W225 - Instructions

Unplugged washer then took back off control panel. Removed clamp and tube from pressure switch. Pushed in tabs with a screwdriver and lifted top. Removed clamp and broken tube. Put new tube in place and tighten clamp with nutdriver. Closed top and put other end of tube on pressure switch with clamp. Put back on control panel and plugged in. Clamps are to big for application but do work. So far so good!

I wasted time opening up the metal container for the washing machine, which was easier than expected. The top simply pops off with a little bit of prying with a screwdriver, then the front panel is held in place with two sheet metal screws. The front panel then lifts off and you can see the exterior case for the tub drive mechanism and motor. But, it wasn't obvious what was wrong until I tilted the entire unit backwards and saw the drive belt available directly under the machine and fully accessible without any tools. It was obvious, because there was a 1/8" worth of belt fragment dust under the machine. A new belt was all it needed and after I ordered it from PartSelect, I simply jimmied the old belt off the main pulley and put the new one on. It no longer squeals or slips. Hopefully, I gained another 5 years of life out of the washing machine.

1. Removed screws and detached push on cannectors
2. Removed old element
3. Pushed eclectrial connectors onto new element and attached new element to oven with screws.

First I tipped the washing machine onto its front. I removed the belt on the bottom of the machine. Then I removed the screws that held the cover in place on the back of the machine. Next I removed the two hoses that were connected to the vertical pump using pliers to pinch the clamps. I then removed three screws that held the vertical pump in place. I took the new verticle pump with pulley and mounted it to the washer and putting the washer machine back together using the previous steps in reverse order.

The drain pump assembly was going bad. It eventually froze and burned the drive belt and motor pulley up. I replaced the drain pump by removing 3 screws. I replace the motor pulley and belt in about 5 minutes without removing any parts. Simple fix. Ran through 3 cycles and works perfectly. Thanks!

Hardest part was removing front panel to access the motor.
Removed front panel, Tilted washer with block under the front. Removed belt. Used pully puller to remove damaged pully. Tapped on new pully with 1/2 in socket until shoulder seated on motor shaft. Replaced belt and front panel. Runs as smooth as new now. Additional note: I removed the plastic guard over the top of the motor and held an additional socket on the top of the motor shaft to avoid internal damage to the motor while tapping the new pully on the lower shaft.

1. Unplug power cord.
2. Move washer away from the wall to get access to the back of the control panel.
3. Remove 5 screws from the back panel cover with 1/4" driver, & remove cover.
4. Pull the Water Level Switch knob out from the front control panel.
5. Use pliers to slide away the retaining clip holding the clear rubber tube to the water level switch, & separate the tube from the switch.
6. Use 1/4" driver to remove 2 screws holding the switch, & remove the switch.
7. Remove the electrical wires
8. Install new switch in reverse order.

When you are testing out the washer afterward & your spouse said still not fixed because she thought the water level is too high when the water is still running? Wait a little while longer, the water should stop. She is just not used to see it filled without a load of laundry in it.

Removed the door then the end caps and inner panel then the hinge system and replaced with the one piece new set of hinges and back together done in 30 to 45 minutes The new parts were a perfect replacement.

I felt extremely confident when purchasing the part because I say three diagrams which clearly showed I was ordering the correct part. 0. Drain all of the water out of the machine. 1. Remove the rear panel from the washer. 2. Use the pliers to disconnect the hoses from the pump. 3. Remove the three screwa from the old pump. 4. Support the washer with the block then take the belt off pulley. 5. Remove old pump. 6. put new pump in place then reconnect the pulley, you can remove the block.. 7. Install the three screws for the pump after you tighten it up by placing the pump over ther correct screw holes.. 8. Reconnect the two hoses using the clamps you removed. 9. Secure the rear panel and screw in place. 10. Wash clothes. EASY FIX!!!

1.remove the trim around the door (8 screws)
2.remove over glass panel (part with the handle)
Caution; the springs on the door are exactly set for the weight of the door. When we removed the outer glass panel, I almost killed my wife when the door slammed shut.
3.Remove inner metal cover (6-8 screws).some of these screws were baked pretty tight so I used vise grips on their little heads to convince them to get turning.
4. To get the door window out you must also remove the inner enamel baked cover, held on by 5-6 screws from the back. This is also the pieces which holds the door seal in place, so it is a good time to change that as well.
5. After cleaning up all the broken glass from the old window, the new window slides right in - perfect fit!
Reverse the steps to put it all back together.

From the time the glass broke until it was completely repaired took only six days! Pretty amazing for a twenty year old oven.

Older model oven with model number worn off. Photo with the 1" grid made it possible for me to find the right size part.

You only need a phillips head screwdriver to install this seal, but it is a bit tricky to line up the new seal and the fiberglass insulation inside the door, so take your time and make sure everything lines up and is tucked in before tightening the screws. Probably easier to do with 2 people (especially getting the door back on the spring loaded hinges) but I was able to do it solo without too much difficulty.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

I dissasembled the entire door..lots of screws and watch you dont drop the glass pieces...also keep them in order so you dont get confused on what goes where. I cleaned everything nicely and installed the new seal and everything went together perfectly and looks and works like new. I recieved my part by mail very quickly and the price was MUCH better than my local repair shop.

We panicked cause even simple repairs on these products cost and cost.....but we remained calm and ordered the exact part necessary from you. It arrived in just 3 days and once we had the part in hand it was easy to understand how to replace it. We disassembled the door with screwdrive and swapped the broken part with the new one. The one gotcha was that we were not aware of the shipping pin holding the spring and we struggled for a few trying to get the door closed all the way. Once we discovered the pin and removed it, it was fixed and we were PLEASED!

Thank you,
Louise and Rickl

This is a very simple repair, I opened the top of the washer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and the washer cabinet. There are 2 clips on the front of washer, locate and push in to release top. Lift top with lid attached and remove the 2 screws holding the lid to the top of washer. Remove lid and replace hinge pin and hinge.
Replace lid, close top , all done. Total time about 15 minutes or so. Now the lid will stay up and not fall on someone.