PLES389DCC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

First you must disconnect power by throwing the circuit breaker off.You need to pull knobs from cook top. check underside to see if it is mounted to counter top, mine was not. Then raise the cook top and support bottom with 2x2's. Mine had three main screws in front, one on the sides and two in the back. The other thing you need to do is loosen the metal plates that have two screws on each plate. Three plates in front, two on each side and three in back. Once these are loosen, you can lift the stove top up to reveal the indicator lights. I found it was easier to support the top with a pan or something while working on it. Replace your indicator light and put everything back together.. It really wasn't to bad.

Googled the problem and found Oven Temperature Sensor and Main Terminal Block to be the most likely problems. Turned out to be neither. No parts were needed. Oven has a thermal overload switch on the rear upper left. Thermal overload needed re-set. To do so you have to remove the oven, remove the back and press the red button on thermal overload. Biggest challenge was figuring out how to remove the oven. Even with the installation manual it was not easy to fgure out. The instructions are misleading. You need a special tool. I used two hacksaw blades as a substitute, and slid them in to release the clips. Once you figure out how to get the oven out the rest is simple.

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

Drawings on web site somewhat hard to read, resulting in more
disassembly than actually necessary. Turns out, simply removing the
threaded plastic securing rings around the bases of the controls frees
up the faceplate, and allows access to the phillips screws that hold down
the bracket. Then it's a simple matter to replace the control unit by
swapping out the leads one at a time from old to new. Be careful when
re-attaching those plastic securing rings, they can cross-thread pretty
easily.

Phillips screwdriver used to remove 2 screws at top left in oven. Pulled thermostat out until I could get to the connector. Used pliers to hold wire, reconnected new plug , threaded it back into back of oven and reattached the two screws.
Saved $150 on a service repair call.

unscrew the sensor inside the oven; took off the back of range to access harness of sensor; the replacement part harness did not match up to the original, so we stripped the clip from the end of the part and also the end of the harness in should clip into. after joining the wires together with ceramic wire nuts we tested the oven to make sure all worked AND IT DID!

Very easy just had to pull the wire up that holds it secure.

Extremely easy. Two screws and electric connection that had easy pop on-off connection.

I followed the instructions from the lady taking my order she talked me through the steps

Replaced the dual infinite switch behind the panel. The wires were easily matched, even though the switch looked a little different. Works perfectly now.

Turn off circuit breaker
Open oven remove two oven racks
Position flash light
Remove two Phillips head screws that hold the element in place
Gently slide out element until you locate the two small wires
Gently Detach the two small wires from the back of the burned out element
Position the new element in the bottom of the oven and attach the two small wires to the back of the new element
Gently slide the element back in place and replace the two Phillips screws that hold the element in place
Make certain the new element is lying flat on the bottom of the oven
Replace the two oven racks
Turn on the circuit breakers and test the oven

Unplug the oven (very important). Unscrew the bad element and screw in the new one. Plug oven back in.

Followed instructions on website. Went perfectly.

My friend used a tester to determine where each wire was supposed to connect to. I'm not sure what he did with the extra connections.
Bottom line is this part should work but you need an expert to do it for you because it's, like I said, not exactly like the one to be replaced.

The original instructions were to replace burner and plug wires back in the same plug they came from.
The problem is that the plug order had changed between parts.
Use a pencil to highligt the plug numbers on both new and old plugset, to fint the new plug positions. And need to reorient one of the burners to allow existing wires to reach.