S210 - Instructions

removed control knob and dial with compression ring from front panel using 1/4in. nut driver removed 3 screws from rear of panel again using nut driver removed old washer timer unplugged wiring harness and reversed assembly took about 8 min.

Repaired Agitator - required to pull from the bottom pulling on one side a little more then the other. Once you got loose it comes right off. Under neith there is a bolt that holds on agitator coupler. remove the bolt with wrench or socket wrench and then the agaitator coupler. Replace with new agitator coupler ,make sure grooves are aligned when putting on the rotor. Tap the top of the agitator coupler lightly until it is completely seated. Put the bolt on with wrench or socket wrench. Put the agitator back on over the agitator coupler and agin make sure grooves are alighned and push down until it feels it is seated. When done, give it a light pull to make sure it is secure and then you are done.

removed hoses and clamps. removed 2 bolts on pump. put it back together. done 15 min.

Used 1" puddy knife to depress spring loaded retainer tabs. Front panel is removed by prying the top of the front panel away from the machine. Lift front panel to release bottom from machine. Set panel aside. New belt is installed by placing it on the drive pulley and then rolling belt onto the motor pulley. Rotate the motor by hand while moving belt so it is properly seated on pulley.

drilled off top plate of agitator to gain access ot bolt, removed bolt, removed agitator, replaced coupler and new bolt, snapped in place new agitator.

followed the instruction on the wiring sheet and removal and repair sheet that comes with the wahing machine. They wee very good directions and the only problem that I had wa getting the 1 and 11/16 inch not off the shaft that holds the tub to the transmission, The main problem was that the transmission had leaked all over the break and the tub would spin while hitting the pipe wrench with a claw hammer. Ended up using a 10 lb sledge hammer to hit the pipe wrench and that finally loosened up the nut, but that was the only real problem i had. I say this was easy except for getting off that nut

Actually putting on a knob is self-explanatory. But wanted to say your company had the best price and reaction (delivery time). Great job by PartSelect!

Instead of calling a repair man, we decided to look up the problem on the internet. We found that other people had the same problem on a website such as this. We narrowed it down to 2 parts. I opened up the panel on the washer where all the controls are (only 4 screws). Inside the panel was a diagram of the washer. We thought it would most likey be the Water level Pressure Switch. I found the part right away and removed it, I removed two connectors. It was really easy.
We ordered the part online and it came really quick (within two days). I installed the new part(Water level pressure switch) and tested it. The washer worked perfect and did not overflow. We tested it again with a load of laundry. Everything was good.
We saved a lot of time and money by fixing it ourselves. We did not have to wait around all day for a repair man and the part was under $30.00. I am happy the way it all turned out.

First removed front washer access panel.
Next: removed top panel torx screws and disconnected lid switch wiring connector
Next: removed washer top/lid
Next: removed inoperative lid switch (two phillips head screws)
Next: installed new lid switch and screws
Next: installed washer top and connected lid switch wire connector
Next: installed control panel and screws
Next: tested installation
Next: installed front washer access panel
Easy repair. FYI, Parts Select had best price and part arrived within two days of ordering! Highly recommend them for your parts.

I took off the cover behind the selector knobs and looked for the part that looked like the part I ordered. I unplugged a wire, took off the little hose, then twisted the part free. Twisting it free and twisting the new one back on was the hardest part, I even bled all over the machine from a cut I got while twisting! Then you plug the wire back in, there's only one way it will go, and put the little hose back on. I think it took less than 10 minutes.

First I removed the agitator with a belt. Then I removed the nut with a wrench. The Agitator coupli was smooth on the inside so I knew that was the problem. I got the new part, slid it into place. Tightened the new bolt and replaced the Agitator component with a quick push downwards. Easy!

Removed front cover, lifted lid. Unnapped the broken tub cover pulling the tub forward to allow the old cover to clear the rear of the housing/top. Installed the new tub cover by once again doing the same thing and carefully snapping it into place. Reconnected the rubber sping offloads, lowered the top and reinstalled the front cover..ready to run.

With the symptoms (go from one cycle to next instead of stopping, wouldn't spin and drain sometimes, etc.) the only common element was the "brains"- the timer. I unplugged the washer, removed 4 screws at the top of the washer and removed the dial handle retaining clip with needle nose pliers. Then I unplugged the 1 electrical connection, and removed the timer and popped the new one in. I plugged the electrical back in, reversed the process, and washer repair was completed in less than 30 minutes.

Part Select inclusion of parts diagram helped determine which part was broken, and how to disassemble just what was necessary. I was planning to open up the control panel to get inside, which was not necessary. Assembly was simple for the same reason. Sometimes, it does help to read the "manual" first....

- Troubleshot fill valve first. OK
- Followed leads to temperature selector switch.
- Checked resistance and live voltage at switch.
- Determined switch had failed on "hot" side.

1. SECURED POWER
2. Removed four torx screws on top of dashboard.
3. Removed six sheet metal screws from dashboard back.
4. Removed 4 leads from bad switch (one at a time).
5. Placed leads on new switch (one at a time).
6. Removed existing switch.
7. Installed new wired switch.
8. Re-installed dashboard back and top screws.
9. Op-test sat.