Pry out the wire retaining clip from the clutch and pull the old clutch out of the shaft. 7. The clutch kit I ordered came with a plastic brake to clutch cam so I replaced it too, just remove the retainig clip from the brake that is at the bottom of the tub and replaced the part. 8. Installed the new clutch and the retaining clips in reverse order. Replace all parts that came with the kit. The new clutch spring was already in place. 9. Put the assembly back into the tub and re-install all the other items in the same order. It spins good now! 10. While replacing parts, methodically clean all the lint from the motor and from under the machine. The gearbox showed signs of leaking oil so its a question of cost. I left it there until it fails then I'll buy a new machine.

I removed 5 screws from the back of the top panel, removed the back panel, removed the start button from front of dryer, twisted the old start switch from the back, removed the two leads, reinstalled new part in reverse order. It was that simple! 15 minutes top. Dryer works fine. Gave me a chance to vacuum out all the dust bunnies and clean out the dryer vent pipe as well.
Thanks!

First I tried a new switch, This did not fix the problem. Then I replaced the Fuse in the back of the unit.

Replaced AGITATOR DIRECTIONAL COGS (4) looking instruction video . Replaced CLUTCH LINING KIT following video of this site "WASHER REPAIR-REPLACING THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY". Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER and NEUTRAL DRIVE ASSEMBLY as follow: 1)CLUTCH Assembly and motor removed, took the GEARCASE on a bench vise to hold in place and the long shaft up side. You can get help from other person to hold secured in place instead a vise.2)Following a youtube video I tested gearcase with a reversible drill using DIRECT DRIVE MOTOR COUPLING PART next To transmission side instead of electrical motor. Drill turning counter clockwise drive the long shaft oscillating (it agitate via agitator cogs). Drill turning clockwise run the exterior sleeved part around shaft (upper side of metal gear inside gearcase and fixed on top to clutch to get washer spin). My experience was didn't rotate so we had to take apart gearcase cover.3)Unscrewed and removed gearcase cover. Cover was sticked by old seal gasket so a screwdriver helped me to remove it.4)Cleaned joint removing old gasket.5)Repeating drill test I realized big nylon gear did'nt rotated and removed uppercut clip with pin pliers with care for not lose the pin. Removed the next washer, the plastic gear and found a plastic part with a tooth broken. This part is with NEUTRAL DRAIN ASSEMBLY so replaced assembly following part instructions. I recommend take pictures in order to reassemling and use ALLEN WRENCH 5/32'' inches.6)Fill up to half of gearcase with 16 ounces (about 1/2 of case) of gear oil supplied by PARTSELECT or automotive gear oil SAE 85w90 or SAE 90.7)Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER. HARD TO REMOVED AND REPLACE! Take care not break!. I had to use a piece of metal tube and a vise.8)Applied automotrice black seal gasket silicone around the cover joint and case.9) Replaced the cover and reversal instruction video.THANKS to this site I get excellent service and Enjoyed with my toy.