11028012011 Kenmore Washer - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The main knob insert snapped.
Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.
Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.
Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.
Parts Used:
-
Larry from HICKORY, NC
-
Difficulty Level:Very Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
11 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Wouldn’t drain pump made loud noise
Removed old drain pump and found a sock in the inlet - must have burned out pump because after removing it pump was still defective. Installed new pump in about 30 minutes and off to the races no more issues
Parts Used:
-
REED from BUCHANAN, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
10 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
wash machine walked
-
Elzoria from FROSTPROOF, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
replaced drain hose that was missing
slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys
Parts Used:
-
Delmar from EAST TROY, WI
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Pliers
12 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Shaking extreme
-
Barbara from RICHMOND, IN
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Socket set
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
I followed the video guide, which was excellent
I followed the instructions, however I did not have a spot to hold the bar temporarily, so I drilled a hole in the corner frame to hook them in at the front of the machine. All else was easy and according to the video.
Machine works great now.
Machine works great now.
Parts Used:
-
Richard from NAPLES, FL
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
washer wasn't spinning after rinsing but the motor was running
I had taken the time to watch videos of this repair so when the switch arrived I knew what I had to do. Removing the screws to get the back cover off was simple as was installing the switch. No tricks here just watch the videos and your all set to do the job
Parts Used:
-
Terry from HANCOCK, MD
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
When washer would go into spin cycle it would shake violently. This also prevented the spin cycle from completing leaving clothes soaked
Followed videos sent with the repair items. It was very easy and solved my issue. My washer did not have the centering springs to begin with so I was unsure if I even needed them. But after replacing all the suspension rods and adding the pack of centering springs this has solved my issues
Parts Used:
-
Jonathan from NEW BRAUNFELS, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Making noise when spinning tub hit side of washer.
Remove top of washer suspension
Rod goes on side of tub .
Rod goes on side of tub .
Parts Used:
-
Ernestine from CARRIERE, MS
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Socket set
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Rock and roll on spin
Replaced the suspension rods.
Must be done on its side as the rods only pull down. There is no slot.
Must be done on its side as the rods only pull down. There is no slot.
Parts Used:
-
Bruce from LANDENBERG, PA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Loose pulley
Tightened up the pulley as the video showed me that might be the issue.
Parts Used:
-
Joseph from BAKER, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
Parts Used:
-
TERRY from WAUKEE, IA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
8 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
heavy loads did not spin dry properly
I followed the instructions provided by the video which I thought were spot on. Even to the size of the phillips screw driver.
Parts Used:
-
Chet from CLEARWATER, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Very Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Washer was out of balance on spin cycle
I do not know much about washer repair and after watching how to replace the suspension rods I decided it was not as difficult as I thought. I replaced the suspension rods and springs and that fixed the problem. The price for parts was reasonable and I received my parts in 2 days.
Parts Used:
-
Charles from Grizzly Flats, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The wash cycle made a loud grinding noise when it went from filling to wash.
I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
Parts Used:
-
Angelo from PORTLAND, ME
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!