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11080754000 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11080754000
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Top door catch assembly had broken
It was so easy, that my wife did it the day we got the part before I got home from work. She wedged it out with a flat head screw driver and then pushed the new door catch assembly in with her thumb. Pretty simple, thanks for having parts like this available to the public!
Parts Used:
Door Catch
  • tony from prineville, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Washer would fill/empty but would not agitate nor spin
Unplugged power cord and disconnected water lines; note which is hot/cold. Washer was then tipped on its front. Discharge hose was disconnected. Washer was then rolled over onto its back as this would put the pump on top for much easier removal.

Pried off two clips attaching pump on motor using a flathead screwdriver. The rear clip was done by touch. Unplugged wiring plug from motor. Using an adjustable wrench (socket set would have worked better), remove two screws holding 2nd set of clips attaching motor on transmission. Then pried off clips.

Removed old coupling from transmission shaft and motor shaft, plus middle 6 hole widget thingy.

Installed new parts on transmission shaft and motor shaft with fingers pointing towards each other. Using a small hammer, tapped the parts onto each shaft. Placed 6 hole widget thingy on the transmission part, and then rotated motor so motor part would fit in remaining three holes.

Replaced clips to hold motor on transmission and reinstalled screws holding clips.

IMPORTANT: Replace motor wire now. I forgot to do this and after the tub was filled with water, realized that, and since the pump was also disconnected, could not get the water out. Had to get wife to hold washer up while I crawled underneath to reattach motor wire. Learn from my mistake!

Attach pump onto motor and replace clips. Double check everything is back in place.

Roll washer onto front side. Attach discharge hose. Tip washer back upright. Reconnect water. Reposition discharge hose and plug washer into power.

First try it smelled like something plastic was burning, but I think that was the old part shavings getting ground away.
Parts Used:
Direct Drive Motor Coupling
  • Ted from SOUTH MILWAUKEE, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Severe water leak
1) Unplugged electrical cord
2) Removed hot/cold water hoses
3) Took drain hose from laundry room recepatcle
4) Moved washing machine to area where I could lay it down on its back (very important for easy fix)
5) Found (easy accessible in my case) water pump with an inlet and outlet water hose held on with spring clamps.
6) Removed each of the two clamps with pliers and each hose by twisting loose
7) Remove two metal clips holding pump to motor housing
8) Slide pump off shaft - removal is finished!
9) Reversed process for installation, making sure to gently align pump housing when the pump is aligned with the shaft
[probably took less than 15 minutes]
Parts Used:
Direct Drive Water Pump
  • Noel from Pollock, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Water constantly dripped into washer when it was off.
Turned off water and pulled power plug, Then unscrewed hot and cold hoses from washer.
I took off the top control by undoing the 2 screws in front and then the two screws on the back plastic latches. Mover it forware and took off the 2 screws on the bottom of the back which came up and off easily. Undid the two screws holding the Water valve to the back and undid the water outlet tube and the wireing. Replaced with new valve and reattached tubing and wires. Screwed back on and reattached controls.
Actually was very easy even without repair manual to the washing machine.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve with Mounting Bracket
  • MARK from MARION, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
24 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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The dryer was running and it quit, just stopped. A friend looked at it and thought it was this switch. I purchased the switch and he installed and it still did not work.
No, if that had of been the problem, it would have worked. However, I called a service man out to look at it. It was a fuse that does not look like a fuse. I had the system already torn apart and cleaned. The service took a meter and checked the fuse ( that did not look like a fuse) and it was bad. It cost 14.00 for the fuse, it took less than 5 minutes for installation and the service fee was $65.00. My advise, get a meter, check everything yourself, and only purchase what you need.
Parts Used:
Push-To-Start Switch - 2 Terminal
  • Debbie from Mooresville,, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
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Agitator was locked up
I had a little difficulty at first, trying to remove the back of the unit. I then figured out that the repair was to be made by leaning the washer back and removing it from underneath. That became really easy as the bottom is open.I had to remove one nut and then the agitator from inside, then tilt the machine back, disconnect the two hoses from the pump, remove three bolts and lower the motor/ transmission assembly. Then I had to disconnect the motor from the pump ( with two snap on clips) and remove the broken plastic coupling. The new coupling had a metal insert that seems to make it stronger than the original piece.I then just reversed the procedure to put it together again and it worked fine. The part was shipped immediately and I got it sooner than I expected so I greatly appreciate that. Overall it went well, and by the way, it was my daughters washer and she was happy as well.Thanks, Roger
Parts Used:
Direct Drive Motor Coupling
  • Roger from Palmyra, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Motor was working and rotating lower portion of agitator, but the top was not spinning.
1. Remove the fabric softener receptacle

2. Remove the plastic dome shaped separator with a rubber o-ring around it (directly beneath fabris softener receptacle)

3. There is an 11mm bolt right in the center. Use socket wrench to remove bolt.

4. Remove agitator from washign machine.

5. Separate top half of agitator from bottom half (this was the most difficult part for me; unlike others who have described this repair, mine would not simply pull apart; I spent quite a while trying to pry up the white plastic clips extending from the bottom piece through the clear plastic piece that covers the "dog teeth" that make the top piece agitate)

6. Once apart, replace worn "dog teeth" with new dog teeth.

7. Put back together in reverse order.
Parts Used:
Agitator Cam Kit
  • Brad from Boise, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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In the spin cycle, drum would'nt spin unless assisted
First off unplug the machine then turned off H/C water supply and removed hoses, laid the machine on its side, removed 3 motor supp. bolts, loosened drum pulled out shaft and clutch assembly was right there. Also replaced coupling while it was apart. And to think, a svce company wanted 179.00 just to walk in my door and diagnose the pblm. Then, parts and labor were extra. Thanks for the help/advice, piece of cake!!!!!!!
Parts Used:
Direct Drive Motor Coupling Clutch Assembly
  • ANTHONY from NY, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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Tub was out of balance
went by the instution in the box with the part went very well thanks
Parts Used:
Tub Spring Suspension Spring - Kit of 3
  • Delbert from Morgantown, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Cog stripped causing agitator to not turn
Removed top cap on agitator w/ flathead screwdriver. Removed protective cap over bolt and cog housing shaft. Used 7/16 deep socket w/ extension to remove bolt. Removed housing where stripped cogs were located. Cogs seated loosely in shaft housing no tools required to remove cogs. Replaced cogs in housing, made sure everything was lined correctly. re-inserted housing into shaft. ,screwed bolt, replaced caps and works like new.
Parts Used:
Agitator Directional Cogs
  • Vicki from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench set
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valves allowed water to overflow during the rinse cycle, sometimes took forever to fill.
I removed the screws holding the control unit down, removed a couple at the rear,
Disconnected the electrical clip that plugs into the top, under the control unit.
This allows enough slack to pivot it ( the control unit) upside down and get it out of the way enough to remove the spring clips that hold the top to the back.
Popped out the two clips that hold the back to the top.
Pulled the back out, up until the plastic soap dispenser , (which is attached to the back) hits under the lip of the top.
This does not allow enough room to get to the valves.
I finally figured out you have to lift the entire top up high enough to clear the back while pulling it ( the back) out.
Disconnected the hose clamp, electric connectors, installed the new valves into the supplied mounting plate replaced the valves .
Re -connected the hose and electric connectors and re assembled the back.
The only problem I had was when one of the spring retainers that hold the back to the top popped off and fell inside the unit, which forced me to remove everything including the back bottom screws, which caused the sides to pop off, the mounting ears , which are attached to the back,
Took some finesse but finally retrieved the spring clamp and finished everything back together.
It was a bit tricky keeping the plastic gaskets between the back and the sides from falling inside as I reassembled it.
But all is well, and would have been more difficult without the expierence written by others who posted, on the site.
Thank you to all, for the help.
I hope my efforts will help someone else.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve with Mounting Bracket
  • Sam from Robertsville, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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In the middle of changing loads there was snapping and sound and drum stopped turning.
I was hopeful it was the belt. But, I had no idea how to get to it. I used the model no. and looked on line for pats and schematics. That gave me a sense of what to do. I started at the rear and removed the back panel. It was like peeling an onion because then, I wasn't sure what to remove next. So I just kept removing nut head screws until eventually I had loosened the sides, removed the top and discovered the front lifted up and off (no screwed attachment.) There's grounding wire that must be detached. Don't forget to re-attach. Without proper grounding you could be electocuted! I was careful to remember how it was attached. To get to the pulley, which is on the front, I had to remove the drum. I found the snapped belt. The pulley is held in place by tension from the belt so, once the belt goes the pulley detaches. I tried to find the belt locally the following week but was unsuccessful. I found the part on-line and had it in four days. It was tricky getting the belt and pulley in place. I persevered.
The parts ( I replaced the fliter that needed replacement for years too) came with installation instructions. Its possible I did not have to disassemble as much as I did. Oh well! Although I'm fairly mechanical, I'm still pretty proud to have been able to do it and save the cost of a repairman.
Parts Used:
Dryer Lint Filter and Cover Multi Rib Belt
  • William from Glen Burnie, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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The spin gear was striped.
I had to take the motor and transmission out. They are one piece. Removed the clutch, take off trans. cover, remove a snap ring, take the striped gear off, and put the new one on. Then put put everything back on the way it came off.
Parts Used:
Gearcase
  • Aaron from Lake Mills, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
21 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
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Although the motor was running, washer wouldn't agitate or spin.
After disconnecting the electrical supply, first remove the two screws at either end of the control panel and fold it back away from the washer top. Then, unplug the electrical lid switch connection. Now, remove the two clips at either end on top to disconnect the housing from the washer back and chassis. The motor is sandwiched between the water pump in the front and transmission at the rear. The Direct Drive Coupling connects the rear motor shaft to the transmisson. After you have taken the outter portion of the washer off, remove the two snap clips that hold the water pump in place and slide the pump off the front shaft. Best to also disconnect the upper hose connection so the pump can be moved out of the way. Caution though, remaining water in tub will drain out. Now remove the two screws that hold the clips in place which secure the motor to the transmission. Careful, as the old Direct Drive Coupling is probably destroyed, the clips are the only thing holding the motor in place and the motor needs to be supported so it won't drop to floor when the clips are removed. Be careful not to lose the four rubber grommets which sit between the motor and transmission bracket. After motor is on floor remove the old plastic slip-on direct drive coupling discs from both the motor and transmission shafts. The new replacement discs have steel centers which do not slide onto the shafts as easily as the old plastic ones did. I had to tap the center steel portion onto the shafts using a hammer and a deep wall socket the same width as the steel portion of the disc. Be careful! I'm sure that tapping the plastic portion of the disc to properly seat it on the shaft will break it away from the steel portion. In my case, It took me several attempts to completely seat the new discs. I had to do quite a bit of tapping to get the discs seated far enough onto the shafts so that the motor slipped easily against the transmission bracket grommets and the retainer clips snapped back into place easily. Reassembly is simply reversing the steps you took when taking the unit apart. Before putting the outter housing back in place, I checked to make sure everything was running smoothly by jumping out the electrical snap-in connection for the lid switch and running the machine in the spin cycle. Remember, if you don't jump out the lid switch and just try to test the unit in the aggitate cycle, the machine has to first fill with water.
Parts Used:
Direct Drive Motor Coupling
  • Thomas from Commack, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer drum would not stop spinning when door was opened
This dryer is a stackable washer/dryer. I removed all the buttons on the front panel along with the panel. I then was able to lift the front of the door and reach in to the door switch and plug. I unscrewed the old part, installed the new one. I then put the front panel and face plate back into position and screwed them back to the dryer casing. Lastly I put the knobs back on. I was extremely impressed at how easy it was to order and how quick the part came to my house. I am very satisfied with the service and the price and will use this site again in the future.
Parts Used:
Door Switch
  • Debra from Clarksburg, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
26 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the 11080754000
46 - 60 of 1536