WED8300SW2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I replaced both the thermal fuse and the thermistor at the same time. That seemed to fix the problem; but after a couple of days the dryer would not start. When pushing the Hold to Start button, the dryer just gave one beep and would not start. I did a resistance test on the old thermal fuse, and it was OK; so I put the old thermal fuse back in and the dryer works. Evidently, it was just the thermistor (thermostat, internal bias) that was broken. Both are very easy to change.

Took the front part of the dryer out, released tension on the idler pulley, took the drum out, and remove the old drum seal. Make sure you remove the old adhesive with sandpaper or wire brush. Put the new adhesive on the seal, not on the drum. Adhesive is very runny. Seal may need to be stretched to fit the drum. Set the seal on the drum, let sit a few minutes. Put everything back together.

Just replaced part

take off front bottom panel. use ohm tester on the heater coil element, (It had broken in back) remove screw holding it in place and the two red wires leading to the element. Pull out and replace. reinstall in reverse. Done

I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.

Watched Video - very helpful in repair Maytag Dryer working like new now Thanks for your guidance in my repair

I did what any novice would have done. I took the entire thing apart to get to the gas jet. I did not know about the thermal fuse until I got to the schematic behind the timer and controls. I was a tech back in the 70's and 80's and only worked on electric dryers. Back then I would remove the heater core and twist the coils together to save money. So I had no idea how a gas dryer heating unit worked. So now any one that reads this. You do not have to take the dryer completely apart, I did that for all of you. Just replace the thermal fuse on the back of the unit by unplugging that wires and removing the screws! It looks like a long white piece of plastic with 2 wires to it. You will find this under the full metal shield on the back of the unit. This should be about a 1 hour repair at the most!

I simply removed the rear panal of the dryer. Removed the two wires from the fuse at the rear of the dryer. Attached an OEM meter across the two fuse connections and had no continuity. Ordered a new fuse and recieved it in 2.5 days.Replaced the fuse,reconnected the wires and replaced the rear panal. Started dryer and it now blows hot air and runs like new. I can't say enough about PartSelect. Great diagnosis using their website, the delivery was fast and I recieved the correct part at a good price. Very satisfied, Thanks PartSelect. Fred F

Removed the front panel, removed the tub and removed the old seal. Tub seal area was scraped, sanded and wiped with acetone to ensure a clean. Bonding surface. Applied adhesive with and acid brush to get a consistent adhesive layer without getting too much in any one place. Seal was a bit smaller than the tub circumference so it had to be stretch to fit. While the adhesive was curing , I took the time to clean the contact surfaces and vacuum the lint from inside the cabinet. Reinstalled the tub, drive belt and front panel.

Removed the dryer door, unscrewed lint vent.

Took the top off and then front off and drum out . Replaced Drum roller and shaft support bolts.

Removed the dryer's back panel and took a look. Had no idea what to do next, so I read up on it. Partselect was extremely helpful to me, the exploded views with the part numbers called out were particularly helpful. So I determined it was the thermal fuse. Unscrewed the screw holding in the fuse and disconnected the electrical supply. New fuse went in really easily. Job took a lot longer than it had to cause since I was in there, I cleaned out the dryer really good.

Why the fuse blew was interesting: had an extension cord routed over the dryer, well it was situated such that it caused the timer knob to bind up. Apparently, the dryer ran all night because of this and blew the fuse. So don't obstruct the knob or you will be replacing a thermal fuse!

Removed two hex screws from upper back clips. Removed 2 Phillips screws under lint trap. Used flat head screwdriver to pry up top on front right and left side clips. (FYI: top pry's up off retaining clips in front). Remove two hex screws on right and left front panel. Un-plugged wire harness front right side. Lifted up and removed front panel. This hold the drum in place. Simply removed drum, installed new belt, replaced the two drum wheels and put everything back together the same way I took it apart. 30 Minute project :)

I removed all the panels, removed the tub, replaced the pulley, put the tub back in and replaced the panels. Just when I screwed the Last screw in the doorbell rang with the door switch which I installed immediately.

I followed the very informative video and wrote down step-by-step notes for myself. The repair went very smoothly. The only thing I didn't realize, was that the dryer has 4 rollers, not just 2 shown in the video. All are easy to access once you disassemble. I had to do it twice since I had to order 2 more rollers in order to replace them all. Also, the triangle plastic washers come with the roller, so you won't need to order them separately like I did. I also changed the idler pulley roller while I was in there since that has bearings too. Just as easy. I'm very happy with my quiet dryer! One last note: The new rollers are a bit louder than normal at first, but they quiet down very quickly as you use the dryer. It must be because they are brand new.