MED6230HC4 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I took off the back panel off the dryer. The idler pulley could be accessed on the bottom. It was a bit cramped but not too tough to replace.

Determined via multimeter that either the thermostat or thermal fuse were not working, so ordered the kit (best value, contains both parts).Easiest access is from the rear, so removed rear panel and top of dryer (required) and also the vent tube since it was in the way. Unhooked wires from both parts, used socket to remove nuts holding each one on, put new ones in place, re-attached wires. Replaced vent tube, vacuumed entire inside of dryer (good idea). Put back/top back on and the dryer worked/heated perfectly immediately.

From the front, removed lower panel, tilted machine back at a 45 angle for ease to assess heater. 2 screws, removed old one .. hint. Take a picture of the wires,, Slide new one in,, I also changed the two thermostats while I was in there,, just because.. maybe a 1 hr job

Took back panel off, and it was really easy putting the new idler pulley in.

pull the back off and replace the pulley.

Disassemble dry. Put on new pulley wheel. Greased pulley wheel. Put dryer back together. Works great. Yours truly G.B.

Removed the old screen and simply put in the new one

With the instructional video the repair was very easy.

Very easy repair... The video was really helpful too. I was able to find a different video that was closer to our model. (Front Loader HE) It probably took me a little longer than needed but I took the time to shop-vac everywhere I could, since it was all easy to get to. I opted for next day shipping so the shipping charges were more than the part. Tools I used were: Cordless drill-screw driver, 1/4in. socket, Phillips head bit and needle nose pliers for the control panel connections. Thank you again for making this so easy. Saved us a lot money by not calling an appliance repair tech.

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

first of all there is no video for this model dryer (cabrio accu-dry) the main difference is that the console is removed by removing 3 screws across the back top of console then using putty knife release spring fastener on each side ,slide forward and lift. remove one screw at top of control board and remove from plastic mount,and unplug connecting wires.remove top of cabinet lifting up and forward. The rest of install is typical to other models. The back panel doesn't come off this model. You have to access everything from the front.

Followed your video for replacing the Tension Pulley, Drum Belt and Drum Rollers. Models were not exact, but instructions were very clear and detailed enough for a "computer geek" to do the repair myself (with some help from my wonderful wife). Live in Ohio, parts came from Kentucky and I had them the next day! The dryer is almost 10 years old. Running great now. Thank You!

unplugged the dryer and removed collapsable vent then we laid it on its back. took off the lower front face with a screwdriver ( just inserted in upper margin and it popped off) then removed a couple of screws and put the new element in replaced the screws and we cleaned all the old dust and lint from in the cabinet and replaced the front face. no problems.

Removed front panel located hearter elemement houseing
removed screw securing houseing to dryer chasis, disconected wireing harness- be carefull here there are three lines two for the thermostat and one for the element- you only need to disconect the one nearest the front of the unit, reove the screw holding the element to the houseing it sits in and pull out. instalation is reverse the directions to remove

First I unpluged the dryer from the electical power. I removed the 2 screws holding the bottom front panel. Then I saved a bit of time and effort. Instead of removing the bracket and pulling the whole unit out, I bent the metal plate in front of the heating element toward me. I unpluged the 2 wires from the plastic casing and removed the screw holding the heating element in place. Next I pulled out the old part and pluged in the new one then connected it in reverse order and bent the plate back up to protect the element. This was a very easy and inexpensive way to fix the dryer like new again. The hardest part was vacuuming and cleaning the bottom of the dryer. There was seven years of lint build up under there.