PNR22LSEFES General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

After removing the screws, the front of the dishwasher easily came off. I put 2 screws back in to hold the control panel in place. I did not want that to dangle while replacing the part. The part came off easily after removing the screws. Everything went together easy.

Pull out the old, died gasket. Clean out track that holds gasket. insert new gasket.

Used Phillips screwdriver to undo brackets that keep dishwasher in place. Pulled out dishwasher from underneath the counter. Placed hinge arm in spring, hooked spring onto clip, placed hinge arm in clip. Put back dishwasher under the counter and screwed in place. Took all of 15 minutes. Saved 185.00 for service call.

Repaired the soap dispenser.

The replacement dishwasher basket easily fit in my dishwasher. Easy to order. Quick delivery. Highly recommended.

Took out 2 screws that held machine in cabinet. Pulled out dishwasher about 4 inches. removed old latch and disconnected electric connection. Put in new latch, reconnected electric connection, replaced screws, pushed machine back in cabinet, replaced 2 screws that hold machine in place. Works like new!

First, drain as much water as possible using a shop vac or siphon. Unscrew two plastic lugs and food screen to release the metal *disk* found inside the dishwasher at the bottom. Then, remove the grey retainer ring found under the food screen.
Using the nut driver, remove two screws from the white plastic retainer ring at bottom the flood switch.
I used pliers to grip the ring to take it out.
**Dry everything in the "well" where the flood switch sits.**
Now, remove the bottom front cosmetic panel. This exposes the underside of the appliance. Locate the flood switch wire underneath and gently pull down the small black plastic tab which holds the wires in place. This allows more movement to make your job a little easier!
Pull up on the flood switch and simply unplug it and swap in your new switch! Replace everything as you found it, don't over-tighten your screws, and make your kids load that sucker! Hope this helps, and have a beautiful day!

Watched the video, and followed the directions. Although my machine had some slight differences, the repair went pretty much per the video. Got all connections back where they belonged, cleaned up the insides a little while had the door parts separated, then buttoned it all back up, ran a cleaning solution thru empty washer, let it dry then started filling with dishes and ran the wash cycle the next day when full. All is well.

shut off water. removed lower panel disconnected power removed supply hose and outlet hose. disconnected electrical plug from valve. Un bolted valve from frame. removed elbow from valve inlet. installed elbow on new valve using Teflon tape. reinstalled valve to frame. connect hoses + electric plug to new valve. turn water on check for leaks. reconnect power. run dish washer check for leaks & popper operation. reinstall lower panel.

So easy, even I was able to do it. Slide tabs back on defective basket and remove both sides, then slide the tabs onto new basket and place in dishwasher. All Done!

Bought replacement rack transferred all the accessories from the old to the new. Mostly snap-in-place.

My heating coil was not working so naturally I thought I needed a new coil and ordered one accordingly. During the time it took to ship to me, I did more research and people suggested testing the coil with and ohmmeter for resistance as often times the coil is fine and it is the flood switch that is the problem. I got an ohmmeter and checked the old coil and it returned readings that were just fine (btw 15-30), so I returned the coil and ordered this flood switch.

Anyone reading this debating between buying the coil and switch can save themselves a lot of trouble/time/money by removing the coil and testing it first.

The installation of the flood switch is fairly simple. There's a great video on Youtube for it (titled "GE Dishwasher not Drying Dishes - How to Replace Bad Flood Switch:), so I won't walk through the step-by-step on it.

However, one word of advice is to be careful when installing so that you don't let the o-ring on the switch slide down the connector/wire once you connect them or you'll get a slow leak into the catch pan at the bottom.

Also, if this if your first repair on a GE Dishwasher then get to know the unit while you have it pulled out. It won't be your last repair based on my experience...

Used teflon tape around new 3/8 elbow. Re-installed valve in originals postion. Connected supply hose and reconnected electrical to valve.

I had a shut off water supply shut off shut under my sink. That is where I shut the water off for the dishwasher. I knew it was for the dishwasher ,because it follow the line, and could see it was going to the washer. Then I went down stairs in the basement. Opened my breaker box, and found the breaker for the dish washer marked dish washer, and put in the off position. When I was still up stairs I opened dish washer , and inside at the top was two screws holding the dishwasher to the counter top. Those two screws turned out to be the exact size of just about every screw I ended up having to unscrew on this machine. So at the time I was in the basement turning off breaker, I went to the garage to gather up tools. Take the two screws that are screwed to the counter top. Then I layed on the floor, and at the bottom of the dish washer there is a panel on the front of the machine with screws attaching it. Take those screws out. Pull off cover. Now get a flash light so you can see. They're adjustable feet that the dishwasher are being leveled by. Those feet need to most likely be adjusted down so you can the machine pulled out, and make it possible to work on. now you can you can pull it out, but watch that water supply line does not get hung up, or electrical wires. Once the machine is pulled out there is another cover on the front that I took off. Four screws hold it on. Now you can get to the part to fix it. The other thing you need to know is after taking off the valve and taking off the old 90 fitting. It will need cleaned up. When you put it on the new shut off valve use pipe dope or thread tape so it doesn't leak. Good luck.

Turned off the power at the main box. Removed the six phillips screws and two bottom hex screws holding the front panel. Removed the two solenoid wires on the old dispenser (Label wire polarity). Removed the eight screws holding the old soap dispensor and took it out. Cleaned the area around the hole. Laid down a bead of silicon caulk around the hole edges. Placed the new dispenser in the hole and replaced the eight screws (do not over tighten). Replaced the two wires on the dispenser solenoid (check polarity). Replaced the front cover (Do not over tighten. Turned on the power and job complete.