WFW9400SW03 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Did the repair just like the video on your website. Was really easy.

We do not wish to have our repair published. The part itself was perfect and corrected our leaking problem but we did have difficulty with the installation despite detailed instructions. We appreciate a good price for the perfect part!

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

REMOVE HOSES AND POWER PLUG REATTACH EVERYTHING AND THEN DONE.

This was an easy fix . PartSelect was quick and had all the info I needed to repair my washer. Plus shipping was super fast. Thanks

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I replaced the pump thinking this was the most likely cause of the problem. The pump is easy to access and get to. The reviews were helpful. The hose clamps were difficult to get back in place especially the one from the washer drain to the pump (need wide-jaw pliers). Now that I have seen the system work, the pump was not bad and the water from the drain still smells bad. I just ordered the filter 8181683, which looks like the only other thing that would prevent the water from draining completely. The drain hose is not blocked.

Looked at how the old drain pump was installed, then removed it and installed the new one. It was a fairly simple fix. The only feedback were that the parts picture was a little confusing becuase the picture didnt really look like the actual part, so we were unsure if we were ordering the correct part.

Made a bad call after googling "bearing squeal for HE 4t" and replaced the bearings and seal on the drum.... Turns out my squeal was coming from the drain pump, didn't realize until after a major tear down and replacement of bearings and seal. Managed to break one of the electrical connectors on the heating element on that repair as well... Compared to the bearing replacement the drain pump was super simple. Lots of good instructions above, the only thing I would add is that if you put a little pressure on the hose clamps and spin them to an easier position to see and get pliers on, they will be much less of a headache. Vice grips were the best tool for getting them released and re-installed. The heating element was pretty easy, loosen the center nut to the end of the threads but don't remove. Use a flat screwdrive to gently pry the unit out. Use a little dish washing soap to lube up the rubber plug on the new one before installing and it slides right in.

Washed three loads and it was ok but then it stopped draining again. I don't know what to do.

I removed the top 3 screws on the rear, removed soap dispenser, removed screw in front corner at soap dispenser,pry off control panel with flat head screwdriver lay on top, removed spring around bellows at door opening, remove 4screws holding door assembly, disconnect 3 molded plugs serving door lock, you will need to hold door while you loosen bellows clamp.Reverse process note: soap dispenser tube can be removed to clean without any tools. It is some much easier when you remove the front door assembly.T-20 torx screwdriver, 9/32 socket Theirs a you tube video also.ghw

Removed the 3 bolts attaching top of washer. Disconnected hoses from the inlet value and flow meter, also very careful to remove the wire connections. Removed Water inlet valve (this requires the star screw driver). Did find it best to connect the inlet valve and flow meter before reattaching the inlet valve, as that sits under the lip, it is just a bit of a tight fit to get the hose reconnected between the two. Then reconnected the flow meter hose to the dispensing box, reattached the hoses and ran a cycle no f20 issues, as a note, an f20 has to do with a restriction in the flow of water not with pressure so not sure if it was the inlet valve or flow meter clogging up or both.

Followed video clip that I found online

Very limited access to the bellow clamp. Found it easier to first remove washer front panels (8 screws total), providing ready access to R&R the bellow. 40 minutes tops.

Opened lower front panel to access the motor controller. Took a picture of the wiring attached to the front of the controller. Removed two wiring harnesses and one wire with a retainer clip. Removed the faulty controller. Inserted the new controller, replaced the wiring, using the picture to insure correct positioning (although that really wasn't necessary because the wiring clips could probably only be put in the correct places). Replaced the front cover, plugged in the washer and fired it up.