WM0001HTMA LG Washer - Instructions

remove 2 screws from top panel - pull top panel back and lift off washer. reach down on front side and remove wire harness that is attached to door lock assembly. remove the 2 screws on front of door lock,remove and replace with new assembly. attach wire harness and then tighten assembly with the 2 screws. replace top of washer panel and tighten with 2 screws.

Watched a step-by-step video on you tube and ordered parts. I took apart the washer by following the steps in the same video to disassemble. Once apart I took the opportunity to pressure wash the tub and housing then let dry overnight. It takes a minute to get the washer apart then back together, but no part was difficult. No special tools were needed. Before I put the back and top panel on, I hooked a garden hose with a splitter to the supply lines and ran a cycle in the garage just to make sure all connections were nice and tight. No issues. Washer is running like a champ since. As you take the washer apart for this type of repair you basically unhook or remove every single part that could go out. Great opportunity to familiarize yourself with other components for the "next time".

Removed the front and replaced the bellows. Also watched a YouTube video of someone replacing the bellows of a similar washer.

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

I followed instructions, posted by this site ln so doing, I saved at least $ 800. Dll`s

removed top and front. heater is at the base of the tub. the nut compresses the rubber seal and may take some wiggling to remove the old one.

I followed the video. Everything worked exactly as described. i ran a quick cycle and everything seemed to be fine. Started a wash and the machine was going fine but stopped, and wouldn't drain. I thought that maybe it might be the Rotor Position Sensor assembly, which I had already purchased just in case.But first i drained the machine and checked out the pump filter. Plugged solid. I'm guessing when the pump went there must have been a lot of lint and debris in the machine. something you might want to check out, after that repair. Thanks. you guys saved me a couple of hundred dollars

I went by the video

Remove door assembly from the hinge, unscrewed screw from the panel. Leave couple screws to hold Hinges. Remove the rubber seal but stretching to spring out, not having rt tool (long nose plier). Remove rubber partially close to the hinge. Remove the Hinges and replaced it, then reverse putting together back. Use small screw driver to put spring tensioner back. Reinstall frame door to hinge, double check everything.

1 tilt washer back
2 remove cover plate screw from front of drain filter access panel.
3 Remove cover plate and remove 2 more mounting screws .
4 go below washer and pull down sliding clip and move pump assembly back.
5 remove wires and 3 mounting screws around pump housing
6 Swap pump and re-attch wires

This was a very easy repair. Just followed the steps in the videos on the website (I replaced both the hot and cold inlet valves, so two different videos, but the process for each is similar) and it couldn't have been simpler.

Remove where the water pumps are and remove the one that was damaged easily

WATCHED VIDEO PROVIDED BY PART SELECT, AND FOLLOWED INSTRUCTIONS. VERY SIMPLE REPAIR.

Unscrewed 2 screws holding part. Removed old part & replaced with new.

Unplugged washer.
Disconnected water line,
Removed 2 screws then removed clips for hoses on inlet valve.
Replaced valve and hooked hises back up. Replaced plate or rear of washer and plugged back in.
Works great and even with cost of 1 day delivery, saved at least $200 doing myself.