High Limit Kit

1. Unplug dryer from power outlet
2. Lift dryer top from front (hinged in rear). Just friction holding top down. Use flat scewdriver wrapped in cloth to help lift.
3. Locate heating element - rear top behind drum
4. Unplug red wires to the high limit thermal fuse
5. Unplug red wires to the heating element
6. Unlug white wires to the high limit fuse
7. Remove high limit thermal fuse
8. Remove heating element
9. Remove high limit fuse
10 Clean heating box
Installation is reverse order but do the following first!
Clean lint trap - Remove front of dryer
1. Unplug white door switch wires. inside front top right
2. remove two screws securing the front of dryer - inside front top left and top right. Front of dryer is hinged at bottom
3. Clean all the lint you can find. If you have never cleaned out the lint, there might be a lot and the cause of over heating (shorting fuse life). Add to your yearly things to do list.
4. While your at it check the alignment of the plastic glides the drum sits on.
5. Also check the foam gasket between the fan housing and lint trap. Mine was off a bit. Realigned with doubled sided tape.

The first issue I had was diagnosing the problem, but after researching on the internet I was able to determine that the High Limit Switch caused the Thermal Fuse to blow. I found instructions on how to check the Thermal Fuse with an Ohm Meter, which was bad. This was a simple test. I removed the Thermal Fuse from the machine and tested it by using my Ohm Meter on the continuity setting. The instruction said that the fuse should always be closed and have continuity. Simply put, its like having a light switch in the on position. I put the leads from the Ohm Meter on the two connectors of the Thermal Fuse and found that there was no current passing through it, telling me that it was bad and needed replacing.
The bigger issue for me was what caused the Thermal Fuse to go bad in the first place, which was evident after I opened the dryer to check the part. The dryer was full of lint. Now understand that the lint that was inside the dryer was just a dusty coating, but I am one of those people that when he takes something apart and it is dirty I have to clean it before I put it back together, which payed off for me.
I removed the front panel to make it easier to clean the machine. This is when I noticed that the lint trap was almost completely blocked. Most people like me just before starting a load will clean the lint screen, but we never think that over time some of that lint gets by the screen and has to go somewhere. Well in this machine this happened and eventually clogged the tunnel leading out of the machine, which caused the machine to not be able to breath, which caused the heating element to overheat and blow the Thermal Fuse. I also used this time to inspect the rest of the machine, which again payed off.
During my inspection I found that the belt was beginning to fray, the drum seals were starting to tear and the pads under the drum glides had started to fall out, so I decided to order all the parts and refurbish the machine.
While I was waiting on the parts to arrive I disassembled the machine and cleaned everything and removed the old parts.
The first step I took was to clean out the lint tunnel on the front panel of the machine. To do this I first had to remove the front drum seal which is held on using a double sided tape. I then opened the door and removed the two screws that held the tunnel in place. I then removed the tunnel from the front panel and was able to remove all the lint that was clogged inside. This tunnel also has a foam seal, which is used to seal it against the front panel stopping the lint from escaping into the inside of the dryer compartment, which I also replaced. It was easy to install as it comes with a self adhesive backing. The next step was to reassemble these parts in the reverse order that I took them apart. This is where I ran into my first setback. Reinstalling the tunnel was not a problem but, when I went to install the felt drum seal I found that it did not come with a self adhesive backing and I had no way to secure it on the machine. So I had to go the next day and purchase some double sided tape which I used to attach the seal.
The next thing I did was to remove the drum from the machine. I did this by reaching inside the machine and releasing the belt off the tensioner. I then took hold of the front of the drum and lifted it slightly while pulling it towards me which allowed it to pop off the rollers which the back side of the drum rides on. I then removed the felt seal from the back side of the machine. This seal was a little more difficult to remove as the factory glues this seal in place. I cleaned this surface and reattached the felt seal using the double sided tape.
The next step was to replace the front drum glides. These glides are a two part component. The first part is a Teflon coated glide and the second part is a felt pad that goes underneath it. I removed the old parts, cleaned the surfaces and reinstalled the glides in the reverse order.

Lifted the top lid, removed hold down screws removed wires, replaced old components, easy as pie, perfect match for parts!

Popped the two latches at the front of the machine inorder to raise the lid/cover. Found the part just above and behind the drum. Removed the screws, disconnected the wires and replaced the parts. I did have to remove the heating coils, but that was easy too. No wonder the Maytag repair man has nothing to do! Thank you Partselect.com. Not only did you ship the part to my house fast, but it was just as expensive if not cheaper than going out for it. Plus, I found instructions for the repair on your forums. Thanks again, you have a customer for life!

I removed the top and front panel. I first cleaned all the lint from the bottom of the lint trap which clogged the vent and caused the dryer to overheat. Then I replaced the high limit thermostat and thermal fuse. Bingo!! Worked good as new.

This repair could not have been easier. I went to the web site, answered a few questions and read a few examples of the repair, ordered the parts suggested and in a few days the parts arrived at my home. I opened the top of my dryer with a long handled screw driver, as suggested in the instructions, and vacuumed out the lint around the part. I called my handy son who brought over the correct tools and we followed the instructions sheet that came with the part and repaired my dryer in about 15 minutes total. It works just as it should and I am so happy. I only paid $39.00 including Shipping and Handling to repair my Maytag dryer and it works like new. Thanks to PartSelect.com! I don't think I'll ever call a repair service again.

I checked this site and determined all of the possible causes. I watched the video when available. I checked prices on a replacement set ($2300.00) if I got what I really wanted but decided to tackle the repairs myself and save $2100.00. My only mistake was becoming distracted when testing the timer resistor before placing my order and not knowing where to connect the replacement. I ended up paying for assistance online ($24.00). It was much cheaper then replacing my washer and dryer or even calling a service person out for help. I applaud the services offered at this site and would recommend it to friends and family.

Raise the top of the dryer. This exposed the elements in the back. Removed old elements,paying attention to where the wires go.
Installed new elements, hooked the wires up, and I was done.

First off, the parts were exactly what I needed and arrived at my front door in less than 48 hours.
The repair was quite easy. 1. access the "guts" by popping the two clipps and open top panel like a car hood.2. remove the high temp doohickie with a nut driver, one screw, two wires.3. Remove the heating element from its mount. 4. remove the high temp fuse doohickie, By popping off its wires and little retaining bracket. 5. do steps (in this order) 5-1 replacing new parts. 6. spend three hours looking for the dryer brush, you know you have somewhere, to clean 5 years of accumulated lint out of the lint trap.7. drive to Ace, by dryer brush. 8. (most important step) clean the lint trap, or be forced to repeat steps 1-5. 9. Pop a cold one and relish the peace and quiet, devoid of spousal nagging to fix the damn dryer. 10. Take down clothesline in backyard.

Very easy repair. Just needed to remove some screws to access the heating element area. The fuses are (1) just above the elements and (2) to the right side of them (if facing from the front). Alittle loosening with a philips screwdriver, removing blown fuses, replace with new fuses, tighten new fuses in place, replace outer screws and job done. Also made sure to fully clean lint collection area. I had a good amount stuck in there and it restricted air flow which caused the fuses to blow. It took 6 years worth of drying to make it happen.