Rear Drum Support Roller Kit

The best part of my repair was I had everything back in service in 3 days. And one of these days was to consider just buying a new dryer. Had parts overnited and all parts fit and easy to replace.

1) Removed back - 6 screws
2) Removed dryer vent - 2 screws on top, 3 on bottom
3) Popped the top open
4) Removed Front of dryer cabinet - 2 screws
5) Removed Belt
6) Removed Drum
7) Cleaned up all lint
8) Pop off motor retainers front and back
Here is the tricky part for me.
9) Removed vent fan on back of motor.
I did not know that the back of the fan was square, and you could put an open ended wrench on it to hold it while you also have a vice grip on the front motor shaft. Then its a simple left to loosey operation. I first tryed to turn the fan blade to take it off, but proved to be to tight.
10) Repeat backwards to reassemble

While I had it apart I also replaced the Drum support rollers & Installed a new belt. Not that diffucult of a repair Good Luck, was certainly better than buying a new one at + $300.00 at Black Friday rates.

My wife had been complaing about excessive noise from our 25 year old dryer so after DISCONNECTING the dryer from the wall outlet I popped the top panel loose @ the front with a screw driver @ each front corner @ took a look. No cause was visible so I removed the rear cover & still nothing so I laid the dryer on it's back to remove the front cover. First the 2 wires to the door switch were disconnected then the 2 screws @ the top corners that hold the front panel to the side panels were removed. The front panel then slid up & lifted off exposing the front of the drum, belt & support pulleys. Upon inspection I found the bottom support pulley sleeve bearing to have worn out. Both pulleys were replaced because they only come as a pair now along with the tensioner pulley (idler pulley), the belt & the rear lip seal on the drum since it had a 4" section missing from the edge @ one point (all of these were the original components). Replacing the rear drum seal took the most time because the old adhesive had to be removed. I did this first so the glue could set while I installed the new pulleys & belt. By the time they were installed, the glue had set enough & I could continue the re-assembly.
We now have a 25 year old dryer that sounds like it's new & @ a fraction of the cost

I Looked on internet sites for this type of problem.
Most sites said the support rollers could cause this.
I found your site PartSelect and with help of your diagrams of the machine ordered the parts I thought were needed plus other parts that might cause the problem.
With machine torn down I replaced the rollers.
I had also ordered the main drive belt and idler assembly with the rollers and these also needed replacement. It is a good idea to order other suspect parts when doing this type of repair since you can return the parts not needed.
Your return policy is great.

Edward Brennan

Very easy once I figured out how to open it up to see what was the matter.
1 Remove power.
2 Open the lint filter cover and remove the 2 Phillip screws.
3 Pry the front of the top cover up to separate the cover from the plastic clips that secure to the top front panel.
4 Remove the 2 nut screws securing the top of the front panel to each side cover.
5 Pull front panel out slightly to detach wiring from the cover switch.
6 Pull front panel straight up and set aside.
7 Remove drum belt from tensioner and motor pulley under the drum.
8 Remove drum by pulling it toward the front between the 2 sides.
9 Locate the 2 support rollers and their mounting shafts. Change the shafts at this point if they are worn. (Mine were OK)
10 Remove the support bracket from the shaft if present.
11 Remove the plastic triangular retainer from the shaft and slide the old wheel off of the shaft.
12 Clean the shaft from any bearing debris.
13 Replace the rollers and retainers.
14 Insert drum through the front side panels making sure the seal on the rear of the drum is centered around the opening and not folded inside the opening.
15 Place the belt on the drum and thread the belt through the tensioner and around the motor pulley.
16 Position the front cover on the lower clips on each of the sides.
17 Re-attach the 2 wires for the cover switch.
18 Pull the drum up so the opening on the drum and front cover align.
19 Screw together the side panels to the front panel using the 2 hex headed screws.
20 Check for binds by rotating the drum several times by hand.
21 Press the front of the top panel down toward the front panel to engage the plastic clips attaching the top to the front. Watch for the lint filter housing alignment as you push the top panel down.
22 Replace the 2 screws to attach the lint filter to the top cover.
23 Plug in machine and test.

Good luck, It s not as bad as it sounds.

Dryer was making a thump-thump sound as it turned and door had to be held shut with a prop rod or it would pop open all the time.

First I reviewed the exploded diagrams of my model on the PartSelect website. I kept referring to it as I went.

Two screws held the console down, I removed those and disconnected all the wiring to the console and set the console aside. I popped the top from the front after removing the ground wire that the console had hidden. Oops ... forgot the screws holding the filter enclosure to the top panel. I removed them, then the top came off of the rear hinge-like things.

I turned the drum by hand and confirmed that it was "thump-thumping". There were two internal screws that held the front panel and door to the side panels, I removed them and then the front panel/door assembly buckled away from the drum slightly. I had to disconnect the wires from the door switch and remove the wire retainer from the front panel.

The front panel/door lifted slightly and came off of retainers to the side panels near the floor. The drum was now suspended on the two rollers, belt tensioner pulley, and motor pulley. I removed the belt from the tensioner and motor and removed the drum.

I could see that one of my drum support wheels had a chunk melted or gashed out of it. Every time the divoted portion contacted the drum, it made a thump. I also noticed all the stuff that the kids had dumped in the dryer by lifting the front of the top panel, thinking it was a good hiding spot. The stuff included crayons, beads, assorted spare change, and a package of peanuts that had broken open.

I took this opportunity to vacuum out the interior of the dryer. Wow.

One of drum support roller axles has a front support. Both are bolted into the interior panel with a washer and nut. I wanted to remove both axles to replace the support wheels, so I crawled behind my dryer (by climbing over my washing machine).

I had to remove the flexible vent and the rear panel cover to access the roller axle nuts. But one of the axle nuts was covered by the dryer filter enclosure, so I had to take it loose. Boy am I glad that I did. It was chock full of caked together lint and more crud that the kids had shoved down the filter hole when the filter wasn't in place. I cleaned it and removed the axle nuts.

I had to remove and replace these funky little plastic triangles that acted as retainers for the drum support wheels. It was difficult and I eventually had to use pliers to help. I swapped drum support wheels, installed the new plastic triangles and reinstalled the axles, filter enclosure, back panel, and flexible duct (this involved all sorts of tools and several trips back and forth over my washing machine).

I installed the drum, making sure the felt was not bent the wrong way and that the drum support wheels were in the drum groove. To rethread the drum belt I had to lay on the ground and hold the drum in position with my foot while guiding the belt with two hands. Once the belt was properly threaded, the drum would dangle in position, but I used the prop rod to support if firmly while I worked on the front panel.

The front panel was in sorry shape. I replaced both hinges, cleaned the area between the door and the front panel that cannot be reached easily, and replaced the door support wires and guides, reattaching their springs. I also replaced the door retention hardware. (Note: pliers recommended by my poor cut fingers).

I installed the front panel to the side panels by sliding it onto the two lower supports while holding the drum in position. I reconnected the door switch and wire retainers. I screwed the upper screws from the side panels to the front panel.

I popped the top panel back in place, routing the wiring through and reconnecting the grounds. I rewired the console and slid it back into position. I screwed down the console and reattached the filter enclosure to the top panel.

I plugged it in, turned it o

We discovered that the front of the dryer popped off after removing screws at the bottom of the front panel.
The tumbler seal had rotted away, the drum support rollers were frozen and the belt had broken. My husband did most of the work. I assisted, this was a 2 man job. We removed the old seal glue with Goo Gone, we put the new seal on with both of us working on it using clothes pins. Then we glued the new seal with one of us holding the seal up while the other put the glue under it. My husband replaced the drum support rollers, got the idler pulley ready and put the belt around the drum. He lifted and I guided the tumbler (drum) into position. I held the drum while he installed the idler pulley assembly. I kept holding the drum while he got the front panel, put it in position and re-connected the electrical wires on it. Once we had that done he was able to install the front panel. Then came the moment for the test drive, and what do you know but it worked!! We didn't have to spend $$ for a new dryer, it cost us some time (probably around 5 hours total, taking apart, ordering parts and putting together), and a little over $100!! We were happy!

Remove back cover
Raise top
Remove filter assembly
Remove front cover and drum

Tip: Use an end wrench on the fan and another on the pully shaft of the motor to remove fan from motor prior to removing motor from cradle.

Vacuum everything while disassembled

Remember to take your time and not force anything and this will go smooth.

Following the instructions that came with the parts, I removed the top off of the dryer, which was very easy, two more 5/16" screws and I had the drum out. I confess, this was my second time at this repair. 1st time I neglected to replace the rear drum seal which I strongly recommend you do while you have it open. I only replaced the 2 wheels last time and it failed very soon afterwards.
Lesson Learned: Always replace the rear drum seal when you replace the support wheels!!!

replaced motor and drum rear seal as well as idler wheels, the old rear drum seal was completly worn out, since I had it all apart, I replaced lint chute and trap seals and belt and tensioner. I spent less money on parts than if I would have bought a new dryer. The motor was the main problem as the bearings were shot.

Followed the simple directions provided. Suggest dis-assembling the dryer before ordering the parts as it was then I discovered that the idler wheel was bad and the belt was cracking. The idler wheels should be replaced in pairs. When the unit is dis-assembled is an excellent opportunity to vacuum out the lint from all of the interior areas of the dryer. The new motor wiring was different from the old motor. The instructions should be more clear as the old motor wires were not marked. There were two red wires and two black wires in the motor wire harness. Since I have prior experience with motors I was be to determine which of the red and black wires were the primary power leads - someone with less experience may have a problem with this. Suggest changing one wire at a time and install the motor in the motor mount until the wires have been installed.