MHWE950WR02 Maytag Washer - Instructions

I followed the instructions and it was surprisingly simple. Glad I didn't call the "handy-man" since it was easy to do it myself as a handy-woman!

Took old one off and put the new one on. Was very easy. Hardest part was disconnecting hose clamps, which was still easy

Washed three loads and it was ok but then it stopped draining again. I don't know what to do.

Read the instructions provided by PartSelect.....and with a bit of patience I installed all four bolts so the washer's inside agitator was not damaged in shipping. I highly recommend that anyone who is moving/storing or shipping their washer that you find the correct shipping bolts according to your model and make and install them prior to moving your appliance.

Unplug the power first.If you can lean the washer bank and support it with something underneath to make it easier to work on.Removed the 3 bolts at the bottom panel underneath the front door. Pump is right there in front. Unplug the power connection first,you can also remove the wiring that is right in front of the pump so it will be out of the way. remove the pump from it mounting grommets and pull it out a Little so you can get to the hoses at the back of the pump. Using pliers to pull of the hose clamps you can pull off the hoses. Now you can remove the pump out. Do everything in reverse and that's it. I found it to be easier than I thought and took less then 20 mins.

Took the front panel below tub and above pedestal off washer. Removed pump and found coins in the strainer. Removed them thinking they may be causing the problem. Put everything back together and tried again. Washer still wouldn't drain. Unplugged it and ordered a new pump. Installed pump after removing the plug and draining water from washer. Replaced pump with new one and washer works like new.

I replaced the pump thinking this was the most likely cause of the problem. The pump is easy to access and get to. The reviews were helpful. The hose clamps were difficult to get back in place especially the one from the washer drain to the pump (need wide-jaw pliers). Now that I have seen the system work, the pump was not bad and the water from the drain still smells bad. I just ordered the filter 8181683, which looks like the only other thing that would prevent the water from draining completely. The drain hose is not blocked.

took front panel off. Pump is right there easy to work on. Used pliers to take 2 hose clamps off. Used star screw driver to take 2 screws off of pump and removed old pump. The Assemblely goes the same way but the drain hose coming off the tube is not very easy to get back on. Hose is flimsey and the stem, on the end of the drain pump isnt long enough to keep hose on while tring to slide hose clamp back on.

Had to open the panels, remove the old drain pump and install the new one. Remember if there is water still in the hose to either take it out with a wet/dry vacuum or put towels under neither to sook the water. 15 minutes of work and your done.

The difficult part was getting the water from the washer without making a huge mess. I used a shop vac loosened the cover on the filter/strainer assembly use the shop vac to suck up the water before spills all over. if the tub is full I dumped my shop vac twice total. 1 Remove pedestal drawer 2 removed lower cover to expose mechanicals and pump assembly 3 vac out the water by using above procedure. 4 rotate hose clamps to a position where you can get the needle vice grip on them/remove hose clamps. 5 lift cover exposing electrical connections on the pump assembly depress tab slide connector out. 6 remove 1 torx head screw securing pump to base of washer. 7 remove pump assembly. 8 Reinstall in reverse of above instruction. I also took the lower tub hose off and washed, bleached along with hot water to. clean it

I had replaced the flowmeter, but that didn't solve the problem, so I ordered the hot/cold solenoid fill part. Other than ONE screw that was unique -- the back retaining screws were nut driver screws, the one retaining screw was a torx which, of course, couldn't be seen unless you pulled the washer all the way out. Unscrewed that, unhooked the hose clamp with pliers and worried the hose off, removed the four electrical connections (which were TIGHT) and replaced the part. Turned on the water and was dismayed to get a d/l error code. After some colorful language learned from my drill sergeant 40 years ago, I realized that was "door lock" and closed the door tightly. Ran great and the Mrs. thinks I'm a hero.

First I want to acknowledge Parts Select for their prompt delivery(received parts in less than two days)and their unbeatable prices(approximately 1/3 less than two local appliance repair/parts shops). Repair was straight forward a simple swap of the pump and I saved quite a few dollars.Thanks Parts Select.Any future appliance parts needs will be purchased here.

Very limited access to the bellow clamp. Found it easier to first remove washer front panels (8 screws total), providing ready access to R&R the bellow. 40 minutes tops.

I removed the top 3 screws on the rear, removed soap dispenser, removed screw in front corner at soap dispenser,pry off control panel with flat head screwdriver lay on top, removed spring around bellows at door opening, remove 4screws holding door assembly, disconnect 3 molded plugs serving door lock, you will need to hold door while you loosen bellows clamp.Reverse process note: soap dispenser tube can be removed to clean without any tools. It is some much easier when you remove the front door assembly.T-20 torx screwdriver, 9/32 socket Theirs a you tube video also.ghw

Found it impossible to get the bellow off the machine. Removed the front spring. Even tried to but off the bellow. No luck. Called repairman. He had to take off the front panel, door panel, and the top of the machine before he could remove the back spring/clamps.