RB1005XYW2 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

The only problem we had was hanging on to the small screws that held the element up. No power screw drivers, so it took a little while to keep a hold of those screws. Considering we are 87 and 84 we feel great that we were able to replace both the bottom element and the broiler. I like the stove, and preferred not to shop for a new one. "Thanks for prompt great service and the video helped. Patty Montag

Simple to unscrew the 2 screws holding the element to the back of the oven. Unclip the wires.

Unplugged the range, took the bad element out, and inserted the new one. Plugged the range back in. It worked fine....

First, turn off the breaker to the oven, then turn off the service disconnect to the whoe house. I play safe.) Open the door, pull out the oven racks to allow space. Using a Phillips screw driver, unscrew the screws near the front of the oven to loosen the element. Using both hands, pull the element straight out of the holes in the back of the oven, where you will find electric wires attached to them. Pull the ends of the element off the wire connectors. Throw it away. Get you new element, attach the element ends to the connectors. Raise it up to the top of the oven and screw the screws back in to the holes in the top of the oven. You are finished. (The only reason this took me 30 minutes is because I am an old 79 year old granny and can't bend so well, or see so well. I had to use a little acrylic paint on my finger tips to mark the screw holes, it was taking too long to find them the old way, by feel.) GG

Four screws hold the broiler element. I removed the two at the top, then removed the two screwed to the back keeping the element in place. I slowly pulled the element forward and used alligator clips to keep the wire connectors from falling back behind the oven. I disconnected the wires from the broken element and replaced it with the new element. I removed the alligator clips. I screwed the two screws on the back and the two on top and I was finished. Problem solved.

Removed the light cover - unscrew the bulb - place the gasket on the base of the light cover - replace the bulb - replace the light cover

Unscrewed 4 screws holding element. Disengaged one wire, but 2nd one was separated while pulling through rear wall. Could not grasp the wire from the front. Then unscrewed 4 screws along sides of oven to pull casing away from wall cavity. Sat oven on a box while unscrewing 12 rear panel screws. Pulled wire through from back into oven. (Didn't need to do this because new element extended through the rear wall to access from back. Could have reattached wires to new element from the rear, but didn't realize this soon enough.)....two days later reinstalled new broiler element reattaching wires inside the oven and replacing 4 screws holding element in the oven. To replace the back panel I had to lay oven on its face so the holes on back of would fit with the rear panel. Put 12 screws back on. Then pushed oven back into wall cavity and put 4 screws holding oven in place. It is now working!

Cut power off to oven in fuse panel...Removed door from oven, had to use flat edge screwdriver to slide hinge locks into place, Removed all oven grates, Removed left side and right side attachment screws from element, removed burned out element and unhooked wires from burnt element, reconnected wires to replacement element, reinstalled attachment screws, reinstalled oven grates, reinstalled door... Turned power back on to oven, turned oven on to bake, oven heated right up! Easy repair...

Unscrewed the two screws holding the rear plate of the element. Pulled the element out far emough to reach the plugs on each side. Disconnected the plugs and plugged in the new element. Put the screws back in and it was ready to go. This was the second replacement in the last five years.

I very simply replaced the gasket where it belonged and I was good to go!

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

turn off the oven breaker - unscrew both sides of element, pull through holes & remove wire ends. Replace with new element, reversing procedure - turn on breaker & you're good to go.

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

Turned off power to unit onswitch box. Used Phillips screwdriver to take out old unit.Could come out at least 3"with connecting wires with clips on their ends. Disconnected clips ,connected clips to new unit and put back in place. Redid screws. Turned on power.... Wa-La ... Works Great. Thank You Very Much for your service.

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.