PNR22LSEFES General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

When new gasket arrived almost two weeks after it was sent out from Green Bay, I took out old gasket, marking which side was in and which out.
Then, with hands, fit new gasket in place making sure it was centered.
No leaking; it worked.
Thanks.

Simply removed old gasket by hand, lined up center of new gasket (white dot was printed on the center of new gasket) with the tub latch and pressed new gasket into place. We have used the dishwasher about a dozen times since and hasn't leaked a drop.

I placed the missing cap into the dispenser.

This was simple. I took the door apart with a portable screw driver. Then I detached the wires and unscrewed the old module and replaced it. I then put the door back together, loaded the dishwasher and it cleaned my dishes. Even for this `old dog' it was easy.

The installation video that is on the website with the part is very helpful & easy to follow. The wires that attach to the heating element & the nuts that hold it in place are actually located a few inches off the ground so I didn't need to tip the machine over to pull them out & unscrew the nuts. All I had to do was unscrew the screws that hold the dishwasher in place under the counter next to the sink, pull it out & was able to reach the wires underneath it.
The actual repair took me less than 30 minutes, I marked it as 30-60 because during the somehow the water line going to the dishwasher had come loose from under the sink (not at the dishwasher) & because of this I had to stop midway to deal with some loose water & tighten things back up. I would recommend following the video, there really isn't much more to add that would be helpful.

See GE web site for repair instructions. Take out screws at top of door. Slide unit out there is a spring on each side of the door just look at the good one for details. Easy fix. About 30 minutes.

The sump was very clogged with caulk like crud that we think was a chemical reaction from soap that was used the first two years. When I first started troubleshooting, the sump seemed to be the problem, so I replaced that. There was a small hose on the sump that was broken so it made sense to replace it anyhow.

When that didn't help I put the dishwasher into service mode and observed that there just wasn't enough water to spin the sprayer. Therefore it was a water quantity problem, which can be caused by either the Water Inlet Valve or the Flood Switch.

I ordered both the Water Inlet Valve and the Flood Switch, just in case. I replaced the valve first and when that worked I did not install the switch.

Installation was performed with the dishwasher still inserted in the cabinet. If you have big hands, pull the dishwasher out. With sockets and nut drivers, I was able to remove the assembly. After pulling it out enough to clear the dishwasher, I was able to get a screwdriver on the outlet side clamp and a wrench on the inlet side hose.

My old valve had a 90° elbow on it and that was difficult to remove. Installing the elbow on the new valve was just as bad. The valves don't have enough clearance to get a wrench on them to keep them from turning while the elbow is tightened.

TIP: Take a picture of the valve before removing/disconnecting anything. I don't know if the electrical connector can attach either way but I made sure to put it back on exactly the same way it was.

Had to trouble shoot to isolated the true fault condition. Checked heating element was good
Researched symptoms on YouTube
Removed and inspected float switch part
Ordered and replaced part.

Looked upm the problem it said door wasn.t closed so cause was the door latch. put in the new one no change so I bought a new dishwasher

I removed the old roller wheels and the new roller wheels snapped together and the simple instructions made the repair quick and simple..

Followed the instructions on the video, it was pretty straight forward. It was helpful to know what to expect before hand like removing accumulated water in the drain before removing the flood switch so as not to have that water drain under the dishwasher. Knowing to have a nut driver with magnetic tip was helpful in removing and reinserting the screws. all in all it was pretty easy repair.

I replaced the Flood Switch Part Number: WD21X10519.
I found that be removing the bottom front cover under dishwasher door, there was a small black plastic clamp holding up the wiring cable. By disconnecting the clamp, it gave me a few more inching of wire inside the machine, which made disconnecting old flood switch easier. It also help in installing the new flood switch. Then finally i reinstall the clamp cable under the machine to finish the job.

Removed kick panel and pulled out the unit from cabinet carefully. Turned off water and power. Removed the water feed and used an aluminum pie tin line a low-profile drip pan to catch the extra water and used a scrap towel to clean the dust and extra water spilling out. Used sockets and wrench to remove the old inlet and screwed out the housing to examine the old inlet. No real way to clean it. Honestly, I don’t see a reason for the filter. There’s no way to replace it and it’s not easy to change out anyway. The particles were so small they could have passed through and not harmed the system. A better and more practical place for any filter would be just in front of the inlet that could just pop in every 2-3 years as needed preventatively in 5 minutes. Anyway, I reassembled and tested. Water flow was great. I think it cleans better too because the hot water fills the plastic reservoir faster and stays hot to clean more effectively.

Followed directions on YouTube

The repair was easy. Removed all the screws from the inside door panel, approx. 11. Watch out for that last screw as there isn't anything else holding the outside panel, inside panel and control panel together other than those screws. I then unplugged the old dispenser backed out another 6 screws and replaced the old dispenser with the new one. Put it all back together within about a half hour.