S210 - Instructions

Reviewed your website for problem symptoms for top loading washers not agitating and possible solutions. Purchased the lid switch wiring harness. All I needed was a painters 1" putty knife, wire cutters, Philips head screwdriver, (2) electrical connectors (crimping type), crimping tool, and electrical tape. Very easy installation and problem was solved. Recommendation, the wiring harness should come with electrical connectors (crimping type). The installation video on your website was a big plus in making this small project a success

Basically, I just followed the instructions in the video that is posted on this sight. It went off without a hitch. Removed the screws from the control panel, lifted it up and out of the way. Then I used the putty knife to release the clips that hold the front panel in place and then removed the top of the washer. Pretty easy from there to swap out the dampening straps and reassemble the washer. Saved a lot of money doing it myself.

Drain tub. remove 2 hose clamps and hoses. R&R 2 screws that hold pump.

pulled off cup on top of agataor. scrwed off nut. pulled off agatator. flipted up side down. took off agatator bell wich is on the bottom of the agator. sliped on bell. put agatator back on and scrwed on nut. dont reamber the size of the nut.sorry. put cap on and your done.

It was almost a complete tear down. Most difficult part was discivering how to remove the front panel. Slip a putty knife between the top and front covers. push and depress the spring tab on each side. The left hand nut on the hub was difficult. I had to get a neighbor to hold a large pair of pliers while I put a pipe wrench on the nut and hit it with a 2 lb. hammer in order to break it loose. Puting it back together do not forget to reconnect the level sensing hose to the level selector, I did. Machine will not perform without it. You can do it! I did.

Took front panel off the washer and found the pump working but no water drained from the tub. Took the motor off the washer by removing the two 10mm screws and attaching hoses. Decided to take the motor apart and found the propeller shaft has broken off inside the pump. Ordered new motor from Partselect and replaced it. Washer is working fine now.

Tub seal was found completely broken. Replaced it.
Then replaced tub bearing, tub bearing washer, shaft & mode shifter assembly and 6-rib drive belt.
Reassembled and tried, more quieter and like new machine.

Loosening tub nut was a challenge as it was bit corroded, use of WD40 was a great help.
Knowledge from you tube was a great help.

I pulled the old knob off and put the new one on.

Went to PartSelect website, troubleshot the problem I was having for the model washer I have. Ordered part, once it arrived, I had it installed and all back together in less than 30 minutes. Washer has been running with no problems since the repair. PartSelect is awesome!

The first attempt to fix the problem did not turn out so well. I replaced the tub bearing, split ring, tub bearing washer and the hub washer. After reassembly and testing, the loud airplane noise was still present during the spin cycle
Then I ordered and replaced the mode shifter shaft assembly and, since I was going to disassemble again, also ordered a new 6-rib belt. Once reassembled and tested, it was quieter than when it was when brand new, according to my wife.
Parts came in very quickly and the tutorials/youtubes were spot on.

We pulled up diagrams online and read a lot about the repairs. Four screws on top took off the electrical panel. Two clips hidden under the front of the top panel released the front panel. We followed the clear tube up to the water level pressure switch. We disconnected the previous switch, and connected the new one, one wire at a time. We tested and found that the water now stopped filling. Put the washer back together - done! Cost - $30 and 1/2 a hour total vs. calling a repair person.

watched the video, and it was simple!

Remove four screws which held the front cover of the washer. Dropped the cover down to expose the temp. switch. Turned the switch 1/8 turn counterclockwise which removed the switch from the cover. Pulled of the four pigtail wire leads and then installed the new switch in reverse order. Very easy!!

Just used hands to pry open the old agitator from the washer. If one angle does not work try another and go in a clockwise direction. The new agitator had a new coupling at the bottom, so I needed something to push it out from the top, found a long metal rod and easily pushed it down and out. Verified that new coupling was exactly the same as the old one. The old one was good so I just pushed the new agitator down on the old coupling and it worked fine.

1) Unplug empty washing machine
2) Remove switch panel with star screw driver
3) Gently remove ground, two prong connector, and the water tubing from the water level pressure switch
4) From the front of the washing machine switch panel, pull water level switch knob straight off
5) Apply pressure to tin metal middle that holds the pressue switch in place so that the pressure switch can be rotated out of switch panel
6) Twist pressure switch off of the switch panel clockwise (from the front of the washing machine)
7) Set old pressure switch to the side
8) Place new pressure switch in tin groves and snap into place (the middle tap that you applied pressure to lock the pressure switch back into place)
9) Connect ground, two prong connector, and the water tubing to the pressure switch
10) Close washing machine panel and screw in all of the star screws
11) Push pressure switch knob back onto the pressure switch after aligning the hole to the rod