MET1041ZAS1 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

pulled appliance away from wall and unplugged the electrical cord and then used putty knife to pop up the top. Then removed the screws that held the front in place. Disconnected the wire to the switch on the door and then front on a rug and used acetone and scraper to remove the old glue and felt. Cleaned the area thoroughly and apply the glue that come with the kit an give it a couple of seconds to get tacky and then applied the felt and used clothes pins to hold in place for about an hour and then put back together and let it set over night before using. Had good success and it solved my problem.

After struggeling the most with lifting out the inner drum and then the wash drum. I realized when the job was complete a better way. 1. Take the top off the washer. 2. take the front off the washer. Then disconnect all wires and hoses from assembly One small hose on the tub and the pump hose at the bottom. 3. at the bottom of the overall assembly there are 3 braces holding the tub assembly with 2 springs on each brace. Go under and remove the springs and then lift the whole assembly out into the middle of the floor. 4. remove the top cap off of the agitator. 5. remove the agitator. 6. if you are lucky and the bolts are not seized in the block that holds the shaft remove the small steel block from the bell and remove the bell. 6. Slide the inner tub up and off the shaft and again if all goes well the outer wash tub should slip up off the shaft as well. 7. remove the drive belt from the motor and transmission.

Followed directions of another website...had to replace ball and socket joint that attached the drum to the back frame of the dryer...removed top outside metal cover of dryer to facilitate attaching ball/socket kit to the drum...this allowed us to secure the ball/socket kit to the drum without cross threading the screws...with the top of dryer removed this allows you to lift the drum to fit into the plastic bracket...dryer had been in use for over ten years before repair...extreme amount of lint debris throughout internal area of dryer...lint was everywhere...spent a large amount of time vacuuming lint...duct connection from lint trap to lint fan/impeller was very loose and over the years lint seeped out from connection...suggest using duct tape or wood/composite shims to hold the lint duct to the fan/impeller...make sure you remove lint from the back of drum crevice and around the area of the heating element for electric dryers...for sanity's sake this should be a two person job...for this repair we replaced the upper and lower drum felt strip, installed a complete and new ball/socket kit, replaced drum belt, and vacuumed and damp wiped the entire interior of the dryer...

replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine

I replaced the rear bearing assy. Thanks to all that sent in there stories. very helpful. But my problem was the breaker in breaker box. needless to say "check your outlet for proper voltage.First,before anything else." i had a bad breaker, had it replaced,with proper 30amp fuses.Dryer works fantastic..Thanks to all again for your input. Great Website...

I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.

Tilted the clothes washer back to provide easy access. Then after scrubbing the floor - which took most of the time of the repair, screwed out the broken leg and screwed in the new leg or SCREW. Easy peasey.

Purchased both the belt and idler pulley. Bought the idler pulley "to have it if it were needed" since it was only a $15 part.

Watched two videos provided on PartSelect for our model number with our symptoms. Both showed an easy access of idler pulley at the front of the washer. My emailed invoice also contained links to the video for each part.

Getting the panels off went exactly like the video. However, the idler pulley was nearly on the back side of the tub assembly/transmission and NOT easily accessed as shown in the video.

I replaced the belt and ran the washer without replacing the idler pulley. Since it performed very well agitated/spun I elected to avoid the daunting looking task of idler pulley replacement. Hung it up for "just in case" future use....again not hard to do at only $15.

Followed instructions for removal and installation.

This link provides clear simple instructions which I was able to use successfully.

So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

Just put the new one in the slot the old one was in

Opened top, removed front cover, removed belt, took out drum, replaced bearing on drum and bearing guide on back of dryer. Reinstalled drum and belt, then replaced drum glides and upper felt,let glue set with clamps over night.