WRS571CIDM01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

6 screws removed and part replaced

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

The bin was very easy to install. Just make sure you are putting it back in the same spot as there is a small bin and a larger bin on the door and they need to go into the right place. The bin just pops back in easily no tools required. Was a perfect fit.

Took the old one out and put the new one in

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

just followed the instruction on utube

Remove the ice bucket and check that the auger that turns in the ice bucket is free to turn. Cover the open freezer with cardboard or whatever to retain most of the freezer temperature. Remove the holder that supports the top of the motor shaft. Check the splines on the upper part of the motor shaft and also check the seal under the holder. Open the access the door to the motor, remove wiring connector and unbolt the motor. Check the lower splines on motor shaft for condition, clean the shaft and apply new grease to the splines. Before installing, connect the wiring to the new motor, push the door switch in, press the ice dispenser arm outside the door to make sure the motor runs. If all ok, check the motor shaft for fit in the new motor. Be careful not to install the motor shaft too deep in the motor splines, otherwise there may not be enough spline showing on the top end to engage the auger. Bolt the motor in place, close access door and install the holder and ice bucket and make sure everything works. If there is not enough spline showing thru the holder to engage the auger, take pliers and pull the shaft up a bit. This seems to be a hit or miss fit on the shaft but you can adjust the height of the shaft without taking every thing apart again. That's all, not difficult at all. But do check parts and pieces for anything else you might need, parts wise, before ordering the motor by itself like I did. Shipping is high, so try to order any associated parts needed when you order the motor. By the way, This site are great to work with!

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Just plugged it in

The new bin slid right into the required slot

What took the most time was figuring out how to access the back of the pad. This is what I finally put together. First, remove the two screws(with nut driver) holding on the silver plastic cover around the water dispenser orifice and the ice dispenser chute. Next there are two or three black plastic clips that hold the electronic face in place. They are located near the front of the face on the bottom. Take a small flashlight and point it up from the bottom of the dispenser area, and look for a hole in the clear plastic with a small black catch in it. There is one on the right, one on the left, and I think one in the middle. I released these catches by pressing up in the holes with a small flathead screw driver while pulling out on the electronic face. One by one I got them free and the electronic face came away, revealing two Phillips head screws which held the dispensers trim in place. I removed the screws then pulled off the base or drip catcher part of the dispenser. It pulled straight off revealing two more Phillips head screws. After removing them I used my small flathead to work my way around the narrow trim piece disengaging the four clips on either side of the trim that locks it onto the backsplash liner piece. On the bottom I worked the trim up and down to get it to come free of the metal edges of the door and the plastic splash guard. It was kind of a hassle as its job is to lock the splash guard to the door, it hooks to both easily. Once the trim is off and the splash guard the pad is attached too is removed and in your hands its a simple matter to slide the pad up and free of the back splash. The red and blue wire has simple routing to the back of the electronic face previously removed. Disconnect the black connector at the end of the blue and red wires that lead to the pad you are removing. Install the new pad following the original routing path and reassemble dispenser face in reverse order of removal. Be patient and look around to locate the parts described, sorry I don't know their proper names so I am calling the parts names that make sense to me. I hope that helps. Best of luck.