W225 - Instructions

I first leaned the washer up and "walked" the belt off of the motor pulley. Then I lifted the top cover of the washer and propped it up so I had access to the screws in the front cover. I took out the two screws at the top of that cover and lifted it out of the way to get to the motor. I took out the mounting bolts and then removed the ground wires. I followed the lead of a previous "repair story" by taking the electrical wires off the old motor, one by one, and immediately putting them on the new motor in order to get them in the right spot. The only issue I had was that one of the ground-wire screws was smaller than the hole that had been tapped on the new motor. Otherwise it was really simple and the job was finished by completing reassembly in reverse order of disassembly. And the old washer seems to have more life in it today.

Removed knob from timer and pulled off the plastic indicater.
Removed 3 screws from the top back of the controls panel and then two screws from the bottom front.
Removed controls panel.
Removed four screws from the controls mounting bracket.
Removed mounting bracket.
Removed two srews holding the timer to the mounting bracket.
Unpluged wire harness from the timer.
Installed new timer.
Put back together and done.

first we looked at schematics on your web site to see what we thought was wrong and if we felt we could do ourselves. It appeared to be seals and gaskets, so we went for it and carefully took the washer apart. We ordered the parts, cleaned the parts we had such as the tub, and were all ready to put back together when the parts arrived. Again, using your pictures, we reasselbled and when we tested, it worked better than it had been in a long time. And we saved a large repair bill!

Removed the front panel, Removed the belt from pump in the back of machine. Removed the pump from the back of machine, Put the pump in reconnected the belt, Replaced all the screws. My husband did the repair work in a matter of 45 minutes. Machine works fine now. The part came when I was told it would. I am very pleased with your service.

removed the screw holding the actuator, ordered the new part and replaced it when it arrived. Shipping was really fast and I even received it one day early.

The reason for the belt not turning was because of a cover in the water pump pulley which did not allow the water pump to rotate and that's why the belt and the plastic motor pulley burn out. First I removed that cover and then removed the belt, the pulley was easy simply by breaking all the little teeth with a screwdriver then the pulley can be remove by using a screwdriver as a lever. putting the pulley, simply use a plastic hammer so it does not get damage be patient. finally the belt and you are done, hopefully this will help someone.

First push inner tub to left rear, all the way, and
unscrew hinge from inside of tub. repeat same on
right side. lift cover off and unscrew other half of
hinge off cover, both sides.reverse procedures and your done.
Note: always replace both hinge's new while
you have it apart.

I replaced the hinges as described in other posts and the problem was solved. When the oven was 2 years old it had the same problem but the hinges should not have fatigued at that point. The engineering problem someone mentioned is that the pin of the light switch is too short. I touched it with lipstick, closed the oven door, and opened the door to see exactly where the door touched the pin. I drilled a small hole in the door and screwed in a self tapping metal screw...problem solved for 8 years until the hinges fatigued. After replacing the hinges I tried removing the screw but the light stayed on so I put the screw back.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

For safety I Unplugged the machine
Tipped machine back and removed the belt. Rotated the motor by hand and all is well there. Rotated the water pump by hand and a grinding sound appeared. I Let the machine down . Using a hard object , 1/16th of an inch thick, I slide it between the front edge of the lid and the front panel unlocking the clips ( one on the right side and one on the left side ) holding the lid down. I then tipped the lid up and removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Lifted the front panel off of the clips on the bottom end of panel. Using a nut driver I removed the 3 bolts holding the pump to the frame. Then with a pliers I removed the clips holding the 2 hoses. With a pan to catch the water I removed the hoses and drained them into the pan.
I then took my machine model number and went to the internet in search of a new water pump. After checking several sites with no success, I come upon the site for PartSelect.Com. With the excellent search method on the site I was able to quickly find the part I needed. I placed my order (10pm) on a Tuesday night and a short time later I received an email letting me know they had my order. On Wednesday I received an email letting me know they had shipped my order. On Friday the order had arrived.
I removed the new pump from the box and inspected it . Every thing looks great. I placed the pump into its mount on machine and bolted it down. Attached the 2 hoses, put the front panel back on and tipped the top down into place. Pushed machine into place, plugged it in and fired it up. I now have a quiet running machine again. Thank You to PartSelect.com for the quick response to my

tip washer up on wooden blocks.remove drive belt.remove "E" clip from tub drive pulley and remove all the parts.Install new parts in kit as per instructions.machine works great!

Disassembly
- Took the back bottom plate off.
- Removed hoses.
- Removed pump with pulley (3 nut screws)
- Removed belt

Installed new parts
- Installed pump with pulley (3 screws)
- Installed belt by placing on 2 small pulleys, then turning onto the large pulley (used a screwdriver to help align over pulley for leverage).
- Replaced hoses
- Replaced back plate.

Read DIY review from William, Middleton, OH on 01-15-08. Tip on how to relieve spring pressure on brake assembly worked like a dream (3ea 10-24X2 bolts/machine screws). Replaced brake and machine works like new and was an inexpensive fix. Once the shell/housing is off the machine, tub can be turned upside down and the base doesn't need to be removed. White powder under machine was a plastic wear ring that tells you when your brake rotor needs to be changed. Brake rotor still had lining but was much thinner than replacement part. Note* Use putty knife to push in clips on front to release the top lid section.

I was able to get the belt off easily but the belt was fine. I changed the snubber easily also. But that wasn't the problem. I went through all the parts that are easy enough to change without a mechanic but turned out it was something inside the innerbasket and we had to junk the washer and it was only 4 yrs old.

The repair was very easy to perform, but the springs in the new hinge were not as strong as the old one. The door would not close all the way unless you held it closed. The hinge looked identical but spring had less tension.