WFW75HEFW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

So I was unable to get my model number so I took the hinge off the washer and was able to order the part. Before removing the hinge I used a marker and marked the hinge location on the washer. Once I got the part I removed the T15 screws on the inside part of the door and separate the pieces. I was able to remove the white tube for all 4 of the pins and put them on the hinge. I installed the hinge an then i put the front door pieces back together again while it was laying on the floor. I though I put it in wrong but I was correct. Once i had the hinge on the door and the door reassembled, I was able to attached the hinge to the washer. The hinge comes off the washer by pushing up on it and to reinstall you push down. I tighten the 4 T25 screws using the marks on the washer and the door is alligned correctly. I am able to close the washer door with one finger instead of my whole hand.

First, the repair manual is under the top cover. From the manual, I found that my problem E1 F0 (I think) was one of two possible issues, the drain pump or level switch. I bought both parts and replaced them and the issue is no more. The repair went very easy. You remove the rear cover and top. The pump is located in the bottom bay of the machine. The only issue I had was that the machine had the drawer unit, which blocked the access panel under the machine and made installation and removal a little more difficult. The best way is to tilt the machine forward to reach the bolts, a small ratchet set works nicely. The level switch is on the right side, toward the rear. This part slides out, and the wires are keyed, so they only go in one way.

Two people to screwdrivers, stretching the spring out and around and that’s the last part to go on

Old dispenser part came loose from dispenser drawer area, hit the floor and broke two plastic connectors. Very small and fragile plastic tabs are all that retains the front of the dispenser drawer. Cost for those two parts over $100 retail.

Be gentle with plastic components.

Removed the back panel removed the drain pump installed new one

Found helpful video on YouTube
Unplugged washer and moved out from the wall leaving the drain hose intact
Used vacuum pump to suck out water from front of washer (inserted hose inside front door gasket)
Removed back cover
Checked filter on old pump(clean on buttons, screws or missing jewelry)
Positioned light and mirror inside to locate screws attaching pump
Unplugged small wire as shown on video
Used wrench and socket to remove bolt head screws
Used adjustable wrench to release clamp on hose connector to the old pump
Pulled out old pump wiped up small water drips
Installed the new pump ordered and received from partselect
Hardest part was inserting the far back screws and reversing the righty tightly mindset…
P.S. washer is up and running great!

Removed back panel. Remove 4 8mm sockets on pump assembly. Replace with new pump. Only difficult because of limited clearance. But I'm huge.

1. Unplug power, turn off water supply valves and remove water supply hoses from washer.
2. Remove three screws on back of washer for top cover.
3. Slide top cover back 1/2-3/4 inch and remove from machine
4. Remove water inlet valve set screw to left of hot water supply connector.
5. From the inside of the washer, slide the inlet valve to the left, disconnect wiring, and wire clips.
6. Disconnect hoses from back of detergent dispenser.
7. Connect hoses from new inlet valve to back of detergent dispenser
8. Connect wiring, and wiring clips to new inlet valve.
9. Slide inlet valve back into place and install set screw.
10. Replace top cover and install three screws for top cover
11. Recommend replacing supply hoses (mine leaked, and were approx. 5 years old).
12. Install water supply, turn on water, check for leaks. Plug in washing machine.

Video demonstration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yH0TppbTtI0

I pulled out the filter and it was not pugged so I ordered a new pump and installed it, easy to do. That took care of the fault code and it was repaired. Being who I am I took apart the old pump and found that the pump had a build up around the armature of the pump motor. I cleaned it up and reinstalled it and the old pump worked fine. Now I have a spear pump for the next it fails. Easy repair that took less than 15 minuets to fix.
Happy to deal with Parts Select they have great shipping.

I took the machine top off, then removed the control panel, removed old wire ring clamps. Removed door, removed inner clamp, water inlet tube, and bellows. Lubed up the new bellows with food grade silicone. Replaced the water inlet, inner clamp, door, outer spring clamp, reassembled the washer body and control panel and then ate a pizza.

The repair was easier than the troubleshooting. Figured out the hot or cold water supply valve was failing which allowed water to enter the tub via the dispenser leaving several inches of water on clean clothes or the empty cylinder.

To replace the valve you need to first shut off the hot/cold water supply and remove the hoses. (I took this time to replace the several year old hot & cold water supply rubber hoses with metal braided hoses. I also took a wire brush to the threads of the copper spigot removing any built up corrosion or gunk.) Next you need to remove the 3 1/4" sheet metal screws which secure the top panel of the washing machine. I always take a few pictures of the old part, hose, and connectors just to make sure I replace them in the same locations.

After removing the cover you can use clamp removal/installation pliers, vice grips, or a similar tool to remove the clamps for the hot and cold water to the detergent/bleach/softener dispenser.

Then, remove the electrical connectors on the valve and if you want label them with their locations on the left or right facing the rear of the washer if you want but they are pretty much self-explanatory. They have little retention clips which need to be disengaged in order to be removed from the valve assembly.

Next, remove the hoses and then the three sheet metal screws attaching the valve to back panel of the washer. Install the new valve assembly and then attach the hot and cold water hoses using the clamps to the detergent/bleach/softener dispensers. Then, attach the electrical connectors to the new valve and listen for the clip to engage and gently pull back on the connector (not the wires) to ensure they are properly attached to the valve.

Reconnect the hot & cold water supply hoses from the building pipes and turn-on both spigots or ball valves. Check for leaks and then plug in the washing machine and run a load to test the normal operation. I would leave one piece of dry clothing in the tub after running a load and leave it for a few hours to ensure the new valve is working as advertised.

If there are no further leaks, you are done! Way to go!

Disconnect electrical plug. Remove rear panel from washer. Remove drain hose. Open filter on pump unit to drain water from washer ( use a catch pan to catch water) remove drain hose from drain pump unit. Remove electrical connector. Remove 4 mounting bolts. Remove drain pump assembly. Install new pump in reverse order. Once washer is assembled. Pour about a quart of washer into the drum so as not to run the drain pump dry. Enjoy your repaired washer

Took the back cover off. Took screws off to pump. Replaced pump. Did everything reverse. Tested to make sure.

Unplugged the unit and remove the back cover of the washer. Broken shock was the right rear one so easy access.
Used channel locks to twist the upper and lower portion of the shocks to unlock them from the washer.
Installing the new part, it is advisable to clean the washer base cover that the shock fits into. Corrosion can make it difficult to insert shock tab and twist if not cleaned. I had to use the channel locks to twist, but be careful as the locking tabs are plastic.
It is also advisable that when you have the back cover off, that you clean the washer filter.

replace the door lock with the parts i ordered