WM0001HTMA LG Washer - Instructions

Removed top panal found broken parts and pieces, replaced spring and plastic spring holder. Straightened out and reattached drum front boot.

Disconnect washer - pull out and turn on it's right side. Remove bottom plate (2 screws). Water intake valve is attached to water line. Disconnect water line. On the other end of the pump is a rubber hose. Disconnect hose by using a pair of pliers to open pipe clamp. Disconnect the electric line by pulling the pronged plug out of the pump. The part is composed of the pump and a metal mounting plate. They are connected by 4 screws. Remove the screws and pull out the back half of the pump. The front of the pump is attached to the washer frame by 2 screws. When removed you will notice an o-ring that forms the seal between the two halves. Remember this when installing the new pump. You will have to take the new pump apart because the whole part will not fit through the frame opening, thus the need to make sure the o-ring is properly seated. You can either install the mounting plate to the frame then attach the pump half or with half of the part in front of the frame and the other half behind the frame connect the two, then attach it to the frame. Reconnect incoming water line using teflon tape and a crescent wrench. Reconnect out-flow line with the pipe clamp and attach the power line. Since you have to take the new pump apart make sure the o-ring is properly seated as it will have a tendency to fall out. Reassemble the rest.

Took front of machine off to access 2 shocks, put back together then removed panel in back to access third shock, watched YouTube video first so things went smooth

I looked this problem up on YouTube like I do with everything, I saw a video from this site.. so I ordered what I needed from the website. The parts came in I unpluged the washer from the wall very important, I literally removed 6 Philips head screws and unclipped the wires from the parts and removed the hoses with the pliers, hoses have squeeze clamps. Put in New parts put hoses back on wiring back on and I was done.. it took me a total of maybe 10 minutes.. NO MORE WATER standing in the washer.. Thank you!! I would recommend you add a video for the Inlet Valve Assembly like you have for the hot inlet valve though...

Had to manually shut off water valve behind the washing machine to stop the filling process. Followed repair video from the website.

Methodically, no hurry and it went smooth. Most difficult was removing old bearings and installing the new. Glad I had experience doing this. Would not recommend this as a first time experience replacing bearings. Replaced shocks in the process, glad we did, made a huge difference.

you tube it , not to hard to install

I youtube searched this problem and found a video from partselect. I watched the video, purchased the part, and followed the video instruction step by step to repair the washer. Part with tax and shipping was $52.

Disassembled washer, replaced bearings, seals and gasket. Watched instructional video to familiarize myself with the repair. Followed all steps as recommended, repair was straight forward without any surprises. Hardest part was removing the drum from the machine, somewhat heavy. Disassembled and replaced all bearings, seals, spider and gasket. Reinstalled in reverse order. Note: Upon tear down, I found the seal was pushed out, causing the bearing failure. I also found that the seal was installed incorrectly from LG. They have the seal lip facing the bearings, should be facing the water. This repair seems to be difficult, but was fairly self explanatory. All plug ins are color coded, all hoses are accessible with little effort. If you have basic skills you should be able to handle this repair.

Just removed the top cover only. Reached down and unplugged the door switch. Then removed the switch with 2 phillips head screws. Replaced with new switch. Reached down and plugged that new switch in. Problem solved!

From previous experiences with other washers, i.e., Sears, I decided it was the mother board or the door latch component. Ordered the electronics and then the discovery that LG has an APP for iPhone. Loaded the app, placed the phone next the washer and pushed the button on the washer. The washer "talked" to the iPhone and within 15 seconds it told me there was a problem with the thermistor. Opened the back of the washer and looked under the tub for the thermistor and found the 2 connecting wires were hanging loose. Put the wires back into the thermistor connection and everything was back working.

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

The video from PartSelect showed removing the retaining ring from the rubber washer tub boot to then allow access the door lock located behind the boot for replacement. That ring can sometimes be a real pain to put back on. This can be avoided altogether!

It's much easier to access the door lock switch by removing the two retaining screws on the top cover of the washer found in the back of the machine. Remove the top cover and you can then reach down to remove the wiring connector, unscrew the two phillips screws on the front of the door latch and remove the door lock. Put the new switch on in reverse order; plug in the connector, replace all screws and the top cover, and you are done! This method took than 10 minutes from start to finish.

Please note that the washer should be unplugged from power while working on any electrical component.

Took the sealing ring off the gasket, unscrewed the door lock with two screws. Unplugged it. Plugged the new one in, screwed it back in. Put the ring back on and it started right up.

Followed the video supplied by this site and everything was as described!