SD19W-C Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Pull refrigerator out to access back, unplug unit and remove the 3 .25" screws cut the power leads to motor and install new with easy to understand instructions provided with new motor. Plug refrigerator back in and enjoy your cold beverages once more. EASIEST REPAIR EVER.

I used the process of elimination. The freezer was cold but the fridge side was warm. The motor was runing but the fan was not working. I unplugged the power cord and pulled everything out of the freezer. Then I took the coil cover out. The unit was frozen solid. I used my wifes hair dryer to melt the ice on the coil and spray water with a bottle to speed up the process. It took about 15 minutes to melt the ice and plug the power cord again. The motor kicked on and the fan started blowing right away so I know it's not the fan. The following morning it was frozen again. I repeated the process of taking everything out and tested the heater element with a multimeter. It wasn't working allowing the ice to build over the coil so I replaced it. It took about 30 minutes to replace but two days later it froze again. I read a little to learn about the timer and the thermostat function in a refrigerator. The timer rotates to turn off the motor and turn on the heater element to melt the ice on the coil. I tried to rotate it but it felt too hard to turn and it smelled burnt out so I replaced it at once. It took me less than 10 minutes to replace. I also learn that the thermostat reaches certain temperature and activates the fan which blows the cold air out of the coil and throughout the fridge compartments. Because the coil and the thermostat were getting covered in ice, it was not activating the fan to blow the air out keeping the freezer side cold and the fridge side warm. By replacing them both, the thermostat and the timer I solved the problem. It took about 30 minutes to replace the thermostat but now it's working like a brand new one again.

My fridge / freezer started getting very warm. But, the compressor and condenser fan were operating. I chose the defrost timer from the parts select suggested list. I took it apart and noticed the contacts were in bad shape. I validated this with my dvm meter. By checking continuity across the contacts while turning the timer knob. I also used my meter to check for 115 vac across the 2, 1 connections. . As you turn the timer knob, you'll hear a click. This should close the contacts and connections 4,3 should power up the evap fan. I also pulled the evap fan and powered it up on my test bench. I did this just to validate the timer was the problem. So, if you have a running compressor and condenser fan. Check the contacts on the defrost timer located under the front grill of your unit with a dvm. There is a small gear motor that runs the timer. Don't be fooled by the fact it's running. If the contacts are toast, replace the timer unit. Total time to fix the problem should be 15 mins. Tops.

Turn off water, removed two mounting screws, unplugged solenoid, removed incoming water connection and plastic pipe to ice maker. Installed new valve, connected water lines, reconnected plug, remounted with screws. Turned water back on, over rode power to ice maker and checked for leaks. Total time about 5 minutes. Very easy repair.

The instruction sheet supplied with the new motor described the steps to take very good. Replaced the rubber grommets for the three motor mounts also. A flashlight or light source was needed or was very helpful.

Very simple repair. Ice maker was operating, but not receiving water. Once new valve was in place it works like new.

The first issue was to determine if the problem was with the ice maker or the water dispenser / pump. I chose to try to repair the dispenser first since there air bubbles in the plastic line. Also, the ice maker seems to have been working. There just wasn't enough water so the ice cubes were hollow.

I unplugged the power cord, , removed the cardboard backing and two bolts that secured the pump to the refrigerator. I vacumned the area so I could see around. I pulled the valve out and disconnected it from the internal power source. I disconnected the copper water intake and the plastic tubbing to the ice maker. I used a pipe cutter to take the old flanged area off. A new flange was included in the package. I used that and reconnected the copper intake and the plastic tubbing. I replaced the power source and secured the valve to the refrigerator makeing sure the plastic tubbing wasn't twisted. When I plugged the refrigator back up, the ice maker started working within five minutes.

Based on internet research, determined that the problem was likely the defrost timer or the thermostat that's clipped to the cooling coil behind the freezer. Once before, a repairman had replaced the thermostat only, so that was my first repair. Still not working right, so I replaced the timer as well, and everything's working. I opened up the old timer switch and found the contacts were burned, partially arced.

If you have a similar problem, replace both parts. Only about $15 apiece

Very easy repair. Remove 2 nuts that keep timer cover on regrigerater. Remove 2 screws that hold timer to cover, unplug wires from timer. Install new timer.

With guidance from this web site, I was able to repair this myself very easily

Removed rear cover to see non-operating fan - removed three mounting screws on the motor that were a challenge to access. Swapped fan from old motor onto new motor - one threaded nut on the motor shaft. Spliced new fan wires into fan wires of the wiring harness and mounted with three self-tapping screws supplied with new fan motor. Replaced rear cover and plugged it in! Now the refrigerator cools like new (1981 model side-by-side Admiral)

Pulled out the refrigerator and removed the two panels from the rear of the refrigerator. Removed the fan held in by four screws and unplugged the connector. Soldered on the original connector, installed the fan to the motor and re-installed the unit into the refrigerator. Then blew out and vaccumed the condenser coils.

The old water valve leak required me to purchase this new complete part. After shutting off the water supply, disconnect the supply line, take out the old water valve by disconnecting the "plug" from the refrigerator, and disconnect the plastic water line going into the ice maker. Then just reconnect the new water valve by plugging it into the 2 pronged receptacle, note to be sure to write down which wire goes into which input when disconnecting the old valve. Then hand tighten the plastic tube into the valve. Next attach your water supply line into the new water valve, tighten this supply line as you would any plumbing supply line with a couple of adjustable wrenches and some teflon tape at the connection. I would also recommend at this point, if the compression fitting on your supply line was like mine a bit old, to spend a couple bucks on a new fitting and put that on the supply line, since you don't want to worry about it being a good seal at the supply line point, once the repair is done. After checking for "no leaks" reattach everything to the rear of the refrigerator (make a note of the attachment before taking out the old valve) and see if your ice maker starts to make some ice. You will hear the valve feeding the water to the icemaker if all is properly setup.

Removed and Replaced

Fridge has a top freezer. I unplugged the fridge and removed the lower panel in the back. I removed the two screws that hold the valve bracket to frame of fridge in lower right corner (facing fridge from back). I then disconnected the modular wiring plug and both the water supply and the hose to the icemaker.
i connected the power plug to the new part, reconneced the hose to the icemaker and reattached the bracket with the two screws into the frame of the fridge. finally, i reconnected the water supply and plugged in the fridge. In a few hours the icemaker was working like new. I figure i save about $100 or more by not having to call a repairman and it was easier than I had expected.