PB975KM1CC General Electric Range - Instructions
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Broke the glass on our oven door due to cold water spilled while it was hot
First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.
Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.
For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.
We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.
Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.
For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.
We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.
Parts Used:
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Dagmar from WESTMINSTER, CO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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burner would switch to full power randomly
Remove the top back panel to expose the switch. Remove the switch knob & mounting bezel and then unscrew the 2 mounting screws from the front. Replace the wires one by one and follow the enclosed directions in the event that this is an upgrade for an older switch. Remount the switch from the front and replace the back panel.
Parts Used:
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Richard from SIMSBURY, CT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Dual burner only had hidden setting.
Removed old switch, put metal jumper from old switch to new one and connected wires to the new one . Reinstalled. Works great.
Parts Used:
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Steve from HENDERSON, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
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oven was not getting up to temp
Once I opened up the back of the range, the sensor wires where there and burnt just like your info said. One nut to take off in the oven and the sensor came right out and the new one went right in. The oven works great, cooked the turkey today. The worst part of the repare was the cleaning behind and under the range, it hasn't moved since it was put in 6 years ago. Very pleased with PS.
Parts Used:
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walter from townshend, VT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
0 of 1 people
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Broken Probe Sensor
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Michael from Tucson, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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F2 error when oven was heating up, along with a beeping noise and then it shut off
Unplugged oven, turned off breaker, took cover off back of oven, removed old sensor by disconnecting in back of oven and undoing screw inside oven. Pulled old one out replaced with new took 15min. Cost me less than $20. Parts Select rocks! Even received part in two days with standard shipping!
Parts Used:
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Lori from Paris, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
0 of 1 people
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Two burners were not working
I got someone to look at the stove. They told me what I needed. I looked all over the Internet and couldn't find the part. One guy told me just to buy a new stove top because mine was an antique. It still looked good and two burners were still working. I didn't give up. I found the part on partselect bsite and was thrilled. It shipped fast and was exactly the right part. Now my stove works like new.
Parts Used:
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Terri from Leesburg, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 10 people
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burner quit working
opened the oven door an took 2 screws out that hold the stove top down. lifted an propted it up an replaced the burner. pretty simple job just plug the wires in just like the old burner
Parts Used:
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William from Newport News, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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The biggest burner does not get hot. It goes red and then black very soon.
#1 loose two screws and lift up the cook top; #2 disconnect the burner coils by unplugging three connectors; #3 disconnect the switch attached to the burner by unplugging three connectors; #4 loose two screws to unmount the burner; #5 do the reverse to mount/connect the burner, and close the cook top.
Parts Used:
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Xiang from Cary, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Oven slow to heat up
Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.
Parts Used:
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Joe from Harkers Is., NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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The oven temperature could not be controlled
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
Parts Used:
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Keith from Annapolis, MD
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
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Only inner burner would heat
Pretty easy. Pull oven out from wall and un-plug. Open oven door and look up. Find two small sheet metal screws and remove. Remove two retainer clips, un-plug triple haliant element and install new part. Re-install retainer clips, replace screws and you are done.
Parts Used:
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Frank from Northport, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Convection fan came loose from shaft
Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."
Parts Used:
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Thomas from Albuquerque, NM
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
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f-2 or f-3
remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in
Parts Used:
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daniel from gap, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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My upper oven, lower heating element burnt out .
Shut off power to oven. Removed upper oven door and cooking racks. Removed 2, 1/4" bolt, pulled element away from oven back wall and unplugged the 2 wires that went into the heating element and removed the element. Reinstalled the new element by plugging in the 2 wires to the element, pushing the wires back through the back of the oven and reinstalled the 2, 1/4" bolts. Reinstalled the cooking racks and oven door. The complete from start to finish time took about 15 minutes.
Parts Used:
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John from Salem, NH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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