MHWE200XW00 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Only needed a pair of pliers for the clamps on the hoses connected to the pump. Removed the old pump ( no tools needed) and reinstalled the hoses. Works like a charm!

After further investigation I realized that the original dispenser hose from the soap bin to the inner tip was the cause of the leak. Before this repair, I replaced the bellows. And as part of that replacement process you have to remove the washer dispenser hose from the inner tub so that I could complete the bellows installation. However when I put everything back together the old washer dispenser hose was leaking terribly. This was fixed easily with a new hose and an 1-1 3/4 inch hose clamp. I found an installation video that allows you to come from the top down to replace this hose but for my model of washer and because the drier was stacked on top, I took apart the front of the washer since I learned from a different video how to do this in order to install the bellows. No more leaking at all with the new hose.

Pretty straight forward , It is a tight work are especially laying on your stomach. To make installation easier I recommend buying a 3-4 inch hose clamp instead of trying to use the old pinch style clamp. You will only need a zip tie if you reuse the existing clamps. remember to remove the plastic ball from the old rubber hose into the new hose.

Checked for 120 V AC at pump connector. It was present . Pump was hot. Ordered new pump. Changing the pump is a piece of cake. Just tilt machine back and rest on a brick. Remove 3 5/16th screws . Disconnect 2 hoses and 1 plug. Took 10 minutes tops. Back in business.

Ordered a new one. It was here on the second day. Lined it up, gave it a slight hit to snap it in place and I was ready to go. Didn't even miss a laundry day. I'm 70 years old and I had no problem doing the repair.

I followed the video that accompanied the parts order confirmation. The replacement of the two parts, bellows and hose, were pretty straightforward. The job took a little less than an hour with little aggregation.

Boyfriend followed directions and YouTube and I’m sooooo grateful!! My door shuts easily.. I love my machine and my man with your directives and your parts made my magic happen!!

Removed top and front lower panels remove door panel.Remove ring from boot seal don’t damage seal.Replace hose,reassemble.Job is a lot easier if you purchase tool to re-install door ring seal.Tool is available from several sites on the net.

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

This was an easy fix . PartSelect was quick and had all the info I needed to repair my washer. Plus shipping was super fast. Thanks

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

removed retaining ring on front gasket, pulled gasket back, took out door lock latch, unhooked wires, then reversed method to replace.

Turn off water and power. Pull top off first, then bottom front kick plate. Take all the screws out of the soap tray. Disconnect the front panel from the controller, then the upper front panel comes off, but be careful with it as it is plastic tabbed. Pull upper metal support brace off. Detach the door lock BEFORE you pull the door off (two torx screws). Take a flat head screwdriver and release the spring holding the bellows to the front door/panel, then fold bellows into washer a bit. Remove front door/panel. Back bellows clamp is Phillips, loosen and remove bellows. reverse steps to put back together, but run machine in rinse/spin with top and front lower kick panel off to make sure of no leaks. Also good time to check pump lint screen for junk in it too.

First, I watched the video again just to make sure I had a firm grasp of the task ahead. I gathered up the tools and proceeded to begin. First obstacle: getting the washer tilted back enough to put the blocks under the front feet. The washer was sitting inside a square water pan with a drain connected directly under the middle of the washer. Therefore, the water pan did not move and I could only get the washer moved out far enough to 'barely' put the blocks underneath. Second obstacle: a clump of hair had gathered at the bottom portion of the door unnoticed and caused a slow leak from the bellows. This leak dripped down and rusted out two of the three screws. I had to use a socket set to get the screws out. Third obstacle: getting the pump removed from the bottom of the washer. With the drip, the pump had stuck to the bottom of the washer. Trying hard not to get cut on the sheet metal bottom, I pushed and pushed and pulled until finally the pump let loose. From that point on..smooth sailing just like the video. Washer fixed!

Replaced the pump assembly. The different type of clamp supplied in the kit was very helpful.