WM2496HWM LG Washer - Instructions

removed top and front. heater is at the base of the tub. the nut compresses the rubber seal and may take some wiggling to remove the old one.

Figured out how to take off top of washer, look inside for problem, ordered new part, watched video how to replace part. All on line. $65.00 later and my 19 yr old washer is still working awesome.

remove 2 screws from top panel - pull top panel back and lift off washer. reach down on front side and remove wire harness that is attached to door lock assembly. remove the 2 screws on front of door lock,remove and replace with new assembly. attach wire harness and then tighten assembly with the 2 screws. replace top of washer panel and tighten with 2 screws.

Just removed the top cover only. Reached down and unplugged the door switch. Then removed the switch with 2 phillips head screws. Replaced with new switch. Reached down and plugged that new switch in. Problem solved!

From previous experiences with other washers, i.e., Sears, I decided it was the mother board or the door latch component. Ordered the electronics and then the discovery that LG has an APP for iPhone. Loaded the app, placed the phone next the washer and pushed the button on the washer. The washer "talked" to the iPhone and within 15 seconds it told me there was a problem with the thermistor. Opened the back of the washer and looked under the tub for the thermistor and found the 2 connecting wires were hanging loose. Put the wires back into the thermistor connection and everything was back working.

Honestly youtube but pretty simple install.

Turned off hot and cold water supply. Pulled out machine and disconnected hoses, unplugged power.

Unscrewed 4 screws at back top of machine (holding plastic bracket to cover). Pulled out trays from front where detergent is poured, and removed small screws under trays.

Slid cover back and up. This was the only tricky part. There are pegs that must line up with large holes in cover before you can easily lift cover up. Helps to look from underneath and find pegs on each side.

Using pliers, fully open clamps holding hoses to the inlet valves, and carefully pull off hoses while keeping clamps open with pliers… making sure to keep track of which hose goes to each motor. Take a picture of electrical connectors noting color and sequence of connectors on each inlet valve motor. Pull all connectors off.

Unscrew screws holding each inlet valve to machine. Put new inlet valves in place of old, and screw in place. Reconnect hoses (using pliers to hold open clamps, then slide clamps over tubing and inlet valve connector). Reconnect electrical connectors carefulljng lining up colors of wires and sequence using picture taken in previous step.

Replace cover. Screw all screws back to secure cover. Replace trays.

Disassembled washer, replaced bearings, seals and gasket. Watched instructional video to familiarize myself with the repair. Followed all steps as recommended, repair was straight forward without any surprises. Hardest part was removing the drum from the machine, somewhat heavy. Disassembled and replaced all bearings, seals, spider and gasket. Reinstalled in reverse order. Note: Upon tear down, I found the seal was pushed out, causing the bearing failure. I also found that the seal was installed incorrectly from LG. They have the seal lip facing the bearings, should be facing the water. This repair seems to be difficult, but was fairly self explanatory. All plug ins are color coded, all hoses are accessible with little effort. If you have basic skills you should be able to handle this repair.

you tube it , not to hard to install

followed video exactly and it worked perfectly

Follow the LG washer video.

1 tilt washer back
2 remove cover plate screw from front of drain filter access panel.
3 Remove cover plate and remove 2 more mounting screws .
4 go below washer and pull down sliding clip and move pump assembly back.
5 remove wires and 3 mounting screws around pump housing
6 Swap pump and re-attch wires

The video from PartSelect showed removing the retaining ring from the rubber washer tub boot to then allow access the door lock located behind the boot for replacement. That ring can sometimes be a real pain to put back on. This can be avoided altogether!

It's much easier to access the door lock switch by removing the two retaining screws on the top cover of the washer found in the back of the machine. Remove the top cover and you can then reach down to remove the wiring connector, unscrew the two phillips screws on the front of the door latch and remove the door lock. Put the new switch on in reverse order; plug in the connector, replace all screws and the top cover, and you are done! This method took than 10 minutes from start to finish.

Please note that the washer should be unplugged from power while working on any electrical component.

Remove door assembly from the hinge, unscrewed screw from the panel. Leave couple screws to hold Hinges. Remove the rubber seal but stretching to spring out, not having rt tool (long nose plier). Remove rubber partially close to the hinge. Remove the Hinges and replaced it, then reverse putting together back. Use small screw driver to put spring tensioner back. Reinstall frame door to hinge, double check everything.

ridiculously easy. removed the door gasket ring clamp. separated the gasket from the face. unscrewed the lock, removed the wire(gently). replaced the wire on the new lock. replaced the lock. replaced door gasket and ring clamp. washed clothes. Note- I had called a repair service and was given a $360 estimate in addition to the $130 dollar service charge. All total- $50 dollar part(with shipping), less than 45 min total time and I'm no mechanic!