High Temperature Adhesive - 2oz.

After removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place , I could easily see the areas I needed to work in .Also , I removed the two screws securing the top panel and raised it a few inches . I saw how the damper pads were worn away . I removed the 3 dampering springs by removing the eyebolts and the base mounting nuts . After the dampering springs are removed , the washing drum can be lifted up off the bottom .Just lean the machine towards the rear and place a 4x4 lumber under the big pulley on the bottom and allow the machine to slowly come forward again resting on the lumber .I followed the instructions supplied and cleaned the excess dirt and debris away from the pad mounting areas . I applied the glue as instructed and allowed it to dry . A little dexterity was needed but the new pads easily went into position . After allowing a little more glue time ,I removed the 4x4 lumber from the bottom and lowered the machine .I installed new centering springs and tightened the eyebolts to thier original positions .I secured the top and the front panels and performed a couple test cycles . perfect , no vibration at all. like new . I replaced the two drive belts on the bottom because they had never been replaced and they definitely showed wear . Another test and I was completed in around 2 hours .

I was replacing the rear drum support wheels and the felt gasket in the back of the drum.
Since I had this done by a repairman last time 6 years ago for $180 I decided to try it myself this time. First, this job isn't hard, just very inconvenient to do.
You have to remove the drum by taking off the front panel of the dryer. Then lift up slightly on the drum and remove. Then you unscrew the existing drum support wheels in the back and replace. The instructions for installing the new drum wheels are in the package with the wheels. Replace both even if one looks ok. The trick to getting the retaining clips on is to get them placed on the groove in the front of the wheel shaft and use plyers to clamp down on the clip and shaft - then they just snap into place.

The other thing I replaced was the felt gasket at the rear of the drum. Getting the old worn one off was easy. Scrape off as much of the old adhesive as you can, clean with some Goo Gone or similar adhesive remover and dry. I used the hi-temp adhesive from this website to attach the new felt gasket - this stuff is runny! If it gets on your hands or other surfaces, miner spirits or goo gone will get it off. I found it easier to apply a bit to the felt then hold it on the while the stuff started curing (a few minutes). Once you have glued the felt all the way around the drum, let it sit for an hour or so before trying to put the drum back on. Before you reinstall the drum, gently fold over the felt toward the back of the machine so it forms a "U" shape. Then carfully put the drum back on, making sure you have it sitting on the new wheels. Since the felt is new, you will have to work the drum a bit to get it seated evenly on the wheels and the new gasket.

Since there were no instruction on the tube of hi-temp adhesive about cure time, I waited a full day before running the dryer. It's been a week and 4 loads of laundry later and everything is running fine. I saved about $120.

The instructions that came with the damper pads were pretty clear. I moved the washer to the garage so I had room to work and lay it over on it's back when I needed to. Of course, some water came out of the washer so have some towels.

There was a bit of a problem with unscrewing the nuts on the eyebolts. I expected a nut and a backing nut, but in fact the "backing" nut is attached. Took me a little while to figure that out.

The hint about the electrical tape was useful to be able to screw the nut back to the original position.

The only real problem was in putting the adhesive on the metal. It was too messy and hard to see, so I put the adhesive on the pad and when the glue was tacky, I placed the pad carefully on the metal. Getting the back pad properly placed required a mirror inside the cabinet. I let things dry for 2 hours before I put on the silicon grease.

Make sure all the electrical connections are in place before screwing the top back on. The hot water electrical connection came off during the work and I did not notice it until i was checking the operation of the washer...had to take the top off again and use long handled needle nose pliers to put it back on.

The washer works fine now....no squeaks.

The job is a little bit of a hassle, but just follow the instructions. It is within the capability of anyone who can turn a socket and poke a hole in the cap of the glue.

Thanks to this website we were able to not only find the parts, but a video that told us how to take the dryer apart. Unfortunately, between the time we diagnosed the problem, ordered the parts, and they arrived, the drum had worn into the front bulkhead. We were able to file the sharp parts dull and install the brackets, felt pads, and drum glides along with the felt seal, but ended up breaking the dryer door switch. Once that came in, it has been working. I'm not sure how long the repair will last, but it was much better than buying a new one.

Very easy repair. I took off the bottom fromt panel with a nut driver. Then I took off the face/door panel. Take note of the wires that need to come off by marking them with a sharpie or tape. The top of the dryer can be stood up to allow access to the ductwork that has the felt pad on it. The felt pad was worn through in spots, the drum glide was completely gone and both cylinder glide brackets were almost completely worn through. I just replaced the brackets and the pads. The old felt came off fairly easily. I scraped the old glue for the felt off with a knife and cleaned and dried the surface before applying the hi temp adhesive. I waited 1 minute while the glue became tacky (be careful, the glue starts out thin and tends to run) and the felt pad was easily put back in place with my wife's help. Everything was very simple and it cost $87.00 for parts and shipping. I felt that this should be a good investment since I have had no other problems with this dryer and this is normal wear and tear. Better than paying $600+ for a new dryer. The video for changing the felt pad was very detailed and easy to follow as well.

This repair may seem daunting to your average non-professional repairman (certainly did for me) but, it's really not too bad. Additional items that you will find useful are a 4"x4"x12" block of wood, Acetone, Wire Brush, Sturdy Cloth, Gloves. First step is to disconnect the water and power and move washer to a suitable work area. Remove the front panel by removing the two screws located on the underside of the unit. Lift the front panel up and towards you from the bottom to free the top two clips, set panel aside. Once inside you will see that the tub is centered by three springs connected to eyelets that are bolted to the washer base. Mark the threads, then remove all three springs by removing the nuts from the underside of the washer, the tub is now free to move independent of the washer. Next you'll need to remove the two screws holding the top panel/Lid to the sides (be careful as this will greatly affect the washers overall rigidity). Once removed, carefully tilt the washer back just enough to slide the 4x4x12 block of wood underneath the main drive pulley connected to the bottom of the tub. Set the washer back down and the tub will now be propped up on the wood, exposing the damper pads on the washer base. Tear off the old pads and clean ALL residual glue using the acetone, wire brush and cloth. It's key to have a clean, smooth, and dry surface for the new pads to work properly. Once clean apply the new pads using the high temp glue and supplied instructions. I recommend applying one pad at a time as it requires a bit of dexterity. Don't slather the glue all around like I did or you'll be in a race against the clock to adjust them before the glue sets. I waited 4hrs for the glue to set, then applied the provided lube to each pad and re-assembled the washer in reverse order using the new springs. Be sure to check that your belts are still properly attached as the block of wood may have affected them. Finally, I checked and adjusted the leveling legs, Re-conneted water and power and gave it a test run. Washer runs great! 15+ loads with smooth operation and no more shakes or wobbles.

First had to remove the front panel after lifting the top up on its hinges and supporting it. Diconnected wires to the front panel after marking them where they go. Saw where drum was rubbing above the impeller housing for the fan. Removed the drum slides and replaced them with new slides and brackets. Removed the belt and replaced it. It is a little tricky with the belt on the tensioner so pay close attention on how you remove it, it will make putting the new one on easier.Replaced the felt gasket with high temp glue. Cleaned inside and outside of cabinet. Put the panel back on,hooked up the wires and it looks and runs like new again.

I took dryer door off, put on a flat surface, used pliers to pull old seal off, use a brush to clean any remaining fibers, applied adhesive & let it dry for minute or two til tacky then install seal, let dry for 24hrs, put dryer door back on & done.

I watched a video on you tube repair videos and the repair went fairly easy. But I missed a part near the end of the video and placed a part too close to the shaft and it would not go into the spin mode. After watching the video again I was able to move the part 1/4" and it now works as good as new.

I put everything back together like video and then did a small wash. The agitation cycle was gone! haha.....it was in a slow rotation and no agitation at all. The video guy seems to turn pulley wheel all the way clockwise till it bottoms out on brake and then he says to put the lug stop washer and screw it in 1/4" to 3/8" behind the tab on pulley and put screw in w/ lock washer. I watched other videos and figured out that was way too much turning on the pulley. I then unscrewed pulley and hand rotated it back on to the point where it barely start to make contact with brake and then I put the lug stop about almost 1/2" back, attached screw and lock washer and gave it a test and wallah! all good!.