11028012011 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Removed back panel four screws, removed two nuts holding valve, unclip electrical connectors and replace with new one.
Remember to turn off power before starting Repairs.

The info. was really helpful

I simply followed Steve's instructions on video. Very easy repair. Washer works great, no jumping or vibrating.

Watched video and followed instructions. Removed rods from top cups, laid washer on its side and pulled them out. Put new rods thru, stood washer up and hooked them in. Was pretty easy, tube heavy but I'm 52 and I did it myself.
My only problem is there's no springs anywhere attaching rods to tub and I cannot find any info on 1. IF I need them 2. What kind I need. I sent email to partselect last week inquiring and still waiting to hear.

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!

Watched the video. It was by far the easiest repair I've ever done. The washer is happy and stays in it place

Once we put the washer on it's side noticed lots of oil on the floor and in the belt cover area. Replaced belt anyway but issue is the leaking transmission. Starting warranty process since Maytag carries a 10-year part warranty and machine is 6.5 years old. Wish me luck !!!

Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.

The part we needed wasn’t pictured — nor the quantity identified. There are 4 absorbers required for full replacement. I received one absorber — 3 1/2 inches X 1 1/2 inch wide X 1/8 inch thick. Including shipping, the cost was $53.00!! Outrageous! A 10 foot roll of the same thing can be bought online for less than $20.00.

By the way, it didn’t solve the problem.

Paul

Took the Cover off and installed belt.

Replaced the suspension rods

The video posted on this site will walk you right through the repair. Great service. Thanks!

Followed video on your web site, and used that for ways to fix, good directions. If I was more organized it prob would of taken about an hour or less

This washer would not go into spin cycle without going out of balance no matter how we arranged the contents in the drum. We were looking to buy a front loader when I happened open this company with video instructions and positive comments from other people with the same issue. For the cost it was worth a try. Following the video and in less than one hour the washer was back in service. It now operates like the day we installed it new. Highly recommend this fix which should save you hundreds on a new washer.

I removed the back access panel and what was left of the capacitor mounting device (the capacitor (or what was left of it) was laying against the access panel). I mounted the new capacitor which had a metal strap for mounting. I removed the small, black, wire mounting device that was still plugged in to the old capacitor and slipped the wires through that device. After reviewing how to reattach the wires (it turned out the polarity on my capacitor did not matter) I plugged the wires in using the wire mounting device. Once I closed it back up everything worked fine.